dna9656

OK, I have oil leaks on at least 2 of those covers (The 88 parts catalog, crankcase section, Item 10, P/N 26H-15417-01-00) on the outside and outboard side(s) of the cylinders. They are the covers with the black stripes on them... I see in the '88 Parts Catalog there are 2 rubber parts per each cover; Item 11, DAMPER, Engine Mount, P/N 26H-15326-00-00 and Item 14, PLUG, P/N 90338-11152-00 (Plug, Special Shape). Well 90338-11152-00 (Plug, Special Shape) can be had ($8.14 EACH thank you! BOHICA!) on Amazon, but "0" results for 26H-15326-00-00. So, what are we doing to perform a fix for this issue? I am sure I saw a post for this problem sometime in the past but couldn't find it. I bet we're filling the well cleaned hole with a high temp silicon gasket goo right? If so what type and brand please!!!

Thanks Kevin!

By the way there are 10 Yamaha videos on line (maybe at www.ventureres.org (com?) ) but anyway.... The Military calls them Lube Cards or Charts used on vehicles and equipment...shows every place there's a need for lube and what to use... handy... You're right, a good mech has basic (and advanced) knowledge of mechanical movements and what should get the "goo". It's just as important to use the RIGHT goo as it is to goo the thing up at all! I came across a lot of charts on line recently, charts that compare greases... soapy vs lithium and so on...what grease is compatible with other greases... trouble is those charts compare Joe Blow's grease with others grease(s), it's not comprehensive(ie) it doesn't compare all (of or many) of Joe Blow's grease or specific grease(s) with other specific grease(s). So, you have to dig in and read it all... a real PIA!

Yamaha's TSB M2005-017 says this: Models equipped with shaft drive offer the advantage of reduced maintenance compared to chain drive. However, normal maintenance is not eliminated. One often overlooked shaft drive maintenance procedure is the periodic application of grease to final drive splines, and rear wheel clutch components, and the examination of their associated seals. This should be done whenever the rear wheel is removed, such as during a tire change. Use Yamaha Multipurpose Grease (P/N: ACC-GREAS-16-TB) or equivalent. All we have to do now is figure out what the equivalent is and we'll have this figgered out! I couldn't bring the illustration from the Adobie file and the italics, bolt and underline are mine for emphasis.

Well, the "STEALER" (otherwise known as the DEALER but called the derogatory nom de plume for the prices they charge) is the last place I would go for tires or parts. $135.00 to change a tire on the front of my Road Star is crazy. Buying a tire there and paying more than $20.00 irks me; on the Shaft Drive Venture or any bike's front tire. Now I'm prolly going to get into trouble here.... The dealer makes $$ on the tire and then wants upwards of $100.00 to change it for you? I change my own.... The dealers I have used won't do ONE thing that's not (a CYA thing I'm sure and i can't blame them) on the work order and if it is on the W/O they (that's how they make their $$ but it seems I'm always the guy they are making the Month on) charge for it. There was a Triumph Dealer down the road that charged $20.00 per if you brought the wheels in... i was all over that... but they closed up, couldn't sell enough Triumphs or charged too little to change tires, i don't know which it might have been. RS Ventures aren't Venture Royales but I know nothing (mechanically) about them. Are they shaft or belt drive? I know shop rates are crazy high and the book shows an hour to change a tire, a Suzuki dealer once told me that he know he could get 1 hour for a tire change but felt that it was too expensive and guys wouldn't buy anything else from him if he charged the hour labor.... OK rant over! I'd just like to know if Yamaha ever recommended (since it's not in the SM it would have to be a TSB) lubing the pins or if it's just good shop practice....

I can't find a recommendation in the Service Manual to lube these parts. I searched the TSBs I have for this issue and have found nothing. It may be "best shop practice" and that's fine but curiosity demands to know if Yamaha ever addressed it in writing.... Yes i lube the ones on my bikes because allthe old heads here on the forum say to, but still....Just sayin'!

I always make sure there's no water in my trunk or travel bags (by wiping them out with Momma's best bath towel) then they never leak....

