luvmy40

This may sound random RE: the thread title, but here goes. My '83 Standard seems to have every piece of added "Bling" available. The plastic is all busted in some one way or another, though it has all been repaired enough to be serviceable if not pretty. All the extra chrome is what makes this 36 year old bike look great fro 10 feet away. Random, Right? So here's the question; I am considering delininking the brakes simply for ease of maint. when I replace all of the 36 year old hydraulic hoses. The front MC will need to be upgraded in the process, unless I am mistaken. Is there a suitable upgrade MC that will fit with the chrome MC covers that are on the OEM MCs? Here is a picture of the bauble in question: I have always hated the way the bar mounted MCs look and Yamaha's are especially hideous in their natural state. One of the things I loved about the '81 XJ750RH, SECA was the front master cylinder being a remote(hidden), cable operated set up. Thanks for any input in advance.

I do recall that there is such a "kit" from one of our members. I would advise you to check with your local Yamaha dealer for shims. Mine is extraordinary in this aspect. They swap shims for free and have even fronted the shims to swap, cores to be returned later. They do this for my Venture and my XJ bikes. The tools are available from several sources. I bought one from a member here. I don't recall who.

I decided to stretch The Beast's legs a bit the other day(and impress the wife a bit too:cool:) So I wound her out in third gear to see where she'd red line. We went past a newer Gold Wing that had just pulled out onto the four lane thoroughfare at about 65 mph an climbing. When I looked at the tach and speedo a moment later we were at 7500 rpm and 95 mph. Now, I hadn't planned on taking her any faster but I saw the Wing creeping up on us in the rear view so I just had to shift into 4th and twist her tail. He gave up. No quarter asked or taken.

I thought it was illegal to shoot the state bird in Wisconsin!

Yep, been working for me for many years.

Don't all the gen 1 bikes have the cable junction box under the left side fairing? I thought this was genius when I found it the first time I pulled the carbs on The Beast. No need to fight the cable installation on the bike. The cables can be installed on the bench and then connected after reinstalling the carbs.

Well, around here $850 for a running Venture with a clean title in good cosmetic condition is a good deal. I just missed a deal on a non running '83 Royale in very good cosmetic condition for $500.00 I hesitated because the guy did not have a title and it was gone the next day.

The '83 standard model does not have the clock and stop watch buttons under the display, or the extra grey knob under the tach. My speedo also goes to 120. Possibly a later royale dash on a standard bike? Did the '83 Royale have the CASS system?

Sport bike look with graphics.

I've order quite a bit from them and never had a problem. I don't remember how quick the shipping was, but I always got what I ordered and do not recall any significant delays. Did you check the status of your order on their website?

It is legal in many states to lane split or ride the shoulder in stopped traffic, not so here. I actually just saw a normal afternoon highway scene for around here. That type of bumper to bumper jam would be running at 65+mph on a Friday around 6PM in Youngstown.

I must be missing something. What do I not want to see?

Cool Idea! But, $550.00 for something that should be replaced every 3-4 years? Unless they sell replacement foam innards, I doubt they will sell many.

Looks like a SECA Turbo:banana:

I always install a new Schrader core when I install a new tire. I also went with an angled valve stem on the rear wheel so it's easier to get the air chuck or pressure gauge on. I'll do the same on the front wheel next time I get new rubber.

I keep this set of ratcheting wrenches, https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/wrench/duralast-2-pcs-metric-ratcheting-wrench-set/951644_0 A folding metric hex key set, A six way screw driver, A 3/8" drive ratchet with a 10" extension, u-joint and spark plug socket, An extra long needle nose pliers, An air pump for he front suspension, An air pressure gauge, A flashlight, 4 used but serviceable spark plugs, A small roll of safety wire, A pack of grease cleaning wipes. All in a small Harbor Freight tool bag in the side bag. I should add a good knife, But I've always got at least one in my pocket. I also keep a set of LED head lamps in the left fairing. I should add a tail light and a couple turn signal lamps as well. Now that I think about it, I'm going to add one of the many pocket multi tools I have. Maybe the big Gerber that's too big to carry.

Just to reinforce the already stated opinions. I had similar symptoms with my '81 Seca 750. t was a build up of rust debris from the tank in the fuel manifold at the #4 carb. Even with an inline fuel filter, enough sediment made it's way down the lien to eventually stop the last bowl in line from staying full at WOT.

Just wondering if Yamaha figured everyone would go to a dealership for new tires and made it SOP for the service department to lube the spline and fingers and not seeing a need to list that in the owners manual?

I missed this poll when it was started, but here's my $0.02 anyway. I have never bought a new vehicle. Ever. I look at "This Year's Models" as a reference to what I might buy in 2, 5, 10 or even 20 years. No, I would not have purchased a 2018 Venture new regardless of the power plant. It would have, however been at the top of the list for a "new" used bike few years down the road had it been powered by a liquid cooled V4. Right now it's a definite maybe for future consideration. I am more likely to pick up a lower mileage Gen 1 in the next few years than anything else.

Just to add my $0.02 here. I have no specific knowledge of the Lincoln Continental, but the OP's synopsis of what would happen with an open thermostat is dead wrong. A thermostat, stuck open, would not allow any coolant to flow to the heater core and the engine would take a very long time to come up to operating temperature. During winter weather, it might never get to 195deg. The heat issue could very well be a bad T-Stat. Then again, it could be the blend door actuator.

Do you have an MK1? Are your side bags are hinged at the bottom? My gen 1, MK1 bags never get water in them, no matter how hard it rains. My trunk, however gets water in it if if I ride through a fog bank. Take a look at the lock mechanism. Is there a seal where the cylinder comes through? You'll have to remove the latch assembly to check this.

The easiest way to check the coils is to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings with an Ohm Meter. I don't have the specs at hand but they are posted in several threads and are in the service manual. If the coils Ohm out in spec, odds are they are fine, however there is always a chance that they will beak down under heat and load. They are 30+ years old, ya know. Without a high pot. tester, there's no sure way to test under load.

If I'm not mistaken, the '83 TCI is the red headed step child. The boost circuit 180 deg. out of phase as compared to the '84 and up units. or maybe the boost sensor just needs to be connected to the intake manifold rather than the #2 carburetor body. You should be able to test this easily. Disconnect the vacuum line to the boost sensor from the carb/manifold and hook up a hand vac pump(MiteyMite). At idle, pull a slight vacuum and see if the RPM increase. On the '83 they will, if the boost sensor is good. Not sure what the results will be with the '84 TCI.

I wonder what has changed? This is the fist time I've had my pictures rotated like that. I tied rotating them before tagging them and they still flip sideways. Oh well. Five gallons of faux Marzen Lager in the fermenting bucket! I now remember why I stopped using hop pellets and went exclusively to whole hops. The pellets clog up my kettle siphon. Maybe I'll remember that the next time I brew. Hopefully it won't be another 4 years.

I got the brew started and took some pictures for any who may be interested. Here's my mash tun where I steep the freshly crushed malt. This is the Hot Liquor Tank where the water for the mash process is heated. This is the Boil Kettle where the wort(pre fermentation beer) is boiled to reduce volume and raise the starting gravity. Here's a shot of the wort as it started to boil. I use two 230V immersion heaters to heat the mash water and boil the wort. Time to add the bittering hops!