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My MPG Nightmare...


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So some might remember I've talked about MPG on my bike.

 

When it was originally fixed, my mechanic told me that it was running on all four as i asked. He has vmax experience so I trusted him. The other day I had stopped at a local flea market and a man walked up. We talked and he's retired motorcycle mechanic and is familiar with the bike. I discussed the issue and told him I was getting about 30. He said that's right for the bike and mentioned about the bike weight at 900 and I'm 351lbs (nearly 1,300 lbs of bike and buns being hauled).

 

I just refilled running 75-80 MPH. Speedometer is 5mph off. 100 miles on 3.2 gallons=31.25

 

I have no noticeable issues in performance. Fuel gets treated with Lucas at every tank. Plugs and filter replaced over a year ago so they're ok. Battery is fine along with the charging system.

 

I take it easy to spare the clutches but she'll GO if you screw with her.

 

To me, this bike is a nightmare when it comes to repairs. That's the only issue that I ever had with this bike.

 

I've had two opinions that she's just fine. Doesn't smell rich, cranks good.

 

Opinions may now begin...

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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cptriker1,

 

Limited experience as I have had my 86 only a little over a year, so take it for what it is worth.

Bike has been gone over completely by a very knowledgeable mechanic who is familiar with the bike and systems.

Carbs were completely torn down, cleaned and rebuilt with quality parts.

 

Haven't made any long hauls, mostly 1-3 hour rides, some by myself and some two up.

Mostly on back roads just enjoying the ride.

Just carrying usual items such as tools, spare items etc.

 

Most of the time we never get out of third gear, and that is definitely something that I had to learn.

Lugging the V-4 isn't the thing to do. Not that it can't to a certain degree, just not the thing to do on this bike.

 

I have found that short runs with a good amount of stop and go, the mileage can be down into the high 20's.

Trips that I have made by myself with more highway miles at 60+ mph and the mileage definitely goes up around 40 mpg.

Even at 70+ mph, run into much of a headwind and/or a grade and you will be down shifting to keep the rpms up.

 

Argo

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Check air filter(s) and make sure they are clean (check air box yearly for mice nesting), use paper OEM not oil dampened like KnN. Check plug gaps = 32 thou. Check plug color = should be tan = dont over choke on start ups. If plugs are blackened and you dont over choke, you may have oblonged emusion tubes and/or need to drop the slide needles - I dropped them 60 thou on Tweeks and went from 30ish to 42/45mpg = oblonged tubes allowing for mains to pass to much fuel past the metering rods = running rich. Check pipes for signs of blockage. Color of muffler tips? Black? Does it smell like heavy exhaust? Check each carb overflow tube for dampness,, floats set high and its dripping out of overflow tubes? Check slide diaphrams for pin holes. Check sync. Put bike on center stand, smack brake calipers with rubber mallet and make sure they smack loose = do both sides on front = spin front wheel to make sure both calipers have released. Pull front brake lever hard, release lever, spin front wheel and make sure brake caliper is full release, if sticky at all clean pistons - dont forget to lube pivot on lever at perch. Press down on rear brake hard, release, spin front wheel to make sure left side linked brake caliper is fully releasing, lube pivot(s) on rear brake.

Do rear caliper = smack with rubber hammer = spin rear wheel for feel of how it spins with no brake drag, rehit rear brake hard, recheck caliper release.

Read Max PSI for MAX Load on tire carcass, run max psi per tire manufacturer rating as stated on tire - not owners manual. 45 rear is common , 50 front is not uncommon if your running Continenital Tour. Use max air specs.

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I get a steady 40/44 MPG running two lane roads and 60/65 MPH with my 89VR. When pulling my trailer (about 450 lbs. gross loaded weight) I get a steady 38 MPG @ 62/65 MPH. The only modification to the motor is backing off the needles .060, same as Puc did.

 

Jim

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at 75-80 with a load, 30ish is about right. This engine likes to be around 4,000 rpm or more, much under that eats more gas. sustained over 70 eats more gas. It is hard to tell without seeing it if all is normal.

 

To check for a weak cylinder when starting it cold see if all 4 pipes warm up at the same rate.

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So some might remember I've talked about MPG on my bike.

 

When it was originally fixed, my mechanic told me that it was running on all four as i asked. He has vmax experience so I trusted him. The other day I had stopped at a local flea market and a man walked up. We talked and he's retired motorcycle mechanic and is familiar with the bike. I discussed the issue and told him I was getting about 30. He said that's right for the bike and mentioned about the bike weight at 900 and I'm 351lbs (nearly 1,300 lbs of bike and buns being hauled).