Thanks for the benefit of your direct experience! Yes my bike is an ;88 and the forks have 2 major differences so far as my limited experience goes; the brakes are dual piston on the '88 and the anti-dive units are designed differently. The cool thing about the 83 to 85 forks is that they can be upgraded with "R-1" (I may have this confused with "R-1000) dual piston brake calipers. These calipers are dual or quad piston design, I don't remember which but they are a bolt on mod with the toughest part being the brake hoses. Skydoc has a kit for this mod and other cool stuff too. Check him out here on the forum!

So I put all but a little of a 16 OZ. bottle of oil in one tube (the book calls for 13.8) so there is more than the prescribed 13.8 OZ. I cycled (no pun intended) the fork tube up and down several times while I poured the oil in (no gurgling) and the level is as precisely at 5.5" from the top as I can get it (I used a vernier caliper to measure the depth of the oil from the edge of the tube) so I KNOW that's correct.....

It seems to fit just fine! Thanks a lot for your help Carl!

Well, I like the idea of using Yamaha's shouldered washer and spacer becasue it has an "O" ring on it providing extra sealage (well, you got leakage; why can't you have "sealage"?) and there is no plastic in the tube. So, spring, OEM washer and spacer, then the plug! I'm glad I don't have to use the plastic plug; that causes way more force to over come on the threaded cap! Magilla Gorilla doesn't stop and play with me any more so I would be pushin' that baby down alone! THANKS!!!

Maybe I missed a post, maybe I'm being redundant but I need some assist with this: I'm installing Progressive Suspension's (PS) Progressive Springs. What's done: I have the forks together, I tightened the 10mm hex screw with the 3/8" impact gun because I could not get a hold of the special tool and "T" handle Yamaha specs to do this job. I got the fork oil at 5.5" even though the book says 13.8 OZ. (so I'll need to know if I have to add/subtract oil too...) I cycled the fork (I have completed only one tube of the fork in the hopes of correcting only one if I screwed it up. Now the next question: Do I use ALL these parts or only some and in what order are they installed? I know the threaded cap goes last (duh) but the plug(?) with the "O" ring(?) I donno; the factory washer or the PS spring? the PS spacer? the PS washer? I posted another question yesterday that got missed too: PS says if you have 2 springs (I think they mean in the tube separated by a washer) they want you to remove one. This spring is in the lower tube so I think it's excluded (left in) Does anyone know fro sure please?

What a good thing top do! It belongs in the tech files!

Progressive Suspensions says (follow and defer to the OEM instructions to service your fork. You also have to keep in mind that you are modifying the fork so you sort of have to blend the instructions (PS and OEM) along with the guidance and advice you can get here from others who have done exactly what you're doing with the same exact bike. So, add 5.5" oil (measured from the top of the tube) of fully closed fork, cycle the fork up and down fully several times to ensure the air is all out; this further ensures the oil levels are the same. (making SURE you have re-installed the drain screw and the anti-dive units; THEN install the springs, washer, and spacer, if used. THEN torque the hex drive bolt to 14 LBS. Progressive Suspensions says while it's very important that the oil levels are the same I can't imagine the difference in the oil level being that much different when measured with the forks at a 90 degree angle VS. the angle they are in when installed on the bike. As stressed in the PS instructions it's really important that they are the same. The springs are longer and heavier (the gauge of spring wire) than the OEM springs so they will displace more oil than the OEM springs. When you see the springs side by side you can better appreciate the difference and the amount of oil displacement.

I have NOTHING to back up what I'm going to add.... I found some light brown peeling stuff from the rubber manifolds on all my bikes. I think it'sd glue the factory uses to hole them in place until the assembly makes it to the run and tune stop where they tighten the rubber and tune that baby up!

The Progressive Suspension variable rate springs for my '88. Oil level is 5.5" from the top (Prolly measured from the back of the tube) with forks collapsed and nothing in the fork (no spring or spacer installed), IE do this first! The Instructions say to remove the small spring and the washer between it and the big spring. Well, I don't have that set up; my small spring isn't in the same tube as the big spring so the small spring stays? The plastic spacers supplied with the spring kit, do I use them, do I shorten them, if so how much. figure passenger wt. as 400lbs. Do they go on top of the spring? What is the order of assembly after the spring is in? I think the spring goes in, then the washer and then the spacer. What goes in next? How is the inner tube held while torquing the screw with the copper washer/seal? I temp installed a progressive spring hoping it would provide enough downward force to allow me to torque the screw to the spec'ed 14 ft.lbs but no joy!

