Flyinfool

:confused24:OK Back to the topic at hand. I was bored so I pulled out my trusty calculator. On a first gen some tire data for the front tire running at 80 MPH; Size - MR90-18 Outside diameter - 26.4" RPM - 1034.262 RPS - 17.268 Centrifugal force at the tire surface - 394.662 Gs And the rear tire at 80 MPH; Size - MU90B16 Outside Diameter - 25.72 RPM - 1075.633 RPS - 17.927 Centrifugal force at tire surface - 410.448Gs It is the Centrifugal force that is most interesting. At about 400 Gs that means that for every pound of tire there is 400 lbs of force trying to tear that tire apart just from the RPM and not even considering the loads on the tire. Unfortunately Dunlop does not list the weight of a tire in their specs so the actual force can not be calculated. But just using a WAG of 20 lbs would put it at ~8000 lbs of force trying to tear that tire apart. I wonder if your tire could have a weak spot in the inner cords that is allowing the tire to stretch in a spot as the RPMs come up creating a slight bulge, or out of round, that disappears as the speeds drop back down???? :confused24: Now if this were the case, not only would the tire be a bigger diameter at that point which can create a vibration, but the weight of the tire being farther from the axel will give it a higher effective weight, contributing to the vibration. AND would also create a deformity in the inner surface of the tire which would have higher Gs and attract all of the balancing beads, further adding to the imbalance vibration. Again I am not a tire expert and this is all just a WAG (Wild Ass Guess) on my part.

Well I'm waiting....................

Why bother to stop, he knew he was not strong enough to lift it back onto its wheels anyhow.

Looks like you had a lot of fun. It was good to meet up with you. Erika and I enjoyed it. It is OK, you can tell @cowpuc about the prototype 50° snow I was messing with. Sorry it made your ride to the hotel room a bit chilly, I forget that people that live in a blast furnace are not used to what Wisconsin people call nice weather. Puc has tasked me to come up with 60° snow. Still working on that formula.

To little tongue weight will cause a dangerous sway. I have never heard of to much tongue weight causing any issue other than exceeding the weight limits of the hitch and/or suspension of the tow vehicle or of the tongue itself. I have had a load shift once when the tie down chain broke and 3650 lbs moved 5 feet forward and went from a 500 lb tongue to well over 1000 lbs on the tongue, all it did was to squat the back of the truck but it still handled fine at freeway speed. I can see where it probably took some weight off the front wheels when that happened. But I was not needing to make any sudden steering inputs so I did not notice an issue there either. I am sure I would have broke something in the rear of the truck before the front wheels would have lost enough traction to become an issue. But the math does say that there was less weight on the front wheels.

Bummer! Got any good pics with the cover off? that might be fixable.

It is in the top bar right about in the middle, it is the tab labeled "VR Chat". just click that and it will open a new window for the chat room. If you go to the very bottom of any page you can see who all is in chat at the moment that opened the page you are on. As mentioned above, someone has to be first to just open chat and wait for someone else to join in. Most phones and many tablets have difficulty with chat, it does work best from a laptop or desktop computer. Phones and tablets will run chat, but the window to type in and read responses is only big enough for a couple of words. It is just very annoying on a small screen.

The wiring diagrams are in this thread, Pick out the one that matches your bike. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

Difficult just makes it a challenge, I LOVE a good challenge.......... At one point last winter there was SNOW on the ground in all 50 states at the same time.........

Did I hear someone mention SNOW?

I usually check in to the chat room at around 8:00 Central time IF I am home. Chat does not work well at all on a phone and barely works on a tablet. best results are on a laptop or desktop computer. The key to getting a chat going is that someone must turn chat on and wait for someone else to pop in. This gets a conversation started that can bring in others that only look to see if there is anyone already in there. I will try to be sure that I am in chat tonight.

It all depends on just what the coating is. If it is a thermally conductive epoxy then it will help the copper to dissipate the heat. If it is a thermal insulator then it will contribute to the coils getting hotter. The other big factor to consider is the breakdown temp of the coating. Stators go bad because the insulation burns off the wire, it is very rare that the actual wire gets hot enough to melt and break.

