luvmy40

Well, I have the (Yamaha) SECA tool and the Suzuki tool for the GS series engines and neither will work for the XVZ engine. The OEM SECA tool is not actually the ? shaped tool. It bolts down to the head and is a bit difficult to align properly and can cause serious damage if not aligned correctly. I always used a heavy gauge wire tie through the spark plug port to trap the valves on the XJ (SECA) to do the adjustments.

It's much easier, on an order of magnitude easier to remove the carbs with the left side main fairing and inner plastic removed. I've heard people talk about disconnecting the throttle cables in place but I've never tried it. I take the left side apart and disconnect the cables at the slider/junction box. Getting the fairing off and on is cake compared to what it must be like to try to disconnect and reconnect the cables on the carbs in place.

Just to add a bit of irony to the thread. I do have a .22 Daisy rifle. It's .22lr rim fire though. The Daisy Legacy bolt action .22lr Much fun and an accurate little stick!

I never new Ruger made an air rifle. I have a Benjamin break action .22 pellet stick that is rated at 1200fps. I've not tested it on a chronograph, but it is wicked accurate and hella fun to shoot.

I may be mistaken, but I think the tachometer reads from the number 2 cylinder and it is definitely is actuated by the ignition via the plug wire(or pick up?). Sounds like your issue is certainly in the ignition circuit, as was my '83's misfire issues. 2 bad coils, bad wires and old plugs, and as it turned out a faulty TCI. If the misfire was carburetor/fuel related, the tach would be working A-OK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ1200-XVZ12-Venture-Y121-1-exhaust-header-manifold-pipes-set-pair/352441266305?hash=item520f22f081:g:C18AAOSwpspbdake:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ12-Venture-1200-XVZ-Y271-front-exhaust-header-pipes/350790531194?hash=item51acbeb87a:g:OJEAAMXQvTlRgDvL:rk:10:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1200-249-EXHAUST-PIPE-HEADER/202060684191?epid=1911872597&hash=item2f0bc15b9f:g:wCUAAOSwCbtZwoT1:rk:32:pf:0 Here's a few sets of front pipes on ebay that don't look to be in terrible condition.

My '83 is sporting a cut down factory wind screen and I'm wanting to go with the full height screen. Any chance of a trade?

Sea Foam, Lucas Complete, STP, What ever... None of them are designed/meant to be cleaning solutions. I've been using Sea Foam for close to 40 years in it it's intended and designed purpose. As a storage stabilizer and a periodic maintenance product. In this capacity, it excels, as does everything Lucas produces. Berrymans B12 and other "Carb Cleaners" are decent cleaning solutions. I must say, I have noticed that the Berrymans cleaners are much less aggressive today than they were 30 years ago. Once upon a time, a 4 hour soak in a tank of Berrymans was down right destructive to aluminum parts. Today, over night is the minimum. BTW, even now, a good carb cleaner is not friendly to rubber parts. $0.02, YMMV

So, the key to classy restoration is to cover what can't be fixed. The front headers on a a gen 1 bike are barely visible without any "add ons". Find a nice chrome radiator guard and a chrome front scoop and you will never see the headers.

Nice looking wagon Don! Though I have to say I always feel there is something inherently wrong with an automatic transmission in a pick up tuck.

Petty cool system, but I've never had a problem ramping up into a truck. Sometimes coasting them back off can be a challenge! The ranger bed was so short I had to land cater-cornered with a saddle bag removed to get enough rear wheel on the bed to strap her down.

I found that out last spring when I first started looking to replace the Purple People Eater('96 Ranger Splash in Grape). 10-15 year old trucks with little if any bed sides left, 150K-200K mi. and price tags over 8 grand. I had to laugh at most of them. I had just missed out on an '02 Silverado 1500 in nearly mint condition for $5000.00 then I found this one at a local dealership and got it for $5300.00 More than I really wanted to spend, but it is fairly low mileage and other than the rust, it's in really good condition.

Well, the rust on the fenders is worse than I'd hoped at first glance. After flaking of the loosest paint, And after hitting it with the wire wheel, This is going to take more than a bit of bondo to smooth out! Ah well, what's that old line about plans, mice and men?

Parking brakes are fixed! Funny thing is the rotors and pads are brand new and the disc hardware was all new and lubed nicely. Who ever did it did a nice job. I wonder why they left the drum park brakes all discombobulated? I did use the new springs and adjusters. The old ones were pretty bad. It was exactly what I had found described on several forums and a couple youtube videos. The actuator levers were seized up and the cable had come off the lever hook. A few minutes on the wire wheel and a bit of light file work later they work just fine. They may need adjusted but I'll take to a shop with a rack for that. It's tough to get them even on the ground, one wheel at a time.

