luvmy40

The easiest way to check the boost sensor is to disconnect the vac line from the carb or manifold and hook it to a mighty vac style vacuum pump. With the engine warm, at idle, no enrichment, pull a slight vacuum. if the idle changes, the sensor is working.

WooHoo! The Ignitech arrived two days early! I thought it would come with the software to adjust the programming. Hopefully it's a download now instead of a disc. No need for it today but I do believe there are some adjustments that need to be made to go with the COP conversion.

I got the progressives installed and have the delinking kit and MC rebuild kits coming from skydoc_17. I ordered the Ignitech ignition module and it's scheduled for delivery this Thursday. I just got off the phone with Mark @ Diamond Custom Seats after ordering a new seat with diver's back rest, custom built to my and my wife's inseam and weight. The anticipation is going to kill me! Now I just have to figure out how to carve out the time to get everything rebuilt and installed before the snow is done. A COP mod is next in line, but I hope to squeeze another season out of the coils.

The "Colt" .22lr guns are all made by Umarex which is either owned by Walther or owns Walther, I can't remember which way it rolls. I do not have the 1911, 22 but I do have a "Colt" M4, 22 that is a joy to shoot and very reliable. As reliable as any .22 rim fire can be. Though I don't own one, I have fired many rounds through the M&P 22 pistol. also made by Umarex and it was also very consistent. I doubt the weight and trigger are really anything like a true 1911, but I'd go for it anyway as I'm sure it'll be a load of fun for plinking.. BTW, the 1911 .22 conversion kits are stoopid expensive!

YamahaLarry is making some great tee shirts. Maybe he and Don could work up a VR line? I'd buy a couple tees and maybe even a jacket.

The Frankford trays are only 1/2-3/4" deep. I load .308 in them but I can't honestly say they'll hold a completed round, primer up stable.

Are you talking reloading trays o ammo boxes? I use these for reloading https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Perfect-Reloading-Convenient-x/dp/B00W8XHC3A I have several for 9mm, .45acp. 32acp, .223, etc. You can set them up bullets up or primer up, either way.

The tees arrived today. They look great and are very comfortable. Thanks!

Got the forks drained, opened up and the progressives in. Waiting for the progressive 10w fork oil to arrive. Caliper seal kits en route from Vickersguy. THANKS! I'll remove and disassemble the calipers tomorrow or this weekend. Just waiting for my tax return to hit the bank to finalize the delinking kit purchase with skydoc-17. BTW, what's the consensus on the spacers for the progressive springs? Full length? Half?...?

Is it possible the seller is an FFL and he's just crossing his I's and dotting his T's?

Well, I own at least three of them. I'll probably get one from the loan a tool at AZ and then find all of mine!

Stripped down in anticipation of skydoc_17's delinking kit! I should have the delinking kit here in couple of weeks and I have the Progressive fork springs to install. I can't seem to find my 29mm socket, so I had to stop work until I find it or buy another, then find it!

A long, long time ago I can still remember Living in Colorado Springs. At that time. Colorado, or at least the Colorado Springs and greater Denver areas did not use salt on the roads. They spread sand or cinders. They also required you to have tire chains in the vehicle at all times in the winter months and then would post mandates of chains on the tires during bad weather. I don't remember having any real issues with driving on icy roads then and there. The older trucks in Colorado back then were certainly in better shape than their Ohio counter parts. BTW, There is a thriving industry in Ohio importing older pick ups from southern states. FireBall Motors is one of the bigger operations in my area. They specialize in clean, '80s and '90s vintage 4x4s under $10K https://www.fireballtrucks.com/

Just order a second TEE for the wife(also a Vet.) If you can combine them into one package and save yourself the extra shipping please do so and apply the $4.50 to the charity.

Ordered! Thanks!

Unfortunately, I have no pictures. That Ranger brought a 2000, 600cc Suzuki Katana, a 1983 Suzuki GS850 and My 1983 Yamaha Venture home to me. The Katana was the only one that I could close the tail gate on.

The funniest thing I ever saw was an '83 Venture in the bed of my '96 Ranger. Which is the reason why the No. 1 criteria for my "new" truck was an 8' bed.

