luvmy40

A deer whistle maybe? Or a helmet hanger?

The new diff. cover does have a magnet and the OEM fill plug does as well. I also spent a good amount of effort cleaning the sludge from the diff. case.

Now that the differential is full, the leaking pinion seal made it's self known! As usual, the job required two extra trips to the parts store(my home away from home) since I grabbed the wrong seal the first time and none of my pullers were up to the job. So, 4 hours later the 1/2 hour job is done. :banana::banana::banana:

I wouldn't worry too much about inhaling lead vapors when casting. You're not vaporizing the lead at melting temps. There are plenty of nasty fumes that are caused by the impurities and contaminates boiling off in the process and you should not breathe them in, but it is not lead you are inhaling. The danger from lead is from ingestion. Residue on your hands getting on food or in your eyes is what you want to watch out for. Wash your hands thoroughly before doing anything after/during casting. I also wear a lab coat that is only used for smelting and casting and never comes in from the shop. This helps keep and particulate transfer to a minimum. The old wheel weights(the newer stuff is all zinc and useless) are pretty hard for casting balls but work very well for 9mm and .45 bullets. I used to be able to get the wheel weights for free from the local service shops when they had to pay someone for disposal. Now-a-days, they go for $.50-$1.00/lb if you can find them. Then you have watch the smelt for zinc weights and get them out before they melt or they ruin the pour.

I haven't built any scale models in quite a long time, but I was quite the avid modeler in my youth. My favorite was a very detailed model of the Formula 1 Elf racer. Steering and suspension all worked and the engine was extremely detailed. I'm afraid I'm too OCD these days to enjoy building. It would drive me crazy if I couldn't get everything perfect and would not be able to focus on anything else. Those look great, BTW!

Saw blades and files are great steel for knives but you do have anneal them then heat treat them properly.

I love Kershaw's blades. That is a great design and a great story to go with it. KAI, the parent company of Kershaw Knives is also the owner of Zero Tolerance, one of my favorite high end production knife companies.

I don't mind the taste. I just don't like wallowing in the puddle that missed the drain pan. I still smell like burnt gear oil after 4 showers!

The MPG isn't great but that wasn't a high priority. The Ranger was only getting 13-15 mpg. The F-150 is hitting 15-18 mpg and has almost double the cargo and weight capacity. Keep in mind, this is not a primary use vehicle. It's a secondary winter transport(tertiary summer transport) and an emergency recovery device. I.E., a vehicle of convenience.

A few more.

I have noticed there are a fair amount of gun enthusiast residing hereabouts. I wonder if there are any edged weapon enthusiast as well? I'm a bit of a collector and knife maker my self. I'm really at the dabbling level as a maker but I am all in as a collector and enthusiast. Here are a few of my collection and some that I have made.

It has the 4.2l, V6. The only criteria for choosing a truck was that it had to have an 8' bed and not have a Triton V8.

Yes, it is a limited slip diff. That's why I went with the Royale Purple as it has the LS additives already. The other options in my area, Valvoline and Mobile One synthetics need the LS additive.

I recently picked up a "new" '07 F-150 to replace my old '96 Ranger. I bought it the day it hit the lot so it had not been gone over at all by the dealership. I changed the oil and filters the day I got it but didn't get to the differential till today. The diff. cover was more rust than metal and it looked like it had been seeping fluid for a long time. I got a new cover and gasket and researched the preferred diff. fluid. The consensus seems to be Royale Purple 75w-140. That stuff is pricey! 2.75 qts. @ $21.00/qt When I popped the cover I got about a quart of mud to drain out and had to dig the sludge out of the case with paper towels. The gears look good and it had not been chattering or slipping so I think I'm good to go. I don't think I'll do it again without a lift though, that was a PITA!

