BratmanXj

Did you kink the brake line when reinstalling? Possibly rotating the caliper the wrong way to reinstall. Possibly jammed the brake pad that its handing up at an angle in the caliper?

Flyinfool, Can you do me a favor a double check my diagnostics of the flasher relay against your bike as I assume a 1st gen & 2nd gen should have the same input & output from the flasher circuit. Do you have 12v on the relay output WITHOUT the flashers on as written in the manual or do you need to have the flashers on to get 12v? Edit: Nevermind, I forgot you sold your bike. Anyone else able to put a meter to their flasher relay for me?

Happy Birthday!

Ok, cracked open the manual and followed the electrical / signal system diagnostics. I HOPE its really just this simple... 1. Check incoming voltage to Hazard relay - Brown/Red wire on the relay harness is showing 12-ish volts on my meter. 2. Check what I believe is the outgoing voltage from the Hazard relay, but the instruction manual isn't clear on this step. If you check this with only the ignition on there is NO voltage to the Brown/White wire, if you turn on the hazards I'm only getting 8v. So, either its bad NOT having any voltage or its bad not passing enough voltage. Again, electrical is my biggest week point when it comes to automotive repair. So, before I dump $50 on a new flasher relay one does this sound plausible?

No, its not your connector. I put the factory configuration back together and tested the turn sockets and getting a max "spike" on my DVOM of 8v at various locations around the bike. All of the BIKE'S systems work fine with or without the breakout. The LED control box isn't getting enough voltage on the turn signal wire to kick off the run/brake lights.

The front and rear turn sockets are hitting the same 8-ish volts, I pulled the fairing and even the connectors just past the flasher are 8 volts. On a whim I relayed the circuit straight to the battery and run/turn/brake all function correctly. So my "lack of 12v turn" does appear to be the culprit. So... 1. Do I forgo the LEDs? 2. Diagnose the hell out of the system? 3. Bypass with Relays and make it work?

I put a jumper wire directly to the battery ground and tied back to BOTH the factory breakout harness & the LEDs. I put on the right turn signal and get a faint yellow flash in time with the turn signal. If I connect the run light it goes to the red-off-yellow-off pattern again. If I run a jumper from the LED turn back to the battery hot I get a nice bright yellow. I have a decent DVOM and it only hits 7.5v on the breakout turn signal. I think that turn signal "low voltage" is whats causing my problems of the LED driver control not kicking off the run/brake light because it's not seeing enough voltage. The battery shows 12.4v and is only 2 years old and well maintained. Does this make sense? And what would cause this? A failing flasher unit?

I was wondering that, and was about to look into the pin config and swap the solid state flasher out of the other bike into the Venture, but then did the following test.... I hooked the LED ground directly to the battery negative terminal and kept the LED yellow leads connected to the breakout harness and I have decent yellow turn signals on the strips. As soon as I tie in the tail light function the LEDs go "off-pattern" and I get a Red flash-off-Yellow Flash-off pattern that it doesn't do in my buddies Nomad. I put a diode in-line with the tail light and that still didn't fix the odd pattern.

P.S. make sure you turn down the volume cause the kid is making noises in the background.... So I disconnected the Run-Brake wires for the LED strips and put on the Hazards and I barely get a yellow flash out of them. Almost like I'm not getting 12v or a very short dwell time that the LEDs can't respond quick enough.

1st thing I tried before I even came to the forum... With the LED strips installed, the OEM turn signals connected and the C.D. LED run/brake board disconnected - still had the whacky yellow turn signal flash on the LED strips as shown in the original video.

"Converter" box I was speaking of....it's the control box that runs the input to the LEDs. Its NOT a trailer plug converter! So I set the DVOM to 200k Ohms and tested the leads going TO the LEDs (or should I say going into the control box) and have resistance ranging from 7.5k to 178k. Do we need the whole breakdown of impedance? So, please teach me O' wise one. How do I fix this mess?

I was about to order a set of Custom Dynamics Plasma Rods for $180 and my Kawi riding buddies swear by these. I know of at least 2 guys who have wired them on Nomad or Vaquero with out much hassle. http://m-factorystore.com/for-vulcan-1700-vaquero-voyager-integrated-30cm-led-turn-signal-tail-brake-light/

Hold your horses there guy....The LEDs are 3 wire and there is a small box that came with them to make it a 4-wire system. I'll post more photos when I get home tonight, stupid forum not getting my point across!

