gggGary

Quote; "I have new diaphrams but the existing look good." Can't know that unless the lids have been off. that's why I was suggesting he check for the slides all rising.

I would suspect the diaphragm on that tan and white cylinder but it's easy enough to check them all. Also float levels are hard to check, but can make a real difference in running and MPG

Just getting started adding lights I guess. Bought these and after some internal debate about where to put them, drilled and mounted them to the top box, ran the wires inside, used part of an old motorcycle harness so I have a 6 pin disconnect atop the fender to make trunk removal easy. Soldered my leads into the factory tail wires just behind the battery. Thanks Freebird for the how to in tech! Not the prettiest but that rear sure needed more light. Separate strip for brake, turn and running on each side. From flea bay, got 4 red and 4 amber for a total of $18 with shipping. They were brighter than I expected. The running lights are furthest from center and are pointed more to the side so don't appear as bright from directly behind.

Check the slides all rise, especially the one with a white plug. the cylinder will idle and the pipe will get hot but it will never make much power. bike will seem to run fine. On my bike I found this; Very easy to do. A "pro" mechanic's oopsie. goes great now. Could also be dirt in a jet on that white plug cylinder.

And there you have it, for me 2 bikes is a plenty big group.... Besides isn't that what wives, cell phones and texting are for? When I scrapped the audio on the beemer I ended up with a huge glove box right in my lap, what I miss the most about that bike, it was also nice to know the ABS was there if things got ugly.

This one? http://images.craigslist.org/00i0i_7DgiQUX0LAM_1200x900.jpg Looks good, how many miles? For my money forget the onboard electronics and get bluetooth headsets...... Bought a $90 pair from fleabay and rode 4000 miles last year with a bud on a concours, they worked great. I'm just about ready to gut all the audio out of my 99

do this before taking the carbs out. on this set one one diaphragm didn't rise, found this. then did this so it was easy to reinstall diaphragm in the groove. Now the bike is in the groove also. Bike did run "just fine" on 3. But it runs better than fine on all 4. I went in because fuel was leaking out of a couple of carbs. Full disclosure; I just got the "correct" set of float bowl o-rings (hint the K&L parts DO NOT FIT the ventures.) The right ones; [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=width: 60%][TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD]4XV-14562-00-00 O-RING (Yamaha Motor) $6.17[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]In Stock[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD=width: 10%, align: right]4[/TD] [TD=width: 10%, align: right] [/TD] [TD=width: 20%, align: right]$24.68 [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] and will install them and do idle and synch this week. Also note that there are 3 different main jets used it's kind of important to keep them in the right carbs..........

Or as marcarl sez a blocked MC equalizing port. just had that issue with the clutch master cylinder on my 99 Download the RSV service manual if you haven't, it has full brake rebuild info.

No to "emory cloth" on the pistons" if the caliper is torn down I will sometimes hit them LIGHTLY with 1000 or 1500 grit. or a quick spiff up on the buffing wheel. Generally no parts are needed for a caliper R&R.... considering the sticking and general condition you report, a tear down, clean up would be advisable, especially before a long trip into the hinterlands.

A full Caliper R&R is the safest bet, but get out the C-clamp and retract, pump out, the pistons a few times in addition to what you listed. If they are moving smooth and easy you probably have it. Haven't been in the rear on this bike yet but often a BIT of brake fluid on a q-tip wiping around the piston when it's extended helps ensure the seals aren't dry. Gunk (a mix of brake fluid, pad dust, and moisture) always builds up in the grove behind the piston seal over time, the full monte is the only real cure.

I uh,, (reply deleted, idle time limit exceeded)

If it's at all like the 14 connie or St's I can't get comfortable on em, dang it. Not to mention my severe "right wrist twist" problems........

That big tablet has a high dork factor, but my old eyes don't care for small screens. Dork factor of bike and rider smooshed into the back of a stopped semi is high also. PS I am cheap; $100 for the used tablet, Here WeGo with constant map updating is free. tablet also does decent screen size email, web browsing at "mac and dons"

I ran the tablet for 4000 miles mounted on the left handlebar of K1200LT last year, screen was "nearly always" visible. With the blue tooth giving directions into my helmet not that big a deal when it's not.... also thinking of ditching the audio on the RSV and putting the tablet in the same spot on it. A speedo ap puts a nice big accurate! MPH on the screen with the gps. that tablet holder was for mounting to a headrest in a car for kids video viewing, I "garyized" it for the handlebar. it kept the tablet in place no matter how rough the roads.

Been playing musical windshields; stock, show chrome and bagger shield. For the long road that stock shield sure is quiet to ride behind. The showchrome has a slight tint??? not good for night riding. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/BS-TB-YVT.jpg

You mean some give as the bike leans on the stand isn't normal?

Anyone else mount an 8" tablet? I'm thinking vertical from the two bib screws by the gas cap. Android Here WeGo, all the maps you want download when you are at home and it doesn't use data or need cell service. I have it on the tablet (WIFI ONLY) and my Galaxy S5, both blue tooth to my helmet Here routes to one destination at a time, no waypoints. My workaround is to "find" all the waypoints I want to use, then they are in the drop down destination list so it's easy to pick the next waypoint on by the road. Yes phones and tablets running GPS, bluetooth, and the screen tend to get hot.

I was going to say you know you're getting old if you can remember being on a party line..... Then I realized facebook is just a party line with pictures

Wait; how ffffffFASTttttt do you have be going to get a ticket in S Dak?

I do know of a pretty decent 90 near Praire du chien he's asking 1500 hasn't been ridden in years. Never hurts to post up a wanted ad on CL in the MC for sale section. Lots of owners are looking to see what their bike is worth and look at CL I have bought many bikes from wanted ad responses. If you give enough info about what you are looking for and why, guys who wouldn't run a for sale ad (for whatever reason) will often contact you.

Just info on the WISland bike; Thanks. I did love it for many years I got asking price of $3500

Found this; [h=2]Specs for Kenda Rear K671 Cruiser 140/70-16 Blackwall Tire - 046711620C1[/h][TABLE=class: zebra-table padding-fix, width: 540] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Aspect Ratio[/TH] [TD]70[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Diameter - Rim - Motorcycle & Dirt Bike[/TH] [TD]16 in.[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Load Rating[/TH] [TD]65(639 LBS)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Position - Tire/Wheel[/TH] [TD]Rear[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Sidewall[/TH] [TD]Blackwall[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Speed Rating[/TH] [TD]H(130 MPH)[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Tire Classification[/TH] [TD]Cruiser/Touring[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Tire Construction[/TH] [TD]Bias[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Type - Tube[/TH] [TD]Tube or Tubeless[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Units[/TH] [TD]Each[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Weight[/TH] [TD]13.43 lbs[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Width - Tire - Motorcycle & Dirt Bike[/TH] [TD]140[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F2F2F2] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Width - Tire - Motorcycle & Dirt Bike[/TH] [TD]5.50[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TH=class: large-4 small-4 narrow text-left]Width - Tire - Motorcycle & Dirt Bike[/TH] [TD]MU about $80 would mount it on the front hmmmmm[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

He sold it yesterday I asked the selling price, haven't heard back.

bet the wisconsin contingent could arrange a pre-buy inspection for yah.

The odd thing is that even with the fairing split and the headlight frame bolts removed the bulb still isn't that easy to get at, the adjuster screw keeps you from getting it all the way out. I got pretty good after doing 4 bulb swaps trying different watts and an HID bulb. for now the 100 80 lives in it. Will swap out the slightly tinted windshield for a clear one tomorrow.