In the summer we get usable light till around 9:30. But from mid December until mid January I will not see daylight except for the rare case where we should happen to have clear skies on a weekend.

Many of the aftermarket stators are wound for a bit more output power, to do this it takes more turns of wire in each coil, in order to get the room for more turns of wire in each coil they use wire with thinner insulation. So the insulation does wear out or burn thru quicker. Modern wire insulation is stronger than the stuff from 30 years ago so they put it on even thinner yet. Where I work we have noticed it with electric motor windings also, they just do not hold up like they used to.

Very nice ike. some times it just is to good to be true but really is true.

To torque something that you can only get an open end onto you need to use a crows foot on the torque wrench. If the crows foot is at 90° to the torque wrench you will still get an accurate reading.

Some play is normal. While you had it up on jack stands, did you try putting it in gear? With it in gear you can use the rear brake to put some load on the engine. Does the front wheel spin free? Starting with a cold engine, start it and keep checking the headers to see if the all heat up at the same rate. You may be running on 3 cylinders.

These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders. When on 3 cyl the HP will be down a bit but usually the gas mileage is also down a bit. Do the temp test on the headers to see if they are all coming up to temp at the same rate.

It does not sound like a clutch issue. Clutch issue would be the opposite of what you described. Does it move freely if you push it? From your description it sounds more like something in the drive train or brakes is binding and not turning freely. Or I am misunderstanding what you are saying.

It is not real hard to get back there. Pull the headlight and the windshield and then the dash cover is right there. Pull the cover and it is all right there in front of you. you do not have to pull the fairings. The dash is held in with 4 nuts from the underside. There are 2 connectors and the speedo cable that plug into the back of it.

Be careful, many CL adds that are to good to be true are just bait. They know that you will show up to look at it with a pocket full of cash that they wish to make theirs.

Nice The barter is still alive and well. I once got a NIB Remington 700 SS in 7mm Rem Mag as down payment on a boat that I paid $200 for. It was only a few hours out of the gun store when his wife saw it and it had to go NOW. The gun shop would only give him half of what he paid 2 hours earlier.

A disconnected wire will never drain a battery. When you go back to post 2 and disconnect the battery cable, a spark means there is a fairly large drain, while that battery cable is disconnected, connect an Amp meter between the cable and the terminal. Let us know what that reads, that will tell us where to point you next.

I still want to build this some day to have real train horns on my bike. The train horns that I have on my truck work REALLY well. This will plug into my 1 - 1/4 inch receiver hitch, and has tie downs to also be used to carry a cooler for day trips. It contains the 4 trumpets, air compressor, tank and all valves and plumbing for the system. In a pinch the air supply can be used to air up the tires on the bike. I will also have a mini reciever to be able to attach this to the tongue of my trailer to give me a place for the cooler and a good horn. The interesting thing with horns is the dB ratings, they are mostly all such BS. Most hons just give a dB rating and no other info. A dB rating without a distance is meaningless. Most car and bike horns that do give a distance have it well hidden because it is usually 4 inches. If someone is just 4 inches from the horn it is pretty much to late. When working with sound it is a logarithmic scale. This means that for every change of 3 dB you have doubled or halved the sound pressure level. The way sound travels thru air, every time you double the distance you loose 3 dB, or half of the volume. So if you are starting out at 120 dB at 4 inches, then you will have 117 dB at 8 inches. 114 at 16", and so on to get down to 99 dB (about 1/8 of the rated volume) at just 14 yards, Most people can yell at 100 dB and 14 yards is not very far away at driving speed. A train horn by federal specification must do 120 dB at 100 yards. That is LOUD. I used to work for a place that made parts for locomotives and the horns was one of our products. The test room was real interesting with a dozen train horns all blasting away at the same time. No one could possible survive in that room with the horns all blasting. There were many safeties in place to protect from the noise.

Lower wattage bulbs are LESS bright. The last thing I want to do is reduce visibility on my bike. I made all of my lights brighter.