gggGary

She may be testing the emergency broadcast system or a reminder for you that it's in place. Plug cap; good catch! On older Yammies failed resister caps are common.

Nah I'm not arguing sure anything can be fixed, but for me old bike's are just parts if you have to go into the engine. It's just that there are plenty that DON"T need that amount of extra work and $$$ sunk into them. It's bad enough doing brakes, brake lines, tires, fork seals, carb overhauls, battery, chasing electrical gremlins etc etc.

Will be leaving Wisconsin Oct 1st on the RSV, wandering down and camping, arriving at Barber on Thursday for the weekend's event. http://www.barbermuseum.org/events/barber-vintage-festival/ Went last year for the first time. The track and grounds are a beautiful, exceptionally well run facility. I'll be camped in the B area with the connie riders group. (riding bud is on a connie 1000)

yes about second gear, that gets you coming and going on the 1200's. Any non runner you gotta figure 2nd gear is out. Then the value of any 1200 is dogged by the perception that 2nd gear is gonna go, making the bike scrap. My 2 cents. I bought, rode, and sold a 1200 that had a perfectly good second gear about a decade ago.

Grabbed it off ebay, the 0-60 PSI gauge has good resolution to set both the 7psi front and 45 psi rear. Found my previous settings via the air compressor and stick gauge were um not so accurate or consistent especially that low PSI front setting. The hose and thread fitting were easy to attach to the front and rear valves. It has a bleed button also. $24 delivered quickly. Small enough to carry along. I suppose it could do tire duty. At least to change pressure up or a down a bit. You might get a bit tired airing up a flat LOL

I like this article on grease in connectors, sounds sensible to me... http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm I like to hit a connector with garage door lube or any light lube handy before trying to get it apart any lube really helps unstick the 2 pieces.

No not my wife, um well I'm not TALKING about my wife. Going down hills using engine braking she's been farting. It's still got the air induction system (AIS) in place. Got the repair manual and diagrams out, not too much trouble shooting info in there. So found the valves with help of the diagrams, pulled the intake filter tube off the rear valve and used a mityvac on the vacuum tube I removed from the intake nipple. It pulled and held vacuum, I could feel the valve move with my finger in the intake side of the valve as the vacuum was applied and released. You can also hear the valve move when vacuum is released. Went around to the other side for the front valve and it would't hold vacuum, quickly found a slice in the hose right at the tip of the intake nipple. Clipped a bit of line off and reinstalled. While I couldn't get anywhere near the front valve, once the leak was fixed I could hear it click when I pulled and released vacuum with the mityvac and all is good now. I'm only getting backfires from too much pizza and beer. Like MikeWa says I think keeping pollution controls working is the right thing to do.

Random thoughts from a guy who spent 30 years in retail in several partnerships and as a sole owner. Forget holding tools, that isn't what a business owner needs to do. People skills are #1 So are financial skills LOL Employees will rip you off. Repeat this often. Your co owner will have different goals than you. Have a dissolution plan clearly spelled out. This may save ruining the business later. Yes the auto business is changing, the role for independent shops and repair is shrinking. You have to be willing to reinvent your business on a regular basis What is important to your customer is constantly changing. You will live the business 24/7 it will never be far from your mind. Good luck whatever your choice.

After a recent severe left ankle sprain my range of motion was limited and the stock shift lever was in the way of where I wanted to be able to move my foot, so...... Got rid of the stock lever and chopped off it's mount, welded some misc. steel I had around onto to an ebay inner pivot. Range/effort is about the same, shift Feeling is BETTER, it lost some the stock slop by eliminating links and pivots Gives me more options, lets me move my foot in about an inch should be better for cold and wet weather. Also can slide foot back a lot further for "change of position on longer rides. So far very good, will go put a few thousand on it next month.... Next up; chopping about 1" off the right end of the rear brake pedal. also for more foot room.

Funny I'm 6'3" put about 3K on the 99 and was getting constant upper back pain. Finally added the 1 1/2" barons risers I had snagged on fleabay last month, on Wednesday. Rode 200 miles, BINGO back issues gone. With my +2 ape index I didn't think I needed an extension but what a difference. Cables are "just making it", took off the cable/ handlebar straps, will pull the fairing soon for other work and will look at moving cables to gain a bit of breathing room at (especially) full right lock. As noted by others here before; the bar clamps now hit the black iggy switch surround at the stops, MEH. used a ratchet strap up to the garage door track to support the bars during the install.