My only two criteria for choosing a truck were; 1. Long box bed 2. Not a Triton V8 Well, those and a reasonable price tag.

I got the cruise control figured out. It works, there's just no "On" indicator. I get the green "speedometer" icon when it is on and set but nothing at all when it is on but not set. So, from startup, hit the on button once(no indicator at all), get to speed, hit the set button and the green speedo icon pops on. The coast and set buttons adjust the speed setting and it holds speed properly. Hit the brake or clutch or step on the throttle and the icon goes out and the cruise drops out. Hit the resume and the icon pops back and the cruise reverts to the last setting. It's working right, just no "On" indicator. I bought the E Brake spring and adjuster kit this morning, but I probably won't need it. It sounds like a good cleaning and some anti seize is all that is usually needed to restore the parking brake to operation. I'll be tearing into that and working on the rust spots later today. I'm not going to put the effort into it to make it look new but I want to halt the rust and at least make it look semi decent. A wire wheel, Loctite rust neutralizer, primer and a close match touch up paint should do the trick. I may go so far as to use a little Bondo on the fenders if it's pitted too badly after I scrub it with the wire wheel.

I forgot to mention that she only has 88,127 miles on the clock. That's extremely low for this vintage in this area.

Nope. Nothing at all when I hit the on/off buttons. I've never owned a manual trans. vehicle that had cruise control, but I see Rostra has a cruise package for manual shift trucks...

If you really feel like messing with it... Find the heavy point of the wheel without the tire mounted and mark it. Then mount the tire but do not seat the bead. Find the heavy point and mark the tire. Move the heavy point of the tire opposite the heavy point of the wheel, seat the bead and balance. I think I'd just mount it and balance it if it were mine. Unless it takes a stupid bunch weights, that is.

I had about $300.00 in petty cash set aside for some upgrades and repairs on The Beast this down season. I used it today for a down payment on a 2007 Ford F150 long box. I really needed a "new" truck. My POS '96 Ford Ranger was on it's last legs. Hell, it'd been life support for the last few years. Besides, getting the Venture in the bed was darn near impossible and it looked really funny when it was. Any Ford folks? I have a couple questions. This is the XL package with the 4.2 L V6, manual 5 speed transmission and no frills. The steering wheel has the cruise control buttons but they do not work. Does the manual version actually have CC or is this a replacement steering wheel? The E Brake does nothing. I think I have found out why in a cursory web search but if anyone here has any insight or words of wisdom, I'd love to hear from you. Not the best pic, but here she is. There's some rust over the rear fenders, but not rotted through. There are a few spots on the front corners of the hood that don't have any rust, but the paint is flaking off an the clear coat on the doors, over the windows is peeling. Not bad at all for a 12 year old truck in Ohio. The frame is solid, suspension is good, steering is tight and the engine runs quiet and strong. Looks like a brand new alternator and passenger side lower control arm.

I lost a Brother to to a deer few years ago. I also lost a rear tun signal and a license plate to one quite a few years before that. I was very lucky. Rob wasn't so lucky. Keep your eyes open and your head on a swivel. Stay safe out there.

As far as the petcock goes, I cant help. The '83 MK1 is "ON" or "OFF", no reserve position. The handle bars are not what one would would call adjustable. Rather, they are configurable. Track down an owners manual for step by step directions or email/call me. I'd be happy to walk you through it.

I'd look at the wiring connections first. Mine was flaky. Sometimes it worked other times it stayed cold. It was a corroded connector at the sending unit.

I'm considering going to the Ignitech TCI sooner rather than later. I'm not having any ignition issues but am anticipating the eventual need to go COP when my coils start to give out, again. Is there anything I need to know about the Ignitech? Any issues out of the box? Ignitech stated the unit would be pre programmed for the '83 MK1 and would be "Plug and play" with my existing "boost" sensor, or I could get their vacuum advance sensor when I order the unit. Any thoughts on which is the better set up? Also, does the unit require a proprietary USB cable for programming or is it a standard cable? The USB cable they quoted is the only price point I find a bit high. $12 US? for a USB cable? I assume the "Connector adapter" is necessary? Thanks for any help.

Ditto. Still no pic in the OP but I see Don's attached picture.