Flyinfool

Not that I have given it any thought....... But I do have a receiver hitch.......

OK this is dangerous but.......... https://www.hornblasters.com/products/category.php?c=train-horn-kits-and-air-horn-kits

We can come up with a lot of ways to help you spend your money. Yes you need a drink holder. Its hot down there, You need to stay hydrated. Go to a bicycle store, they have a lot to choose from.

How fast is faster. What speed is it idling cold and what does it speed up to hot? How are you using the choke? Some speed increase is normal

That is why I have 2 WOLO Bad Boyz horns on my bike for now. Each horn is 2 trumpets so I have a total of 4 trumpets. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?72811-She-tried-to-get-me I am still working on how to mount a TRAIN horn, and 200 PSI compressor, and air tank on the bike, at 180 DbA it will be heard. Most horns made for bikes or cars are rated for Db at 4 inches. The "loud" ones are in the 120 db range, most are around 110. Me personally I never want any other vehicle within 4 inches of me. Sound pressure is cut in half every time you double the distance. 3 db is what it takes to double the sound. SO; 110 db at 4 inches 107 db at 8 inches 104 db at 16 inches 101 db at 32 inches 98 db at 64 inches 95 db at 128 inches or 10.5 feet 92 db at 21 feet or 7 yards 89 db at 14 yards. 14 yards is not all that far away and I can yell louder than 89 db. Now a train horn is rated to be a minimum of 120 DbA at 100 yards. I used to work for Prime Manufacturing, Train horns was one of our products. Still not sure how that big horn ended up on my truck.........

Hey welcome, I see that you have been assimilated, resistance is futile. Now that you are a member we can let you know that there is no escape. We can teach you all kinds of bad things, hopefully you can teach us a few toooo.

My last muscle tear took two years to be getting pretty good, its still not 100% but still getting better. Yup I remember the good old days when stuff almost seemed to heal overnight. But you really do not want a partial tear to become a full tear.

Sounds like you need to discover the chat room. Most evenings around 8 pm central time. Some get there earlier some are later. There is no telling what topic(s) of discussion might come up or who will be there. You can click on the "CHAT" tab at the top of the screen or use this link. http://host718.123flashchat.com/venturerider/123flashchat.php?init_group=venturerider.

That @saddlebum is the one you have to watch out for. We finally figured out that he is the one that keeps leaving the back door open and letting all of that cold frigid Canadian air come pouring down here. If it weren't for SaddleBum always leaving the back door open to supply me with that cold frigid Canadian air, my infamous Whitewash machine would be a useless collection of assorted machine parts rusting away under warm sunny skies, and then what would @cowpuc have left to complain about. So now I may have to go and open up the choke some more, see if I can get a wider dispersal pattern to add some fact to your fiction. I heard that the last of the snow in Boston just melted this week, that was a job well done.

Don't believe a word they tells ya. My sights and aim are just fine........

First off, yes it is possible for gas to drain into the crankcase while parked. The way for that to happen is if you have an issue with one or more floats in the carbs. if the float vale is not sealing the gas can overflow, drain into the carb and from there drain into the cylinder, where is sneaks past the rings and into the oil. If this is happening, starting the engine can be dangerous to the engine. IF it fires with one cylinder full of gas it will hydro lock and can damage the piston and/or connecting rod. So it is something to get right after to find if you have an issue. As for testing the oil for gas. put a drop of oil on your finger. Smell it. You can smell the gas in the oil. Now rub that oil between your fingers compare it to a drop of new oil. If the drain oil feels thinner then it likely has gas in it. When you pour the oil from the drain pan into whatever container you put it into, pay attention to how much oil there is. If you have the same or more drain oil than what you put in, then you know something was added. Remember the filter will be full of oil. So you should always end up with less drain oil than the amount needed to fill to proper level.

