Flyinfool

It is normal for the acid to drop a bit on a new battery as all the air bubbles work there way out.

That does not look real difficult to make. But I might need to buy a couple cutters since I do not have CNC.

I type to slow........

Since you downloaded the simplified wire diagram all the connectors are removed. Download the non simplified and it may help a lot more. 6 L/B goes to cruise light on dash. 7 B is ground 8 W/G goes to speedo sensor, other side of sensor is ground. #1 is the R/W that is the wire that goes to the kill switch and is the power feed to the ignition module. I guess that if you kit kill the cruise should turn off too. 9 goes to the anode of a diode and to the flasher relay 10 goes to the anode of another relay and to the side stand switch and the side stand relay. 11, 12 go to the brake light.

I aint never moving.......

Do you by chance have a copy of the drawings?

Clean the wires real good. You have to get all of the oil out of the cloth braid that is over the wires. Pull a half to an inch of wire thru the rubber grommet. Clean the wires real good again getting all oil out of the braid. goop it up with some black RTV. work the RTV into the wire braid. Now pull the wire with the RTV back into the grommet. smooth out the RTV to make a nice fillet around the wires. This is how I did mine 6 years ago and it has not leaked yet.

Sure look little in those tiny pics.

Loctite does make a plastic safe formula. But if you got any of the blue loctite on the plastic while putting the screw thru the hole then you may have problems.

So glad to hear it is nothing to worry about. Ummmmm You weren't already bigger than the technician were you?..........

Glad you made it, at least you looked like you were having fun.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=443&day=2015-3-28&c=1 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=421&day=2014-9-20&c=1 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=404&day=2014-3-15&c=1 AND You are correct, a 1000 machine is not much of an event. The lathe was only 1200 lbs. The surface grinder was 1800 lbs. The mill was only 3800 lbs. They all came down the wooden basement steps with two 90° turns. The mill was a bit of an event, had a good crowd for that one. It was the first machine down there. :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: Nutter mark in book.

Be careful putting better brakes on the rear. It is already very easy to lock the rear so you really do not need or want more brake back there.

If it is a standard then there is no class system, You use a small hand pump to adjust the air pressure to your needs.

Yes I do. But no one from your side of the pond has ever shown up.

It would take me forever to black out all that chrome. But then I have heard rumors that there some folks that actually like chrome.......

I try to remember to list a location for my events.

Yes it could easily be the jumpers dropping the voltage.

The Morgan Carbtune is probably the most popular sync tool on this site. It looks and works like a manometer but it is impossible to suck anything into the engine no matter how far out the sync is. I did buy the kit for the electronic one, once I get it built and try it out, either the electronic or the Carbtune will be for sale, I don't need 2 of them.

Take the battery out of the bike and fully charge it. Then let it rest for a few hours and top off the charge. Then take it into a parts store to have it load tested for free. This will confirm if you have a weak battery or not. Be careful using the charger in start mode. If you leave it on to long you will fry the voltage regulator. If a car/truck battery is still slow cranking then there is some problem on the bike. You can check to see if the engine has a lot of turning resistance by pulling the cover on the left side, just the cover with the 2 JIS screws. Under there you can put a big socket on the flywheel to turn the engine by hand to see if there are any tight spots. Make sure that you are using a socket to grab the flywheel and NOT the flywheel bolt. If you try to turn it over with the flywheel bolt you might break it loose or over torque it depending on which way you turn.

I only said I like the color.........

Gee and I was just gonna say I liked that color.

Did you tape the memory card to @cowpuc forehead so he don't loose it?

Wow that sounds scaaaarrrrryyyy. I am so glad to hear that neither of you got hurt.

Yes you can over fill. The result will be dragging brakes of to the point of locking the wheel. It is somewhat common to have the rear lock up after brake work when it is over filled. What happens is the brakes drag slightly, maybe not even noticeable, but that creates heat. As the fluid gets hotter it expands, the only place to go is to push the pistons out of the caliper, this makes not heat more expansion......... You will first notice what seems like a loss of power untill the brakes finally lock the wheel. If you have a bleeder wrench with you, you can simply crack the bleeder to relieve the pressure and be back on your way. Or just bleed a bit of fluid out until you are at the correct level and not worry about it until you get the screws fixed. But DO keep a wrench to fit the bleeder screws stored on the bike just in case.