dna9656

Waiting for those little, tiny washers!

So can you give me the P/N of the upper bushing Yamaha no longer offers? I got the pistons and the slide and I got the little ^%$#*&^& washers. Do you mean that aluminum piece just below the "Piston"?

Any one know of a free video hosting site?

ok, got it!!!

I'm in the process of rebuilding my forks. Look at my post(s) and you'll get quite an education. In my 88 there are THREE washers but Yamaha calls one a SPRING, valve, (it's own P/N (that's the wavy one) and the other two (Flat and Yamaha calls them "washers" share the same P/N and they go one both sides of the SPRING, valve forming a stack. The fork needs these in each tube.

I removed the "piston" on each side of the fork and installed the 2 seals above and the slider, metal. I have new copper washers to use on the 10mm Allen bolt when I put the outer lower back on. Right now I'm waiting on new pistons. It out to be a pretty nice fork when I'm done. I sure appreciate y'alls help, patience, and understanding! And what about that drawing! WOWZERS! Thank you Prarrie Hammer!

The tech article didn't show the steel things with the seal.... so I needed to know how the seal thingy was installed. I hope my prev. corrected post is correct.

I got the Oil lock (Top Hat) off and found the 3 washers inside not wedging the 2 parts together. I take it the proper way to install the oil lock (top hat) is shown in your wonderful drawing? The "TOP HAT" or Oil Lock is 2 pieces pressed together; as mentioned above the 3 washers (are no longer) inside as I separated the 2 pieces. In the Photo they are on the right and re-joined. The so called "spring washer" is a pretty _ iss poor example of a spring washer and the other 2 washers are not flat either. 2 of the washers must be the "flat" ones as they are the same color, sort of copper in color, maybe plated... the other is defiantly different and PRETTY FLAT. Now the pictures in the tutorial don't show the steel piece that I have. The part that is pressed into the steel part with the black seal looks like the one in the instructions but the pic in the instructions has no steel seal part New info: Been out in the shop.... Like so?

Well; Thanks to your drawing, $12.00 and my own $12.00 per I FINALLY GOT what you have been getting at! I got a light and a poky (pointed tool) and found the three washers you're talking about! They are INSIDE the "Top Hat"! How are they replaced? They must be replaceable as they are listed separately in the parts Illustrated Parts Breakdown (IPB), Exploded Parts View (EPV) or what ever you'd like to call it... I GENTLY tried to separate the top hat from the shaft and that worked ok but what is the procedure to replace these washers? The "Top Hat" doesn't seem to want to come apart.... So since I was looking in the lower (outer) tube for washers and there weren't any and I could NOT UNDERSTAND how the washers could have "fallen out" of the lower (outer tube) as any washer in the lower (outer tube) had to be 2" or so in diameter I figured they were missing and ordered them. So, I am pretty sure I can cancel the 4 flats washers but am unsure of the 2 spring washers I got the 4 at $6.60 each and the spring for $15.?? each. Should I just get these washers and hold on to them for my own or other's (sell them) use or cancel the orders? I have also misteakenly (arg, arg, arg) ordered an extra set of sliders, metal.... I got the parts apart, they were assembled incorrectly by a PO I suppose Considering the shape these washers are in I think I'll just replace them.

Found and ordered 4 Wave or spring washers P/N 26H-2319L-00-00 and 2 of the P/N 26H-2319M-00-00 flat washers. Those washers are just NOT in the assembly. Correction: I reviewed my order and I actually (from 2 different places) ordered 2 of the "L"s and 4 of the "M"s. I put it this way because the P/Ns are the same except for the "L" and "M" letters in the P/Ns. P/N 26H-2319L-00-00; flat washer, fork, (washers) P/N 26H-2319M-00-00; Spring valve ("Spring" washers)

That's ok, I'm lost too!

OK, so how does one remove the "piston" from the tube?; pry it enough to fit over the ring below? How does one install the metal slide, metal?

I just gave 3m pretty good "yanks" on those (they did not come out of the upper....) skinny tubes, I could feel the spring inside working just a little bit but I don't feel confident YANKING any harder, unless further encouraged to do so. I DO think some one that's no M/C mech. (the PO said his mech. wasn't a M/C mech. ... Imagine that!) worked on this bike and reassembled the fork incorrectly. I ordered the 2 pistons from Partszilla today. They are on eBay cheaper but I had other items to order to so it worked oyt that Partszilla was reasonable. So I noticed that there is a seal (oil) at the bottom of the upper (outer) tube. Does this seal need to come out to get the skinny rod out?

The only washers I have seen are the ones pictured; besides the little copper washer (seal) used behind the Allen head bolt that holds the lower BOTTOM (outside tube) to the outside UPPER tube. I have not gone beyond the picture(s) I have posted so the dampening rod (the skinny one) has not been removed to see if there are and washed inside the UPPER OUTER TUBE. I have gently pulled on the skinny rod; it sure feels like it has to come out the other end of the upper outer tube that's still clamped in the triple tree.

I'm prolly getting responses between you and Earl confused!!!! Here is what to do next accding to the inst. on the http://www.venturers.org site: You will see the inner fork damper rod (complete cylinder) hanging out of the bottom of the top tube. If the oil lock piece and three special see 3 washers are they in the upper tube? washers are still on it, consider yourself good. Otherwise use the magnetic pickup tool to remove them from the lower tube. Be sure you have all four pieces. Check the oil lock piece for wear, if its worn, replace it (OEM price $46 US each). This piece must work or your EAND air suspension won't!! How does the skinny tube with the "TOP HAT" (Seat, plate) come out of the upper tube?