 

I just refilled running 75-80 MPH. Speedometer is 5mph off. 100 miles on 3.2 gallons=31.25

 

I have no noticeable issues in performance. Fuel gets treated with Lucas at every tank. Plugs and filter replaced over a year ago so they're ok. Battery is fine along with the charging system.

 

I take it easy to spare the clutches but she'll GO if you screw with her.

 

To me, this bike is a nightmare when it comes to repairs. That's the only issue that I ever had with this bike.

 

I've had two opinions that she's just fine. Doesn't smell rich, cranks good.

 

Opinions may now begin...

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

I got about 30, tried everything to get it up to the 40-ish reported by others, the thing that got me there was the needle drop kit that Skydoc sells. Thats what worked, never did the performance wane much regardless of MPG. I think my emulsion tubes are worn and thats why dropping the needles further in helped. Of course I'm not going to replace them, it's working and the MPG is about right, done!

 

I see another response here about dropping the needles, you can try the kit out, I think it's only a couple bucks and takes only a few minutes to install.

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Sounds like the needles more than anything else. Anyone got a link to them so I can at least see them and get at a later date?

 

IMHO Cp, it's hard to say that without checking it out. It could be as simple as brake drag, a dirty air filter, a plugged air box nozzle as mentioned earlier.

In response to your ?; here is the scoop on what I found on Tweeks back in 14. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86325-Carb-metering-rod-question&highlight=tweeks+metering

 

In the end I did find resolve, got her MPG back up to par and got er back to her responsive self by using stacks of Nylon washers from Ace Hardware @.03 cents each for washers of 10 thou each (.010) - I just took my digital verniers down to Ace and started diggin. I just measured the metering rod O.D. for I.D. of the washers and went with the O.D. of the plastic metering rod factory stacker as showing in the first post in the above thread as a guideline for the O.D. of the washers. I think I bought 2 dollars for worth of "shims" and had enough left over to do another members bike (a friend by the name of FlyDay) which the last I heard = down the metering rods help him too. I think it was Skydoc who mentioned in the thread I posted above to stay away from using anything but nylon for shimming due to adding weight to the slide = that is exactly what I found too, best to stay with plastic to replace the factory plastic tune stack with. Adding weight on the slide will have an effect on slide action.

I have done a fair amount of tuning by metering rod going all the way back to the 60's. At one time I was working for a local Honda shop prepping Mini Trails and part of the prep was setting the metering rod for throttle response. Even those little Honda's had the industry standard that we back yard mechanics have used for many years or a "E" clip in a notch on the metering rod and several notches to adjust with (move the clip from one notch to the other = up or down). Many years ago, MX bikes were carbed and it was common place for track riders to "tune" out flat spots of their bikes tune using this industry standard. I was SHOCKED to discover Yamaha veared away from this long time tuning tool on the Venture.

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Probably running a bit rich I would guess. My '83 gets in the low to mid 40mpg with pretty aggressive throttle. And Vmax boost valves on the carbs - usually just cracked open a bit. Somewhat better mileage than my 1100 vtwin Honda Sabre.

zag

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Hey Jack,

These are all excellent replies! There are quite a few factors that will effect gas mileage. At one time, I had my Needle Shim Mod Kit in the "Old" Classifieds, but when the forum switched to the new format, All of my kits were lost. I have placed a few of the more popular kits in the new "Member Vendor" Classifieds, but I have not had a chance to add the Needle Shim Mod. I do still make that kit though. If you do shim your Main jet Needles on your own, Stay away from stacking S.S. washers on the Main Jet Needles. The slider response is drastically reduced, and the crispness of the throttle completely disappears. I machine a single shim from Virgin Nylon, and supply complete written instructions as well as PM and phone support for the install. I do want to mention that the Needle Shim Mod is NOT a "Magic Bullet"! If your tires are under inflated, you have a dirty air filter, your Idle mixture Screws are mis-adjusted, and Your Carb. Sync.... Isn't, then 4 little Nylon Washers are not going to save the day MPG wise, no matter where you get them from. If you would like some real help working thru the issues related to the Needle Shim Mod and the adjustments that would go with it for the best performance then please feel free to PM me.

Earl

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All the above need to be checked and of course the carbs need to be synced as that does make a difference also. This can let you know if you have a clogged vacuum ports in the carbs or maybe another issue. One of the things to check out is shotgunning the carbs. This amounts to spraying carb cleaner in different vacuum ports on the carbs to help clean them out. Look it up on a search engine as there are numerous articles on how to do it. The Vmax guys do this a lot on their bikes it seems.

I am in the 40mph range with lowered needles and sync done a couple times a year and I tend to ride in the 60 to 75 MPH range a lot when I am out riding.

 

Rick F.

