dna9656

The spring(s) I pulled out of the forks are of the progressive style (I don't know who made them) and they are both the same length---18" the replacement progressive branded and progressive style or type are 20 3/4"long... If they were the same brand and model it seems they shrank a lot! Not hard to figure out why the forks were bottoming out! So with this length difference would I need a spacer with the new springs?

Holy Smokes Earl! What a post! Have you ever seen those concrete drains in a asphalt parking lot that have too long 'wings" and a dip in the middle? Kinda like a parenthesis with the curve taken from the top and bottom. As I rode over one at an oblique angle the fork bottomed out; it was worse when the angle got closer to the 90., Absolutely no feel of any oil action (like a shock absorber), so when I pulled the springs I could see they were the progressive style. I haven;t compared them side to side or measured them yet. My eldest son (in his early 30s) got his tonsils remover last week and had bleeding complications this weekend and ended up in surgery to stop it today so I haven't had the opportunity to look at it. It has been a BIG DAY here. I have no proof of what I'm about to say but I bet they use the distance from the top method on the assembly line as it's faster....easier. I found an appreciable difference in the amount of oil from one tube to the other; due to a seal being bad more so than a poor filling job. I bought all my parts (the 4 Yamaha recommends be replace & those are all I have on hand) from Yamaha, and a set of new progressive springs from the Progressive Spring Company. Are there others you would replace? I'm using the instructions given on the VentureZRider.org site. I would welcome any tip or how to you would like to offer! If you want to come by I always have some cold ones on hand!

OK, I got the fork apart today following the instructions provided on www.Venturers.org. When removing the caps on top of the tubes the preload (the springs pushing up in the fork cap) was pretty WEAK! I haven't done a side by side comparison of the springs yet but it's first on the list for tonight AFTER I change the read brake rotors on the Sebring. I drained an uneven amount of greenish fork oil from each tube. I found a pair of progressive (TYPE, NOT BRAND NAME OF SPRING) in each tube. I purchased two 16 OZ. of Lucas 15wt. fork oil. The tubes are completely disassembled (almost) so I will be working on them this week.

So I got the fairings and everything else off (except the anti dives and what's on top of the fork assembly I'll remove them in the AM) necessary to get the fork tubes off. Who's commin over to supervise the disassembly, overhaul and the reassembly of not only the forks but the rest of it as well tomorrow?

Mark's response to what happened: They were snug just to get in. I replaced the seals (didn't see any damage) and the surfaces were very good and clean so it wasn't any fault there. I just greased the seals and then the base of the piston. I then used the palm of my hand to roll the piston while applying pressure (I've done quite a few so I know whats right) and they went in nicely (took about ten minutes) Then gave them a bit of a clean (nothing mega but nice). And that's all he said; but I can tell you they were pretty tight!

My friends rotated the HF lift, backed the 83.5 off of it, moved the HF lift in front of the 88 and used the engine to get the bike up on the lift. Using tie down straps we secured the bike so we could stand it up. With a Venom M/C jack we raised the bike up to the point where the center stand could be lowered and properly park the bike. I rebuilt the rear brake Master cylinder and the rear caliper yesterday. Using Wal mart parts cleaner I got a lot of old, greasy (prolly brake fluid) from the underside of the bike. I'll pick up some engine oil (I have several oil filters on hand) and take care of that little (currently over serviced) issue and at the same time take a look at the coolant issues. Soon I will be removing the wheels and tires to look at/replace the wheel bearings and lube the drive shaft ring and pinion and the 5 fingered rubber coupling on the rear wheel. The progressive springs arrived today in a box that measures 6" 16" X 20" packed diagonally and supported with packing paper. I wonder why the just didn't tape the box shut and put a stamp and address label on it! Wifie is picking up the 9 pc hex head (Allen wrench) 3/8" & 1/2" dive set at HF for me on her way home from her work. It has the 17mm hex needed to work on the fork.

Found the rear Shrader valve (there is so much I used to know that have forgotten in the past 2 years I haven't been riding) for the rear shock, it even had air pressure in it. I looked up the range and put 60 PIS in there. Somewhere I remember having the collars (bought on Ebay I think) used to pressurize the forks, I don't think i got around to installing them, i will start looking around, they will prolly appear as i slowly straighten out the MESS that has become my shop.

YOU are a gentleman and a scholar and a pretty nice guy too! THANK YOU!

I got both front brake handle and clutch master and slave cylinders rebuilt, the rear master cylinder and rear caliper rebuilt. I have one front brake caliper rebuilt and will have (hopefully) the other (back from Brake Crafters) done this week. I bought a brake bleeder, it's really cool! I can't wait to try it out on the calipers! I got My 83.5 off the HF M/C lift and my 88 up on the HF lift. I'll be removing the rear wheel for servicing the drive gears and checking the wheel bearings out, Also I will be looking at the front wheel bearings while i over haul the forks, I got the hard ware for that job yesterday in the mail. If the tires are young enough(the tread and side walls look good on both) I'll be riding within the month!

OK, I wrote down the pertinent numbers I think, however they make no sense. I got a pair of Dunlops, "7TVO" & "7TNM" the S/N are F: NA7M5110 and the rear is NA7ZM1912. Can some one decipher please?

No, none of that is on the bike, the only adjustment capability is in the shock.... I have AT LEAST 2 bikes with the air system on it but no controller boxes that work. The air lines look pretty tired, I would guess air shock tubing could be used but what about the fittings? The only OEM parts available are O rings, a washer here and there, nothing that's going to be of any real help restoring a "leveling system"as Yamaha calls it.

No one knows this buy I don't have a Royale, I have a Standard and they don't have the air ride suspension. I have pre 86s that have the air ride, can that be moved over to the 88s?

So if you ran a little PSI you'd have (in effect) a gas filled shock like cars and trucks use to stop that foaming....

Well not that I didn't guess before but now I know why the clutch didn't work, the slave cylinder was AFU. I ordered a seal kit and installed it tonight, I will re-install it tomorrow night.... I've all ready overhauled the clutch master cylinder.... BTW does anyone have a picture of how the seal inside the clutch slave cylinder is installed? I counted on the pics int he book to be more clear and they aren't!

Rick, I would be interested knowing your results...Thanks!

I just ordered the 11-1112 Progressive Suspension Spring Kit, We'll see how it goes with the anti dives.... I have never braked that hard to need them so far as I know.....maybe I'm just an old man.....

Agreed!

I'm gonna by the Lucas Synthetic fork oil locally, unless you all know of a problem using synthetic or Lucas oils....it works out about the same money as on line oils.

Talked to the Brake Crafters man, Mark on the phone and he walked me though getting the right side caliper done but try as we might we couldn't get the left caliper cups in. Mark graciously offered to install them for me for no charge so in order to be as first class as he is I will be sending postage both ways. THANK YOU MARK!

See my update!

I don't think a gauge is gonna slip down in there. You're a brave man!

thanks jeff!!!

thanks jeff!!!

Try as I might I can't get the cups by the seal. Yes I have RRG on the seals and cups. I have rebuilt the brakes in the 83s, 84s, and 85s and never had this problem.

So what should the load range be? I'd like stronger tires than stock, I ride 2 up from time to time and MAY carry a trailer but more likely would fill the saddle bags and carry back packs.