The seat,plate isn't to be had for love nor money. I haven't been "IN" the upper tube that the shaft with the oil seal, dust seal and 2 washed pictured. I have only gone as far as the picture shows. The WIDE bushing at the bottom is (I think) the "piston"...I wonder why Yamaha shows the oil lock on (every one I have seen) Upside down? Is this oil lock being upside down why the forks bottomed out?

To ALL: I'm sorry, I didn't mention the model year of my Bike, It's an '88, XVZ13U.

So what do you think of the pictures in the above post? Those wider, lower bushings (I have since learned are "PISTONS and can be purchased), I doubt the parts bikes I have would have any in better shape, i do have a 1300 fork of unknown condition. How should I proceed, use these bushings with heavier fork oil? Try to find a (I have a 1200 83.5 fork that was working just fine) better fork? I have R-1 brake master cylinder and calipers....Some one mentioned that you have made bushings in the past....do you still do that? If so we should talk....

I would ditch the old caps and ignition wire then put in new plugs, new everything. When you get the new caps you see what the other guys were explaining much better.

Here are some pictures of the lowest bushings. About 1/3 has a brass (sorta) color and the other 2/3s is gray or black (if you chose) in color. the pictures show the different ares. Both sides have the same 1/3 / 2/3 wear. Now I have plenty of extra forks on the 85 and below parts bike, I also have another 1300 cc bike fork whose condition is unknown but they sure aren't cosmetically as nice as the pair I have on the bike.

Well apparently there are no free video hosting sits besides youtube and they said they would get back with me in 3 to 5 days about my pass word.

Here's your very own easy to read Service manual and it's FREE!!!! Now, get yourself a computer and a large screen TV (monitor) out in your shop and you'll be able to see the pictures better, that aren't so bad once they are 12" square! http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

OK, I got out to the shop today and cleaned up both lower outer tubes, chased the threaded holes with taps, and chased the bolts/screws with a die and wire wheeled the threads. Cleaned the aluminum casting with brake clean and paper towels. Had a stuck copper washer on one side that was fun getting out but I got it! Now on to the point of confusion. The picture below is what I have on the cylinder ID'ed as "Cylinder Front Fork" Item 12 on the Parts Fitch. Seals and washers on left. This is hanging out the of the tube shown in the pic o the far left. Do these 2 bushings at the bottom need to be replaced? I can get the P/N 3JJ-23125-00-00 Metal Slide, I don't know if the WIDE one is the Metal Slide or the NARROW one is but the METAL SLIDE is available. I suspect the one that can slide up and down is the slide! Your input would be appreciated! I have a video where I ask if these parts need to be replaced. Apparently Photo Bucket no longer supports hosting vids so to not waste the entire evening trying to find a site that hosts vids for free please ask to have me send it to you! From the top I have the dust seal (item 8 on the Fitch), (the oil seal clip; item 5, is not in in place), next, the oil seal washer, (item 20 in the Fitch), the oil seal (item 6 on the Fitch), the upper spring (is this washer a wavey washer or a washer that is used with a spring? As you can see I have TWO flat/conventional washers, no wavey washer, nothing like that) washer, the metal slide 1, then (what I call) a bushing; it's hard to see, it's about an inch long and is split and called a seat plate, it looks a lot like a bushing to me.....plates are flat, that's why we eat off of them or use them for clutches..... The instructions are on www.venturers.org He's working on a XVZ13DS/DSC. It says this at step 16: You will see the inner fork damper rod (complete cylinder) hanging out of the bottom of the top tube. If the oil lock piece and three special AHHH DIFFERENT AREA!!!! washers are still on it, consider yourself good. Otherwise use the magnetic pickup tool to remove them from the lower tube. Be sure you have all four pieces. Check the oil lock piece for wear, if its worn, replace it (OEM price $46 US each). This piece must work or your EAND air suspension won't!! I count TWO washers on mine, where is the THIRD Special washer? I can't find that P/N on any page in the Yamaha Parts Catalog, at Boats.net or Partzilla.com. Near as I can tell the guy is talking about what must be a discontinued part or one that has changed. Here's his parts list: 2 YA26H-23144-00-00 SEAL DUST 2 YA1NL-23145-00-00 OIL SEAL FORK 2 YA26H-2319L-00-00 WASHER FORK 1 EACH SIDE 4 YA26H-2319M-00-00 SPRING WASHER AKA WAVE WASHER**** 2 YA3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL SLIDE FORK BUSHING 2 YA3JJ-23171-00-00 PISTON, BUSHING ***This is the one I don't have and no one on the Internet has it. So, has this gone away or is there a new P/N?*** Do I not need this part?

The more you spend on tires the longer it'll last, USUALLY! The surface you ride affects the longevity of tire tread. Smooth asphalt is really easy on tires but that 30 year old concrete out there on the Interstate or down town is rough, really rough and will be harder on your tires. Most of the weight is in the back of the bike so....it's VERY important to keep your tires at the factory max PSI (measured when they are COLD, not after you drive to where ever the nearest air compressor is) for max mileage and performance.

Hooray!!!!