BlueSky

I've read some good things about fluid film. Ford tech makuloco just put out a video on undercoating. He used something called woolwax that he said he preferred over fluid film because it didn't smell bad like fluid film.

I think I would try removing the idle mix screws and spraying carb cleaner in the hole. Be careful because it's really hard to get the o-ring out. you will think it isn't there but it is and carb cleaner might ruin it. Your best try might be to use cowpuc's method. Do a search and read about his method. An animal syringe injecting carb cleaner through the drain. You need to get the details from him because he explains how much to inject.

Seems to me that the drain plugs are not oe. They usually have a drain hose attached so that they can be loosened and the carb will drain.

When it happens remove the gas cap. If there is a vacuum, the vent is plugged. Without being able to troubleshoot it when it happens, you are left with shotgunning it. It does sound like a heat related electrical problem to me. Plugs one heat range hotter might be a good thing but it has nothing to do with your problem.

this training video shows how to sync and adjust the idle mixtures. The idle mix screws are shown at about 4 minutes into the video.

My 89 has those fuses but I don't know what they power. Evidently, one of those fuses is a spare. Okay, I went out and looked again with a wiring diagram and the fuse is labeled (CLASS) on the diagram.

You can adjust the idle mixture screws. Turn them in with the engine running until the rpm slows down and then back them out a tad. I would gently screw them in all the way with the engine off before I started just to see how many turns out they are and them return them to their original position before starting the engine and adjusting with the engine running. Screwing them in leans out the idle mixture. Ideally, the carbs should be synced at the same time the mixture is adjusted.

Just crack the drain valve leaving the tube on it. then jury rig the baster to the tube. If that carb had no fuel in it, how could it be the one draining fuel on the floor?

The partzilla.com parts fische shows a pump with two straight connections if that means anything?

My personal smelly opinion is that it is best to drain them because the fuel will dry up leaving some residue.

I used to ride in the cold with a full face helmet and a ski jacket that was made with hollow fibers. It had a high collar. The cold did not penetrate that jacket at all. I still have that jacket but, alas, it must have shrunk over the years because I can't zip it up now. Currently, I have a heavy coat that I wore when I worked in Wisconsin. that and a full face helmet will keep my upper body warm except for my hands. Leather chaps for the legs might work.

A rust particle could have gotten under the seat. Drain and refill that carb a few times to see if it will flush it out. Maybe Cowpuc will chime in and give better instructions. He's the master.

No need to winterize the bike around here. Just put on a thicker coat! Snow is a rare and fleeting thing.

You will be very close to the Vogel event next year!

My 85 Kawasaki tank had some rust inside. All I did was to remove it, slosh the gasoline around and dump it. I filtered the gas through a paper shop towel and repeated. Of course I also removed the petcock and made sure it was clean. And I installed a filter. So far I haven't had any problems with the filter plugging or carbs plugging because of rust particles. Coating the tank is probably the best solution if done correctly.

Supposed to get up to 80 today in Wilmington NC and then drop tomorrow to the 60's.

It's a dog eat dog world out there. We should always keep our interests and family's interest tops in our priorities. Putting the employers interests first is a bad idea. I was always happy to see the end of my temp contracts. I smiled with the plant in my rear view mirror. I always tried to get a week or two off between jobs and was happy to go to the next one. But, it isn't for folks who worry about not being employed all of the time. "Permanent" employees are a thing of the past unless you work for the guvment.

Our local Lowes could use you for sure. A few months ago when we went to Lowes for a kitchen cabinet quote, we spent a couple of agonizing hours with the woman kitchen designer who could use their program. She blamed the program. Another place we went to did it in about 15 minutes. Best wishes with the new jobs. When I got "downsized" at age 50 (It gave the co. a good excuse to get rid of 20 yr guys who were building up too much of a retirement package), I worked as a temporary engineering contractor until I retired at age 70. I did about the same job for different nuke plants but I got paid more and got paid for every hour. I liked working temp contracts. Suited my independent streak and had very little trouble staying employed. I worked in WI twice for a couple of years total and in 13 states in all from NY to FL to AL to NE.

I saw as much on the underwear commercial on tv a few minutes ago............

I was also wondering why you hadn't socialized with us lately. Sorry to hear about having to deal with health issues and hope you get better and keep up with our social/tech site. We need all the help we can get! Most of us old coots have something health related to deal with.

You may have to remove the carbs and get them cleaned. But, I'd try putting a bottle of Gumout for high mileage engines with PEA in the gas and running it through first to see if that would help.

The fuel petcock on my 89 is so stiff that I have to use pliers to turn it. From what I have seen on this site, that may be typical.

You didn't mention the popping or the exhaust leaks in your original post.

Freebird, How are you doing if you don't mind providing an update. I hope you are feeling better and your balance is back to normal.