BlueSky

I learned this lesson last year when I replaced my riding lawn mower engine. I was using an air operated ratchet and I stripped the threads in the block on a small bolt. It wasn't a huge problem. I just tapped the hole larger and used a larger bolt but it taught me a lesson about using power tools on aluminum.

Good point. Something to consider. I'll know more the next time I get my RSV up on the stand. I'd like to try to remedy this situation. There is a chance it can reduce the lockup problem with the rear brake or might even make it lock up quicker.

Well the point I was trying to make by posting the video link was to show that you just might be able to center the caliper with shims or washers or even grinding the front if you are careful. I'm going to try the washer. After I get my RSV back up on the jack I'm going to measure the front of the caliper to see how far off center it is and see if I can do something about it. Laying on the floor looking at it, it appeared to be closer to the inboard side, the opposite of the rear of the caliper. If so, it may take some grinding to center it. But the washer will probably center the caliper in the rear. I'll take a good look at it soon.

Thank you Sir for the video. I plan to use that washer idea.

After looking at the caliper position on my RSV, it would appear that Yamaha didn't machine the caliper holder (for lack of a better word) to center the caliper on the rotor. And from all the discussions, it would appear that Yamaha was consistent with all the RSVs. So, I strongly suspect that if the caliper was centered on the rotor, the pads would wear evenly. That's the why. Poor mechanical desgin by Yamaha.

This is a good reason to try to center the caliper on the rotor so the uneven wear may not happen. It's worth a try I think.

That's a really good point about not removing the left side muffler. Evidently, the video guy is relying on his calibrated arms to torque the axle nut correctly. I think I'd rather use a torque wrench! When I was 19 and even more ignorant than today, I rebuilt the engine in my 56 Chevy Convertible reassembling it without using a torque wrench on the head bolts, rod bolts, and main bearing bolts. I drove it very hard for about 7,000 more miles before trading it and it held up that far!!!?? My next rebuild at age 24 was on a 65 Chevelle 327 engine and I had access to the US Army craft shop that had torque wrenches so I used them that time. Man, those cars were so easy to work on.

I just looked at my RSV's rear caliper with the bag off and it is not centered on the disc. It is mounted more to outboard side at the rear of the caliper. The front of the caliper is a little the other way it appears. So, I think the washer may be a good idea because it probably will center the caliper on the disc at the rear of the caliper. After I remove my caliper and if the inside pad is worn more than the outside pad I think I will add a washer like the video suggested to see if that helps.

I watched the attached video. At about 2.22 of the video, the guy says the inboard brake pad wearing more than the outboard pad is an issue with these RSVs and adding a washer will correct the issue. Do any members have experience with this to pass on?

Sounds like you have been having a great time! Fantastic!

Fantastic news Charley!!!! Cowpuc will be proud!

Man, I'm sorry to hear that. Hopefully it isn't that serious and you will be on your way pdq.

With a narrower tire on the front, I would suspect it would be a little easier to drop the bike.

My 07 seems to sit low since I have trouble getting the jack under it. I was wondering if it was lowered but the caliper is on top so I suppose it is not lowered. Thanks Freebird for that bit of information!

some of those engines have lifter problems. Get it checked out.

see if this helps https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1983/xvz12tk/oil-filter

Title should have been Mo grass to Mow!

Yep, I would talk to him politely and go back the next time. Everybody makes mistakes. Maybe he was having a bad day.

I'm sure the majority will say replace them, but I'd probably run them unless I was going to run it for hours at 100mph across the southwest desert like Cowpuc! I just replaced the worn out rear tire on my Kawasaki that was 15 years old. It was 5 yrs old when I bought it from The Motorcycle Superstore. The front I'm running some more because it isn't worn out yet and it is 11 yrs old. The front tire on my RSV recently acquired is 12 years old, 23k miles on it with some tread left, and I am replacing it with new along with the punctured 5 yr old rear tire. Don't do what I do! Ha!

Like I posted previously, there are several videos of guys who replaced the HF jack with an air operated jack. The modification did require a little welding.

Sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders or maybe even one. The first thing to check is the compression. If the compression is good, then it may be worth spending money to fix everything else. If the compression is low, adjust the valves and recheck. If the compression is still low, the engine needs a rebuild.

I couldn't open the link but HF has put out a 25% discount coupon that is good for only July 4. The biggest complaint I've read about is that the jack fails often due to the seal leaking. But, there are videos on utube that shows how to install an air operated jack in its place taking all the work out of jacking up the table.

Only 15kmiles on it!

Yes, my 89 has a reserve position. It also has a lever but I need pliers to turn it.