Just got rid of a 11 year old stock size Bridgestone Exedra on the front of my 99 It had tread for 4-5000 miles more, but age and poor handling had me swap it out for a VR denizen recommended 130/90/16 size Shinko 777 HD Yesterday. Tire mounted and balanced easily using about 1.5 oz. With in 1/2 hour the danged floor boards were scraping! Seat of the pants sez more direct (quicker) feel. That stock size tire had me holding opposite bar to keep a line through a corner, so unless I was constantly holding bars "out" the bike tended to run wide, it's much closer to neutral now. I did have to adjust the headlight up a bit, so lost a little front ride height. Did some parking lot gymkhana and it seems better at low speed also. When I had the wheel off i found some "centering action" in the steering bearing so new bearings on order. Still thinking on doing the rear link "raise" mod. 14K now 3K of that by me in the last 2 months, and need to check swing arm bushings etc., I haven't touched anything but tire and shock pressure in the rear yet. Stock rear shock, recent rear tire, no oil drips, a bit of weeky weeky from a dry bushing? somewhere in the back.

first strip the clear with paint stripper (the nasty stuff) ventilate, skin protection. Dico wheels are are much better than sand paper especially for complex shapes, they come in three "grits" Gray 80 Orange 120 Blue 240 https://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-784-4-Nyalox-Wheel-4-Inch/dp/B00004YYD9 I like a 4" wheel, chucked in a variable speed electric drill, start with a blue. the others work for deep corrosion but the scratches they make are deep also. You have to be a bit careful they can round off sharp edges. Then black buffing compound on a sisal wheel. wipe part with rag or paper towel and mineral spirits the grit in the buff is held in a wax base the mineral spirits removes the wax and coarse grit finish with white compound on a cotton buff. repeat wipe with mineral spirits. If you are doing alot a bench or pedistal buffer minimum 3/4 horse. wear face and breathinng protection. this is messy work. This will get you to a finish that will wow em for all but "show quality" work. 40 year old "barn find" after a little "rubbing"

Last year on the K bike this year on the RSV too bad it was raining most of my two days on the peninsula this year. Many times in the past, a favorite goto place.

Pull off and tear down the master cylinder you have nothing to lose and it isn't that hard to do. look carefully for leaks they can be very hard to find the handle hitting something may have put immense pressure on the system and blown something out like an MC seal OR hose or hose/fitting connection or even a caliper seal. Worth a pretty thorough inspection. At least it isn't a snake pit ABS system.

101; bike on side stand the more leaned over the better, bars full left, if needed loosen master cylinder so entire path from calipers to reservoir is uphill. Walk away, every 15 minutes or so (not critical) give a quick squeeze release on the lever, give it an hour or two. Good chance it will self bleed. Any air bubbles slowly work their way up and out as long as the WHOLE path is upward. If that isn't enough you can remove calipers and squeeze pistons back in one side at a time. this will tend to get any air caught in the caliper piston area out and on the way up the lines. Wait replace the caliper then lever squeeze the pistons out to the rotor. This has worked for me many times on MANY motorcycles. My 99 exhibited a sticky brake, first squeeze was kind of jerky hinky brake feel was not reassuring. I pulleded calipers one side at a time, cleaned up everything, pumped pistons out a ways, one at a time, cleaned build up off pistons all around, it can be pretty darned stuck on. lightly wiped with a q tip dipped in brake fluid. and pushed them back in. reinstalled caliper, did other side same way, problem solved, brakes MUCH better.

I got almost nicked on the cap difference when I got a replacement tank for an early bike but the seller included the cap all was good! Original tank rusted out left bottom?

The RSV is new to me I sold the K1200LT because of ergo's my 6' 3" frame/legs were cramped, thought I would try feet forward on a bike with cruise. Have put on 3K in the last 2 months will put on another 3K in October. But I'm thinking the gross weight of this bike is just too much. May very well look into a Versys 1000, I would be tempted by an updated Pacific coast type bike with room for long legs and perhaps a bit more wind protection. Straight up though, I am a low rent kinda guy. $1-4K project bikes are my forte'. My wish list Cruise control ABS Brakes but not linked room for long legs back support weather protection low wind noise. 50 MPG plus. 600 pounds or less. If more than that, reverse. provides a cold 6 pack and a hot pizza at the end of the day?

