Flyinfool

That is the one. A bit pricy but should be a lot faster. the ebay store is another $16 for the storage pouch that can be included from England.

I do not know if it is possible to spill enough antifreeze to get some into the cylinder and cause a hydro lock. Check your air cleaners, if they are wet with antifreeze then the dealer did get some into the engine. This could easily damage the engine. I never measured the conductivity of anti freeze to see if it can short things out. My guess is that it is conductive enough to drain the battery and cause other electrical issues. If you think you have gas leaking into the engine, Pull the plugs and then turn it over. if there is gas in a cylinder it will spray out the plug hole and not hydro lock. Be very careful you do not ignite the gas spraying out of the engine. Depending on where the engine stopped in its rotation relative to the cylinder with liquid in it has a lot to do with what happens. if the hydro lock happens as the first piston is coming up with only starter power, it will stop the starter with likely no damage, If a cylinder fires Before the cylinder with liquid comes up on compression stroke then you are likely to break something as now you have both the power of the starter and the power of the cylinder that has fired as well as the inertia of the rotating assembly all hitting that one point for a hard stop. All that energy has to go somewhere. You said you had gas in the oil, are you sure it was not antifreeze? I'm not sure just where to start, You may have multiple issues which always makes it harder to diagnose. You seem to have symptoms that should be completely unrelated.

Dont worry about the 2nd gear issue. @cowpuc has been riding his with no 2nd gear for 250,000 MILES so far. Just get used to shifting from 1st to third and third to 1st. As far as abandoning it at the end of your trip, there are a whole bunch of us that might end up following you around to grab it up.'

Good luck, wish you were closer. We love pics and videos......

Happy 4th to all. Have an enjoyable and safe day.

It sounds like either your mechanic does not have a clue on these bikes or is a rip off. I would not even go back to him other than to insist on at least a partial refund. There is the digital synchronizer that a member here invented, but it only comes as a kit, you have to solder all the components to the circuit board. The most popular sync toll on this site is the Morgan Carb Tune, you have to order it from Europe.

That,s not down, that's up, he would have to ride up to the international. Guess that happens when you spend most of your life hanging upside down on the bottom of the world.....,

Great to hear. Did the Warden hear, or did you hide the frying pan.......

As mentioned above, the air suspension system does suffer from bad factory solder joints, quick and easy fix. Getting the CLASS working will stiffen up the suspension a lot and also raise it a bunch. The bike was designed to have air in the suspension at all times. It is also common for the front springs to be worn out, a new set of progressives will fix that, it is almost by default that the spring change will get new fork oil. Not only is that bike running, and complete, but looks clean to. A real steal.

Puc FWIW. My dad had Prostate Cancer back in his 60s and has been cancer free for the last 20+ years. I'm betting they have even better treatments now than what they had 20 years ago. My doc describes it as, almost all men will die with prostate cancer, very few will die of prostate cancer. Meaning it is treatable and fixable.

That's to bad. It was a good thought while it lasted........

If you are going to do a head swap in the interest of more power. Might as well go right for a set of V-Max heads and cams.

But he owes the bank $80K on that pile of stuff.

Glad you made it home in one piece. BUT a "comfortable 108"????? NO Such thing. I was melting at 85.

I never heard of reviving rubber brake parts, I would replace it with new. Brake fluid is just to nasty to risk a leak. Brake fluid that gets on the fairing (or any other paint or plastic) will destroy it.

Ya, 160 miles before the warning light is always my goal. I have a very strong right hand so seldom get more than 150 miles before the light.

So you are saying you have a weak right wrist..........

Oh man Puc, I can certainly understand the double edge sword. It is great to finally have the problem identified, but it is a very scary problem to have. You have been and will continue to be in out thoughts and prayers.

They were the only time he was not busy steering???? Great Pics guys and gals, Keep um comin.

WOW! That almost looks bigger than my house.

I did not even know that there were VR shirts available. Oh well, here we go again....

Yes there is some kind of brown coating on the board, some have noticeably more than others, some look like they went mud racing and have obvious signs that there was water inside of there.

I thought I read somewhere on this site that with the pump bypass the bike will run, but you may go lean at high rpm, and the last gallon or 2 will not have enough head pressure to feed. But then it is a 2nd gen and I may have no clue what I am talking about.

Probably cant get a new OEM one for much less. But the Mr Gasket is a LOT less. Or you can get a good used OEM and slap new contacts in it and be good to go.

I just used a smear of electrical safe RTV silicone on all of the seams and the vent holes that let the water in in the first place, and then a bunch of dielectric grease on the connectors to seal that up.