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Talking gas mileage is one of the ways to start a fight in church. I've had 3 different V-4 yama's 86 venture 96 TD and 07 RSV all got consistently between 30-34 MPG. Now having said that, I do most of my riding to and from work (less than 10 miles each way) with some stop and go and a portion of limited access roads (4 miles) Also i do a lot of running around on the bike to and from Home Depot running out for mile ect.

 

I do notice that on the are long distance trip the mileage goes way up i got 40MPG on a speed run(75MPH the entire trip) to daytona with my brother last year.

 

I've also done everything mentioned here. Tires have changed sizes and pressures ( i installed TPS in order to monitor) I upgraded to washable KN filters. Sync the carbs once a year, new plugs, added FLH mufflers. I've even adjusted my riding style by shifting later and keeping the rev's higher ( never go into 5th unless i'm over 55 MPH for more than a few second) While all of this does help throttle response and the engine seems smoother, i've gotten maybe another 1 1/2 MPG average (now getting around 33 MPG)

 

While many people tell you of amazing mileage on other bikes 40 50 60 MPG its not on a carburated 4 cylinder of 1200 or 1300 cc. Something in the 250-600 cc range will get that easily.

 

The only real way to get high MPG on these bikes is long distances at higher revel in higher gears!

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I've thought about lowering the needles, but for today I'm going to hop on the bike and drive on I-10 and I'll be running 75-80 the entire way. So it is what it is. I do need to check the tires as I've been running 41 in them to make sure they are ok.

 

Having the bike is better than nothing... And its still a $500 bike... so i can live with a lot... Hehehe!

 

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Hope ya know Duey,, there have been several lop eared varmints in the club who have found themselves locked in the CPB (Club Penalty Box) for far less than the result of that little sales pitch :big-grin-emoticon:!!!

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This is probably gonna turn into another wayyy out there mindless Puc idea but,,, back years ago, when gas was 17 cents a gallon and I didnt have 2 nickles to rub together so MPG was a bid deal (0 dollars for fuel x .17 a gallon = 0 gallons of fuel until math laws became irrelevant a few years ago) I actually toyed with using Vacuum Gauges for fuel economy. I had a great big whoopin Vac gauge mounted on the steering colum of my 65 Barrcuda (rear window in that sweetheart was to DIE FOR = GORGEOUS!! It also had the coolest little "vent box" on the passenger side with a little flip handle to open it that was the absolute perfect size for a box of Genuine M-80's!! I digress) with a Hose Clamp that actually added many miles for each gallon of fuel to my lofty youthful adventures. Thru a little experimentation I learned from watching that Vacuum Gauge that I could increase my MPG's significantly by staying in the low vac section on the gauge.. Fast forward to present day and age and our new car = his name is Trooper. Troops a Hybrid Ionic Blue and we have seen into the 60 mpg range with him on many occasions. One of the HUGE things that promotes this is by paying attention to a little gauge on his dash that, though electronic (no vacuum lines running up to steer coloum on Trooper), still reads like that old vacuum gauge of yesteryear. Matter of fact,, I actually have a sneaking hunch Troops Econ Gauge is actually somehow reading vacuum.

IMHO, this all is applicable to our bikes in that, if a rider can learn to be mindful of throttle positioning and to "feel" when he is hitting high vacuum - which is pulling the diaphram slides open - which is pulling the metering rods fully out of the emulsion tube - which is opening the main jets to full open - which is allowing max fuel flow - which uses x2 the fuel of a main jet that is only half open,, he could fairly easily increase the MPG's his bike is capable of significantly..

By the way,, I REALLY love Trooper,, he is an amazing car and a good friend:big-grin-emoticon:!!

The end

 

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Hope ya know Duey,, there have been several lop eared varmints in the club who have found themselves locked in the CPB (Club Penalty Box) for far less than the result of that little sales pitch :big-grin-emoticon:!!!

 

Hope you remember my "mileage post" @cowpuc the picture referenced enclosed in that post, is of YOU filing your bike up by the side of the road.

:big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

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Hope you remember my "mileage post" cowpuc the picture referenced enclosed in that post, is of YOU filing your bike up by the side of the road.

:big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

 

Ohhhh I did Duey,,, I TOTALLY did!! :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

 

Speaking of mpg's Duey,,, I wonder if these lop eared varmints knew that besides being downright fun, ridin nekid also has a mpg increase = less drag ya know.. :missingtooth:

 

Edited by cowpuc
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Ohhhh I did Duey,,, I TOTALLY did!! :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

 

Speaking of mpg's Duey,,, I wonder if these lop eared varmints knew that besides being downright fun, ridin nekid also has a mpg increase = less drag ya know.. :missingtooth:

 

 

That is the same story I am offering and I am sticking to it. YOU GO PUC!!!!!:You_Rock_Emoticon::You_Rock_Emoticon::You_Rock_Emoticon:

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