I have not made it out for any of this forums meet-ups. I know we chatted about how far you are from the crazy pink house. I misinterpreted what you wanted tested! I'll poke around a bit on the bike tonight and get back on here to discuss. There is a "converter" box on the LEDs to go from 4 wire input (Run-Brake-Turn-Ground) to 3 wire on the strip.

To clarify... You want to check the continuity on the LED strips or on the BIKE OEM lights? The yellow turn indicators turn off the red lights on the LED strip. Closer... Heck I'm just over the IL/IN boarder and could be up to you in a few hours.

Ok, I THOUGHT I knew what I was doing....famous last words. When I disconnect the OEM tail/turn harness at the connector by the battery and check for continuity the factory green & brown turn signal wires have continuity along with the black ground wire. With the OEM tail/turn disconnected the new LED strips fully function with run/brake & turns. So where do I need to add the diodes? I thought I needed to add them to the breakout harness with the green & brown turn leads going to the LEDS but that didn't work.

The Left & Right turn signals have continuity between them as well as with the ground wire. And as soon as it sat down to check them it made sense to put a diode in-line with each LED to control back-feed.

The LED strip lights have 4 wires per side. Before I mounted them I did connect them directly to battery and check Run-Brake-Turn features and they were all functioning. Edit: I also ran a direct jumper from the harness ground to the battery for testing purposes with no change. The Yellow Wire from each respective LED strip is wired to the Brown or Green to activate the turn signals feature. Per your original post, I went out and disconnected the back end of the bike from the breakout harness and the LED strips functioned properly with Run, Brake, & Hazard working correctly, the turn signal would have a fast flash because the obvious load issue with the rear incandescent bulb no longer connected. The leads me to believe that FlyinFool's comment about the factory bulbs shorting might be true. I'm fine with basic electrical modifications, but without sitting down at the bike with jumpers I'm a little lost on how to remedy this one.

Videos should be fixed now... Yes, the factory tails are all hooked up, I'll try tonight with them unplugged. I'll also jumper the ground lead directly to the battery. Thanks for the tips.

Here's a video of my ridding buddies Kawi Nomad with the exact same lights....

This is going to be a long post with lots of photos & videos.... Long story short, I'm trying to add Run-Brake-Turn LED strips like my buddy's bike and they aren't working as expected. Hoping someone here can help me out. I purchased an Aux Light Harness from Steve (aka M61A1MECH) and some 12" 3-way LED light bars from M-FactoryStore on good reviews from my Kawi riding buddies. I try to wire the lights up by the directions & wiring diagrams: The instructions from the lights The instructions on the jumper harness from Steve My actual wiring the with: Black - Black for Ground Blue - Red for Running lights Yellow - White for Brake Lights I didn't show the Brown/Green turns in this photo.... The Run/Brake lights work as expected, but my turn signals are completely out of whack almost like the LED's are not getting enough voltage for the yellow turn to over-ride the red brake lights. I have a custom dynamics brake light board in the factory lens, but the turn signals are all incandescent bulbs. Anyone else ever experience this?

I purchased it off eBay stating it was from a Stratoliner S and the wheel is a high polished cast aluminum with chrome rotors. It has been years since I've seen a Stratoliner / Roadliner in person & up close. I'm not sure if it was only a polished option vs rough cast or if there truly was a chromed wheel.

Are you fitting the stock Royal Star rotors to the Stratoliner wheel or did you get Stratoliner rotors?

I'm not aware of any cost effective rear wheel replacements that are compatable with the shaft drive. As mentioned, the Stratoliner / Roadliner 18" wheel is a direct swap, look for an S model that's chrome for a little more bling but the standard cast polishes up nicely. I got lucky and found one WITH the factory polished full floating rotors.

I've had good luck with both Shinkos that fit our bikes, the 777 & 230. I was getting 8-10k miles on a rear. Softer rubber so they gripped like hell wet or dry. I switched to the Dunlap E4 when they came out since they increased the load rating over the E3. I picked up a 2nd bike last year and only have 4k miles since installing it. So far it's been a very good tire both wet and dry but I haven't pushed it much.