Here are a couple. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?101598-Bleeding-the-clutch http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?100446-Bleeding-Clutch These are for bleeding the air out of an empty system. but it is essentially the same process for a fluid change. Since you are doing a fluid change you will not have to deal with air in the system unless you let the reservoir run dry. Start by covering everything with towels and sheet plastic. ANY brake fluid that gets on paint or plastic will destroy the paint or plastic. Remove the old fluid from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with new fluid. Find the bleeder under the rubber cover that is between the two side covers. Connect a clear hose to the bleeder and put the other end in a jar or can. SLOWLY squeeze the lever while opening the bleeder. (Fast movement of the lever will squirt fluid everywhere.) Close the bleeder. SLOWLY release the lever. Repeat pumping until clear fluid is coming out of the bleeder tube. Keep an eye on the fluid level so you do not suck air into the system.

Once you hit IL turn left and hit WI, I'll buy ya an ice cream, the good stuff.

Those 40 pin cards contain an EPROM A set of eight 1N400x is what we use to replace the stock diodes that will corrode and fall apart over time. they block the back EMF every time a plug fires. The stock ones are a ceramic ball that is half blue half white. Once they corrode enough to fall apart the back EMF hits the EPROM and fries it. The diodes do not fail electrically, they fail mechanically from corrosion. Many people have opened up the TCI and found liquid water in there. There are 2 holes in the case to let the water in, but it has a hard time finding its way back out.

I will be looking forward to see what you can get out of it. I am really bad at software so I leave that to others.

Yes there is a programmable chip in the TCI. Might be 2 of them? When one of the 8 diodes fails this chip is destroyed by the back EMF coming from the ignition coils. The chip itself is available, but the program is not. Now if you can somehow peel the program off of that chip then there are a lot of dead TCIs around that could be repaired.

Puc You are not the first one that was watched going back and forth in the dark.

the R/W is the one that needed it. You do not need to lube the sliders. They are exposed to gas, any lube just slows them down. if the sliders are not free in the bore, then there is dirt either on the slider or the bore. If the diaphragms are sticky, either there is a coating of something on them that needs to be cleaned off or they are deteriorating and need to be replaced.

So did they tell you what all they had to fix/clean/replace?

The bad ignition switches are on the 2nd gens, 1st gens have very few problems there. For testing. while the bike is running connect a jumper wire from battery pos to the brown side of the fuse panel to see if getting full power helps. While a 1 volt drop is not a good thing, and will need to be addressed at some point, I don't think that is your problem.

@billmac you just know I can't help doing a little now and then. I have my share trying to type with these Polish sausages some call fingers.

Glad you found it. Now I can see why it was so hard to find, the post will not be made for another year yet. Hey, What search tool are you using that can tell what will be posted next year anyhow..........

I typically run 5 over per the GPS. Yes the aerodynamics will cause a significant decrease in gas mileage as your speed rises. That does not mean that you are abusing the engine. I almost never cruise at under 4,000 RPM. These engines do not start to make good power till 4,000. I will not run 5th gear if my speed is under 60-65. If you are doing an indicated 65, then you are close to an actual 60, this is just barely fast enough to be out of 4th and into 5th gear. At those speeds you might actually get better gas mileage in 4th gear. On the technical side. Extreme heat and or altitude will make the air less dense, this will require a more open throttle to get the same power. Because the air is less dense you would normally need to lean the fuel mixture, since this is not practical while on the road you end up running a little rich. This will cause a drop in mileage. A simple test While cruising at your desired speed, hold the throttle steady as if you had a throttle lock, Shift one gear up or down without moving the throttle. If you shift down and the bike speeds up, or if you shift up and the bike slows down, you were running the engine to slow and wasting gas, stay in the lower gear for those conditions. things that can change the correct gear to be in for a given speed are wind speed and direction, terrain are you going up hill or down hill, load on bike, aerodynamics of load on bike. There are times that for a given speed but with other factors like wind, if you have a head wind you may need a lower gear for the same speed than if you have a tailwind on the same road at the same speed. There is no one right answer to cover every variable.

Might just be the idle speed adjustment. That is a knob on the left side, under the side cover, between the cylinders, that is made to be turned with your fingers. If you need a screwdriver you are trying to adjust the wrong thing. As mentioned above, some people turn the idle way to slow trying to make it sound like a Harley idling. It ain't a Harley and it does not like being treated like one.

Your correct, 26,600 miles (42,000 km). The 3 and the 2 are to close together for my fat fingers.