Anything here is just a crapshhot guess. But I'm going with an electronic failure due to heat, what were the air temps? Trike, full load, hills, heavy traffic, all increase heat. I've owned bikes that were notorious for heat related ignition coil failures, once cooled off they went right back to working "just fine". That same bike was also prone to vapor lock type fuel delivery problems also related to high heat situations (KZ1300). Have you added any wind deflectors , other wind blocking items on the front of the bike? The fuel pump sits in a rather "wind isolated" area that probably gets even hotter on a trike conversion. Did you hear anything unusual related to how the fuel pump ran when you turned the key on? IE longer louder operation as it filled low float bowls?

should have looked better while I had the lower fairing apart; has anyone found, removed, cleaned a vacuum pump air filter? As mentioned this bike was very dirty everywhere. Did I mention it was DIRTY? Two hour ride yesterday, cruise is much better now. I think I am mostly even getting the one MPH bump from the switch.

No low fuel light Took the sender out yesterday. It appears by "per the manual testing" the sending "dohicky" is kaput. No light, no "count up" trip meter. Anyone know of an off the shelf replacement? Doesn't look like it would be hard to change with a bit of soldering. It's the metal can at he bottom of the sender assembly it has holes in the end I'll assume; some sort of capacitance measuring circuit. Watching for a cheap "used assembly" on fleabay but......

yes that sounds about like hitting reserve on my 99, Something wrong with your reserve? My low fuel light sender is kaput. So I've been hitting reserve at 180 to 200 miles at 60-65 MPH, If I fuel soon after, I get about 4.5 to 4.9 gallons in so I figure that gives me an easy 50 miles after switching to reserve to find a gas station...... I haven't punched holes in the neck , yet. Gotta look into what I can do to fix the sender. Had it out yesterday and it showed about an ohm on the bench anywhere on red/green to the sender, to ground. So you're new. You are aware of the on off reserve on the petcock LH front of the tank? Handle down is on, forward - off, up reserve position.

Hey you Waskelly Wabbit! that was a DELIBERATE misquote! Not so sure I wouldn't swap the RSV for a K1200LT even up. ONlY serious LT glitch for 6' 3" me was the cramped leg room. I was comparing the cruise controls not motorcycle models. On the other hand; [h=2]BMW R1200C[/h] How was THIS ever let off the drawing board????

Doing the "actuator/pump" test from the manual there is one hot and three "grounds" from the control to the pump. The sound of the pump changes as the various wires are grounded, the actuator didn't move till I got all three grounded.... Prolly not worth the effort but a vacuum from the engine into the circuit might be enough to loose that momentary lag as the pump starts up. The master cruise on off with relay may be part of an agency directive, seems like I recall there is a requirement of (say) 3 completely separate ways to shut off "cruise". I may fiddle with the cable tension adjuster at the actuator, see if it changes the behavior much (or at all). I read the owners manual on cruise again after seeing the above comment and came to same conclusion, it calls for one push to set. Then again it also says a short push on either set or res will change the cruise speed by 1 MPH So far that's not working on my bike....

Pull left covers and look for bubbled paint on the tank. Water sits in the low spots and rusts out the metal. I had an 83 that was slow leaking there, got lucky and found a rust free tank from out west, very reasonable. I was surprised how easy it was to swap tanks.

So my problem was more of a pokey weak cruise than the long delay of the OP. After I got the switches working smoothly I dug into the rest of it. lubed the cables set slack. Still MEH so the tank came off opened and lubed the cable junction and cruise cable end to end found the adjustment nut hanging loose at the vacuum pot. Still not happy so worked cable tension some more. Lubed all throttle shafts on the carbs My vacuum line from pump to cable puller had no clamps and the tube was a bit "not snug" on the nipples so used a bit of sealant and added clamps. Per the service manual I checked pump and actuator with jumpers to the pump connector from the battery hot to the red wire and ground to the other three wires. Gave full throttle motion. In my case probably the biggest problem was that a non stock hand grip was causing less than free throttle action, I put the stock grip back on and now have "RSV normal" cruise. holds on hills accels and decels with bumps of the switches. Still no BMW cruise, but fully functional. For me; Case Closed. Just a heads up that the amount of effort need to move the throttles by pulling the vacuum actuator cable is high even when everything is just perfect. any extra resistance in the throttle assembly will probably drag down the ability of the cruise to work properly. To get access to the pump and actuator both fairing lowers and all the other plastic bits and air cleaners must come off. Bonus shot of my UNI air filters