It's an '07, not a '97. Everything was tightened with the lower control arm jacked into loaded position. The front lift is not really visible. I just re aimed the headlights and will leave it alone until I rebuild the rear suspension. Probably next winter.

This is an '07 2WD with just over 91K mi. fairly new to me and the only time it will ever be loaded near capacity will be if have to haul The Beast for some reason. It handled just fine with the old struts, even after the spring broke and she handles fine now with no vibration at highway speeds. I'm just getting flashed by oncoming traffic as my headlights are aimed right in their eyes due to the upward angle of attack.

I busted a spring on the driver's side front strut of my F150 last week. Gotta luv Ohio pot holes! Now the front end of this truck has always been quite a bit lower than rear and I thought it looked kind of silly. I did a little couch surfing and discovered there is a thriving industry in supplying "Leveling Kits" for the F series trucks. I wasn't about to tear the front end apart just to add the leveling blocks, but since the struts had to be replaced anyway, I decided to add the 1-1/2" leveling kit in the process. I went with AutoZone's LS, OEM spec loaded struts and ordered the leveling pucks from Amazon. Me and a buddy from work did the install yesterday afternoon. I'm glad I had help! That was quite the little job. Here's the ironic part; After the new parts and modification, the rear end is exactly 1-1/2" lower than the front. Rear end lift kit? I sure do not want to tear that front end apart again!

There is no doubt things have changed since I left. I started there 21 years ago with little experience in their specialty, which is precision temperature, humidity, CO2 and lighting controlled environments. It quickly became a passion for me. I was crushed when I was told a system that I helped develop was being phased out for a different manufacturers product. Now I get a chance to be a part of the new system. It really means a lot to me that they thought I could be of help. I know there will be a vast learning curve after my long hiatus, but I am optimistic as the passion is still there and I am far from an "old dog" yet.

So, I'll be starting a new job in 2 weeks. About 17 years ago I quit a job I loved. I had many hats with this company. I was a field coordinator. I was a service technician. I was an installation manager. I was a design engineer. I was a salesman. I was an R&D consultant. I also spent nearly 300 days of the year on the road. My kids were very young then and I was missing out on all the things that make being a parent wonderful, so I quit the best job I ever had. I never regretted that decision. Yesterday the president of that company called me and asked me to consider coming back and taking up the reigns in my old position again. I thought about it for about 2 seconds before responding with a "Hell Yes!" AutoZone has been good to me. I have truly enjoyed working there. It was never supposed to be a career, just a pastime and a way to get out of my shop for a few days a week. When the bottom dropped out of the Holster business, AZ was good enough to let me go full time, but it is definitely not a career position for me. So I gave them my two weeks notice today and will embark on a "new" career path in two weeks. Hopefully I will still be able to make the MD get together at Don's place this season!

So, I mentioned that the one issue with this cover was the tailgate hitting on the rear spar, right? Well, I called Tonno Pro to ask if they had any install tips to fix this and they asked me to email some pictures and a description of the issue. I did and they replied about 24 hours later that they were sending me new cover. That was yesterday. The cover arrived via FedEx today and fits perfectly. No interference from the tailgate at all, but still a tight seal. Now, that's what I call Customer Service! BTW, The original cover stood up to our recent blizzard spectacularly. Nearly a foot of cold wet white stuff and no damage. Money well spent and I would not hesitate to recommend the Tonno Pro covers to anyone.

There is one valid reason to get rid of the original air box on any factory motorcycle; Cosmetic, a custom look. It seems to me to be obvious. Evidently it's not obvious to everybody as I see so many vintage bikes with aftermarket pods. I also hear many riders of these bikes complaining about the performance of their modified bikes. I'm sure there are ways to make pods work fairly well in one area or another, i.e. smooth at mid throttle or strong at WOT. It's hard for me to see any way to make them work well across the full range of throttle. I did see a beautifully fabricated WWII style bobber made from a Yamaha XJ frame and engine that used a custom intake manifold and a single pod. The owner claimed he gets similar performance to the original system and it looks great.