I have a fridge, microwave, a coffee pot,a butcher block work bench from Costco (too nice to work on, ya know?), TWO (count them TWO) HF motorcycle lifts, a floor jack that is strong enough to lift what I am responsible for, a steel work bench, roll about tool box from HF, it has 3 drawers and bottom shelf and a closable top with the drop down side table, I have a stainless steel tool box (bought before I married said beautiful wife), my air hose (supplied by a 80 gal. Campbell Hausfield compressor that's out side the shop) is on a retractable reel like you find in a professional shop, I have the 60" LED and a computer on it so I can view the manuals on it VS. the little pics in the service manuals. I can also go on line and look up parts, find help (like I find here so often!) and soon it will be heated so I can be out there for more than a half hour in the winter! We have a table saw, drill press, skil saws, sanders, heat gun, numerous other power tools. She's helping sort out and place into those little drawers thousands of screws, nails, etc! Nearly all of this is because my wife supports my hobbies (I have a guitar or two...) and for some reason loves me very much. Most humbling. I am very thankful of and for her! She's the BEST!

Well my beautiful wife and I got the "OLD 60" LED TV" up on the wall in the shop! Soon I'll be looking at the Yamaha manual in beautiful 60" LED splendor! I have to set up the computer and that involves find a home (place to put it) along with the two stereo tuners I have out there. I won't need an antenna as we can listen to our favorite radio stations via the internet! I have a CAT 5 line running under ground out to the shop. Pics when I'm further along!

What are you doing with that fork my friend? Do we want to know?

_ _ _ _ sure happens; trust me, I know!

What is the difference in these part numbers? is it the "Yamaha Black" (paint?) or what? 1983: FRAME COMP (26H-21110-02-33) | YAMAHA BLACK Not Available 41R-21110-00-33 REAR FRAME: REAR FRAME COMP. (26H-21190-02- | YAMAHA BLACK Not Available 26H-21190-03-33 How come the number "26H-21190-02- l doesn't have a digit at the end? 1984: FRAME COMP (26H-21110-02-33) | Yamaha Blk Not Available 41R-21110-00-33 Rear Frame: REAR FRAME COMP. (26H-21190-02- | Yamaha Blk Not Available 26H-21190-03-33 How come the number "26H-21190-02- l doesn't have a digit at the end? 1985 Frame P/Ns: FRAME COMP (26H-21110-02-33) | YAMAHA BLACK Not Available 41R-21110-00-33. Rear Frame: REAR FRAME COMP. (26H-21190-02- | YAMAHA BLACK Not Available 26H-21190-03-33 How come the number "26H-21190-02- l doesn't have a digit at the end? I'm thinking the difference has some thing to do with what ever "Yamaha Black" is.

Sounds like a sticky situation.

I like the downloaded factory manual, except the fact that the wonderful people that do all the scanning to make it available for down load didn't edit it so it's searchable or make the pages jive with adobie's page count. I HAD a 40" TV (the mother in law moved away (hooray!) and didn't want to take her 40"er TV so I bought it) but that went to my step son (who moved in with us) so... we replaced the 60" in the L room with a 70" HD. So.... that left the 60" available for shop use. So now it's going out to the shop as soon as I can get the wall mount installed. There's nothing like a HUGE picture of what ever to help you along~!

I have 2 or 3, PM me or anyone else that's interested!

All; So, now that it's put together correctly (with Prairie Hammer's & Skydoc's help and input) I have another question; With the Inner (upper) tube still installed in the triple tree when sliding the tube, outer 1 (& 2) up the assemble how is the seat plate, spindle, and washers kept in place when sliding down the lower tube? I received the "pistons" (wide bushing on the bottom today and installed them. See pics from earlier posts. The ones found on the bike spun freely in the installed location, the new ones with turn by hand with a bit of resistance, lots tighter than the ones i removed so I guess it was a good thing to replace as well.