BratmanXj

Former '97 C10 owner.... Not just a section, you were given a COD Number (concours owner dropper) to post in your signature!

Installed new EBC HH pads last week. 1st ride to bed them in and I pulled out of the garage onto the uneven and rutted alley, looked wrong at the front brake lever and slowly went over....

Reading the title I thought you were looking for a helmet headset.... As for the bearings. I've had decent luck with the All-Balls kits for steering heads, wheel bearings, etc. https://www.allballsracing.com/22-1004.html When I did my '99 I scored the old races with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel till I could smack them with a cold chisel and crack them off. I barely nicked the machining in the frame neck.

And check the insurance as well. Had that come up when I bought a salvaged Kawasaki C10 Concours and could only get liability, but I bought the bike for $1,200 and it was a non issue "beater" bike.

I was caring a M&P .40 for a while. Came across a young guy at work unloading a LC9s that's only a 6+1 9mm. For the price, I couldn't pass it up and it slowly has become my EDC because it is so tuck-able under a t-shirt and short. Just before this purchase I was at the range playing with the LCP II .380 and the Bodyguard .380 looking for a small glove-box pistol. Both shot very nice but obviously the Bodyguard felt more familiar like my M&P. After the LC9s purchase I'm glad I made the switch to the Ruger.

Mine's a Wolo Bad Boy but it appears to be the same style horn. Simple metal angle bracket on the right side back of the motor, hands right between the two exhaust pipes.

I've ran the standard Shinko 777 and the Tourmaster 230 with good results, just shy of 10k miles on each and the both stuck like glue till the end. To me the 230s felt a little smoother-plusher in the ride but got around 1k miles less. Both tires could be had for $100 or less and I install myself so I could justify the short mileage. This go round I'm on an E4 that rang up a bit over $200. Its a stiff sidewalk and I ended up taking it to a shop to install so add another $40. I have probably 3-4k miles on it with no major wear showing. Its not a bad tire and has been fine rain or shine, but as Saddlebum listed above the higher mileage tires tend to compromise other things. To me the Shinko's felt more "planted" around fast sweepers, but people always tell me I throw this big ol' bike around more than they do with a bike 1/2 the size.

In stock configuration: My Speedo shows 80mph vs 72mph on the gps. The Odometer is pretty close on the 90 miles from my home to cottage between the bike and the gps, under 1 mile difference in travel. I have not checked it on longer rides. So in modified configuration: The speedo vs gps would be equal at 80mph because of the Spedo DRD adjusting the signal. So now the Odometer is running "fast" and would show 98 miles on the bike vs 90 miles on the GPS. I hope this makes sense....

I've had a Spedo DRD sitting in the drawer for 2 years and never installed it. When I purchased and researched on here about the installation I was told that the Odo/Speedo were directly related in the computer system so adjusting the Speedo resulted in a corresponding error in the Odo. Someone who has installed the corrector may have better information.

From what I've seen the stock Odometer is pretty spot-on even with the speed being off by 10%. Since it is only the speed that is off, when you do run one of the adjusters the Odometer then comes up short on mileage.

If that's not it, my '99 would randomly loose memory when the battery was starting to die. New battery and it's been fine since.

While you're in there 90% of the way to get to the spark plugs you might as well do a valve check. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?38340-2nd-Gen-Valve-Adjustment

I reached out to EdSets with an e-mail asking if there were any installation instructions or troubleshooting guide, without prompting they are sending out a replacement unit. We'll see where this goes. As for sound quality, I'm not expecting perfection. Just need to be able to answer a quick yes/no question on the phone now and again.

No mic mutes, bike's system is virtually stock.

BTW, it's helpful to get a lighted switch that shows if its on or off...how else do you tell if your spot lamps are on while your seated on the bike with no cars to check for your reflection

Do you have the EdSet or a BuddyRick cable? I tried to install the EdSet Mic Splitter cable last night to my Zumo 660 and the wife on the other end of the phone call only gets static. The EdSet website does not say that you need their headsets for the Mic Splitter cable to work properly, so I'm wondering if that's only for the BlueTooth. I did put in a troubleshooting e-mail to them this morning, but just checking other routes for ideas.

They appear to be a mom & pop dealer of out Pennsylvania and there's a phone number & e-mail address on the website. Reach out and see if you get a real person to talk to and place an order vs through the website.

Thank you very much, did not realize that Edsets made it and after a quick search I have one on order. The little guy has been riding with me back and forth to the family cottage and when the wife loses me she decides to call, then gets mad because I didn't answer?!?

From searching the forum it looks like he's no longer making the cables and isn't really active on the forum anymore. Does anyone have a viable alternative option, or possibly have a BuddyRich cable laying around that they might want to sell? I've got a Zumo 660 hardwired to the bike and from what I understand it should work...

My mother was born in the Netherlands and emigrated here in '53 with my grandparents and great aunt & uncle, most of my family is still over there. Some distant cousins still run the 1600's watermolen grain mill that is of similar all wooden construction. My father was a life-long carpenter and we got a full tour & instructions on how to run the mill while we were there.

One of the better flexible rubber glues I've found is GOOP. Its a thick rubber cement and you'll have to clamp the parts together for a few hours to let it set. I've used their various formulas for shoe soles, rubber chafe pads on canvas tarps, and high wear places in automotive interiors.

My rubber is worn only along the outside 1/4 of the pedal, too. I debated riveting a plate on the arm and finding a small automotive brake or clutch pad. In 7 years of ownership I've never had an issue HITTING the pedal when I wanted to and figured I'd leave myself the extra floor-board space.

Jumping in so I can come back to this later. My bike gave me no-start fits for a few days and I believe its in the right side kill switch. I was able to get some contact cleaner sprayed into the housing and work it loose so the bike starts but I'd really like to break it open and do a through cleaning.

I've been eyeing their version of the Browning Hi Power https://www.brownells.com/firearms/handguns/semi-auto/regent-br9-9mm-4-6-13-1-prod118691.aspx

That was a Typo.... I NOW have 12v. Those LED's just don't wanna work cleanly on this bike.