Flyinfool

Earl it pains me to hear this news. Erika and thoughts and prayers go out to Jean, you and your family.

In the case of tech giants, you mean if it ain't broke, fix it till it is broke.

Not nearly enough. Only around 6-7K per year. I am hoping to do better this year.

So what is it with always needing another gallon of milk and loaf of bread for bad weather??? Erika went shopping today and said every one had shopping carts full of bread and milk?

:sign yeah that:

AND good parts... But then there are a lot of people that build various things for no purpose other than to look at or just the fun of the build. Some people like creating things that are a work of art, those same people may not be able to enjoy riding, so they make art. Then there are those that simply have more money than they know what to do with and the cost is irrelevant. I learned a long time ago to not fault others because there hobbies or interests/preferences within a hobby are different than mine. Who knows, now that the concept is out there, some manufacturer may pick up on it and come out with a production centerless wheel bike. I see it in the RC hobby all the time. First someone cobbles something new up in the basement, then others see it and copy the idea and make improvements, then a manufacturer puts it in production, next thing you know it is mainstream and everyone is doing it.

When did you take that pic of Dons bike?????

Its gonna git colder then that in the next few days.........

I agree, I want the guy calling the shots to get their first. Where ever their happens to be. Most if not all new airliners either have are are very close to having the technology on board to make a complete flight with no pilot on board. I do not think the the airlines would be able to sell any seats on a flight with no pilot, and the FAA is no where near ready to consider allowing such a thing. But a modern pilot has very little to do during a flight, the flight computers are already doing everything. Some airlines even forbid the pilot to turn off the auto pilot except in an emergency. The auto pilot will give a smoother ride for the passengers than any pilot can do manually.

I just finished cleaning up my keyboard and monitor, don't you go getting me to drooling......

I was not expecting the last few scenes. Now I have to clean my keyboard and monitor....... :rotfl: :rotfl: The technology available over the counter right now is quite amazing (and scary) and one of the reasons that camera equipped RC is on the verge of being outlawed in the USA without a special license.

But I'll still take him in the twisties.........or by mile 2.....

Here is one of the better explanations. http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ The biggest issue is the root radius on the driver. Because the Phillips has a big root radius and the JIS is fairly sharp, the Phillips driver is really only going halfway into the JIS screw head before the radius hits. You are now trying to apply torque via the radius near the center of the tool and that is why it strips out so easy. The JIS driver used in a Phillips screw will still be driving at the outer tips to transfer maximum torque.

If you are rarely hitting 3500 - 4,000 RPM you are lugging the engine. 3500 - 4000 is where it like to cruise at and acceleration like to be closer to 5000. Especially with a big sidecar or trailer. When pulling a trailer I seldom let it get below 4000. These engines LIKE to rev, you wont hurt it any. Not all 1200s had the 6 spring setup. I thought is was only the 83s. I am not sure if you can swap over a clutch basket from the 83 to a newer bike with out also making some other changes. The older setup with the 6 springs will also slip when the springs get old and tired. The easiest thing to do is to just replace your spring with Skydocs_17s heavier duty one. As long as you have not been slipping for so long that you have now worn out the clutch. A micrometer will tell you if the plates are worn out. New plates are 3mm (0.1181 inch) thick, worn out is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch) thick. If the steels are blue they should be replaced.

I only buy JIS screw drivers now. A JIS driver will work perfectly in a Phillips screw but a Phillips driver will not work well in a JIS screw.

I would not think that any state requires collision or comp. BUT most do require liability to pay for any damage that is your fault. In Wisconsin you can either have liability insurance or post a $60K bond as proof of financial responsibility. If you cause an accident anywhere, you can pretty much count on getting sued for damages unless you have deep enough pockets to cover the bills.

Even if there is no power available for a motion sensing light, you can always go solar. I have this HF light in my back yard. It has a battery that charges during the day and a motion sensor to turn it on when needed at night. You could even attach it with double sided tape to not modify the buildings.

Can't be a Hardly, this thing flies....

Install a motion activated light on the house and/or garage? Many alarm systems turn on running lights when you arm or disarm via the remote. A bunch of options here http://www.ebay.com/bhp/remote-control-relay-12v

Would love to. But the snow is so deep I cant even get to the building that the bike is in, let alone get it out. It just started snowing again at 3 this afternoon (Tuesday), it is not going to stop snowing till Thursday.

If it has a hole for the sensor it is NOT an AGM. My AGM came with an acid pack. Once you put in the acid there is a cap that once installed is not removable and the battery is sealed. If there were a sensor port, that would break the seal on that cell. AGM is the type of internal construction of the battery, it still uses the same acid and the same lead as a "wet Cell" battery. the same chemistry is at work.

Like you my bike is hibernating.

Congratulations. An iron butt I will never be. Is there a marshmallow butt organization????

Whether you add the water before or after charging is an area open for debate. The acid level will rise during charging because of the bubbles produced during the charging process, displacing some of the electrolyte. Because the level will rise, if the battery is full, there is a chance that it could bubble over as the level rises during charge. this is usually only an issue with batteries that will be charged at a high rate causing a lot of bubbling. On the other hand. Adding the water before charging will insure that it is fully mixed into the solution during the charging process. This is especially important if the battery will be subjected to sub freezing temperatures where the layer of water in the top of the battery could freeze. Since the OP is in Massachusetts, freezing this time of year is a realistic possibility, especially with the weather that I am done with and sending on to the east..... The best thing to do is to check the fluid level in the battery before charging, if it is low, fill to just below the fill mark to get as much of the water mixed as possible. You never want to charge a battery when the level is low enough to have exposed plates. The slightly low level will prevent bubbling over. Then top off with just the small amount of water needed after charging and after the bubbles have all had a chance to rise to the top. Most batteries will not bubble over with a low charge rate like you are planning to use. If bubbling over was a concern then you would also not be able to charge a battery that was already full.

I could see me with something similar to that.....