AutoZone has both a coolant system pressure tester and a combustion gas leak coolant tester available in their Loan a Ttool program. The deposit on the pressure tester is about $250.00 as it is a very comprehensive test kit with adapters for any system imaginable, but that is refunded completely upon return. The combustion gas tester has a $25.00 deposit and the test fluid is about $8.00. Full disclosure: I am an AutoZone Comercial Specialist but do not work on commission.

Since this thread was bought back to life, I guess I'll update my earlier post. The RasPi3 was a boat load of fun to set up and play with but it fell short as a streaming video device. Just not enough gusto to be smooth or reliable. I wound up using a micro tower PC running windows 8.2 as my media hub. It's 10 times the size of the RasPi3 but it's still pretty small and has DVI video out and fiber optic audio so the quality is good. I gave the digital flat panel antenna to my Mom as I found I rarely used it. With CRTV, HULU, NetFlix, and Amazon Prime, I have more content available than I could ever watch.

Well, I have the (Yamaha) SECA tool and the Suzuki tool for the GS series engines and neither will work for the XVZ engine. The OEM SECA tool is not actually the ? shaped tool. It bolts down to the head and is a bit difficult to align properly and can cause serious damage if not aligned correctly. I always used a heavy gauge wire tie through the spark plug port to trap the valves on the XJ (SECA) to do the adjustments.

It's much easier, on an order of magnitude easier to remove the carbs with the left side main fairing and inner plastic removed. I've heard people talk about disconnecting the throttle cables in place but I've never tried it. I take the left side apart and disconnect the cables at the slider/junction box. Getting the fairing off and on is cake compared to what it must be like to try to disconnect and reconnect the cables on the carbs in place.

Just to add a bit of irony to the thread. I do have a .22 Daisy rifle. It's .22lr rim fire though. The Daisy Legacy bolt action .22lr Much fun and an accurate little stick!

I never new Ruger made an air rifle. I have a Benjamin break action .22 pellet stick that is rated at 1200fps. I've not tested it on a chronograph, but it is wicked accurate and hella fun to shoot.

I may be mistaken, but I think the tachometer reads from the number 2 cylinder and it is definitely is actuated by the ignition via the plug wire(or pick up?). Sounds like your issue is certainly in the ignition circuit, as was my '83's misfire issues. 2 bad coils, bad wires and old plugs, and as it turned out a faulty TCI. If the misfire was carburetor/fuel related, the tach would be working A-OK.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ1200-XVZ12-Venture-Y121-1-exhaust-header-manifold-pipes-set-pair/352441266305?hash=item520f22f081:g:C18AAOSwpspbdake:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ12-Venture-1200-XVZ-Y271-front-exhaust-header-pipes/350790531194?hash=item51acbeb87a:g:OJEAAMXQvTlRgDvL:rk:10:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1200-249-EXHAUST-PIPE-HEADER/202060684191?epid=1911872597&hash=item2f0bc15b9f:g:wCUAAOSwCbtZwoT1:rk:32:pf:0 Here's a few sets of front pipes on ebay that don't look to be in terrible condition.

My '83 is sporting a cut down factory wind screen and I'm wanting to go with the full height screen. Any chance of a trade?

Sea Foam, Lucas Complete, STP, What ever... None of them are designed/meant to be cleaning solutions. I've been using Sea Foam for close to 40 years in it it's intended and designed purpose. As a storage stabilizer and a periodic maintenance product. In this capacity, it excels, as does everything Lucas produces. Berrymans B12 and other "Carb Cleaners" are decent cleaning solutions. I must say, I have noticed that the Berrymans cleaners are much less aggressive today than they were 30 years ago. Once upon a time, a 4 hour soak in a tank of Berrymans was down right destructive to aluminum parts. Today, over night is the minimum. BTW, even now, a good carb cleaner is not friendly to rubber parts. $0.02, YMMV

So, the key to classy restoration is to cover what can't be fixed. The front headers on a a gen 1 bike are barely visible without any "add ons". Find a nice chrome radiator guard and a chrome front scoop and you will never see the headers.