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please help, what would you do?


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I know I am a lop eared junk yardin hack of a varmint but if it was mine and knowing that I had to completely dismantle and start from scratch anyway, I would probably just support the under carriage of the motor so there was no way it could tip over as I was doing what I am about to explain,,, then I would get out my Saws All make the cuts in the destroyed frame so could just lift it off the motor.. Do it right, cut the neck and roll the front end over in the corner, pull the subframe and tank, cut the frame in front of the rear end and pull the drive shaft out of the middle gear and roll it to another corner, lift the back bone up and toss it in the scrap bin and have a gorgeous V-4 sitting on frame rails staring me the face just waiting to be remounted in its new home.. :missingtooth:

 

Sounds like a plan !

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If the frame is toast I'd block up the engine and cut the frame away from it.

 

I thought about that !!

 

:scared:MAKE THAT THREE LOP EARED JUNK YARDIN VARMINTS IN THE SAME PLACE AT THE SAME TIME!!! :scratchchin:,, I'm gonna jump in the car and run down a grab a Lottery Ticket!! Suggest you 2 do the same thing and if one of us wins, we split 3 ways :thumbsup::big-grin-emoticon:

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:scared:MAKE THAT THREE LOP EARED JUNK YARDIN VARMINTS IN THE SAME PLACE AT THE SAME TIME!!! :scratchchin:,, I'm gonna jump in the car and run down a grab a Lottery Ticket!! Suggest you 2 do the same thing and if one of us wins, we split 3 ways :thumbsup::big-grin-emoticon:

Fingers crossed!!

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:scared:,, two lop eared junk yardin varmints in the same location at the same time Corporal... Only one of them types faster than the other!! :big-grin-emoticon:

Gotta say though,,, if my left hand was still functional I think I coulda gave you a run for your money!! :missingtooth::stirthepot::witch_brew::hihi:

Nah it's not your typing I just said it with a lot fewer words. :happy65::happy65:

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Nah it's not your typing I just said it with a lot fewer words. :happy65::happy65:

 

:big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::thumbsup:

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:scared:MAKE THAT THREE LOP EARED JUNK YARDIN VARMINTS IN THE SAME PLACE AT THE SAME TIME!!! :scratchchin:,, I'm gonna jump in the car and run down a grab a Lottery Ticket!! Suggest you 2 do the same thing and if one of us wins, we split 3 ways :thumbsup::big-grin-emoticon:

 

Fingers crossed!!

 

Nah it's not your typing I just said it with a lot fewer words. :happy65::happy65:

 

Ok you two lop eared junk yardin on your way to massive :mo money:varmints! I JUST ran down to the Shell Station and grabbed my 550 MILLION dollar Power Ball winner!! Keep in mind here,, in order for the 3 way split to work you varmints gotta do the same:thumbsup2:!! Better hurry,, drawings only 1 1/2 hours away!! 11:30 pm and we are rollin in :mo money:!!! Split two ways if only 1 of join,, alllllll mine if I win it alone and I am KNOWN for my sheer greed :hurts: = Poe ahead gunk,, make my day!!

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Ok you two lop eared junk yardin on your way to massive :mo money:varmints! I JUST ran down to the Shell Station and grabbed my 550 MILLION dollar Power Ball winner!! Keep in mind here,, in order for the 3 way split to work you varmints gotta do the same:thumbsup2:!! Better hurry,, drawings only 1 1/2 hours away!! 11:30 pm and we are rollin in :mo money:!!! Split two ways if only 1 of join,, alllllll mine if I win it alone and I am KNOWN for my sheer greed :hurts: = Poe ahead gunk,, make my day!!

Waiting to cash in and retire. :mo money::mo money::mo money:

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Per the above, my take would be learn how to get it out without hacking things up, that way you will be more prepared to install it which will be the exact opposite or removing it...[/quote

 

Makes a lot of sense but not near as much fun as power tools and flying sparks. 🛠🔨🔩💣

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Yes, I will definitely reinforce the frame being mindful of muffler clearance and such. As far as titling the bike, no problem in this state. Thanks for all the concern too. This forum is for sure a second family and I've only just begun !

 

This State is retarded, kinda why i was happy to get the bike running. I could just drive it to the inspection station to get the ID/OD. Just a way for the state to make more money and make **** a pain in the rear. I sent off for my title today but first had to get the ID/OD. Can't simply just transfer a title here.

 

Made2care,

 

This may have been said already.

 

Keep in mind the issue with the '83 frames is internal and will not be visible until it's too late. I'd weld the reinforcements on the "new" frame before putting her back together.

 

I'm waiting with trepidation for the day my frame breaks. I ride in inclement weather so it is only a matter of time from what I've been told.

 

And again, I hope you don't run into any issues transferring an out of state title with a non matching numbered engine.

 

I have never heard of something so crazy, what does the motor have to do with a Vin on the bike? People switch and swap motors and such all the time.. But then again refer to previous statement for Missouri!!!

 

I just moved into a new house and had to install lights in my garage / shop. I picked up a set of 6 T5 Led lights off of Amazon for less than $50 and OMG they are bright!!! They are made by a company called Barrina. I would leave a link below, but I am too new to the group. Go on Amazon, and run a search on Barrina T5 LED and they will come up. I got the one at the top of the list, the 6500K ones for $48.99. If you need lights, these are the ones to get. And they are easy to setup. I had mine installed in about an hour.

 

Sorry I didn't mean to jack your thread, I just had to comment since someone was talking about garage lights. Cheers

 

Mike

 

Wal-Mart Has the 4 foot led lights, i got the 4200 lumens and there pretty bright or $17 and there called hyper toughs. They sell like Hot Cakes they also have a brighter version at 5000 lumens that has pull chain for $22 I got that one for my youngest room.

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Hey, made2care, I am going to throw you one more BIG curve to think about. With the engine out of the bike, it would be the perfect time to permanently fix all your transmission problems. There are actually two problems with these transmissions, one being a soft thrust washer causing the 2nd gear problem and pins that come loose on the shifting tumbler that will only allow the gears to be shifted so far until you can get them replaced. What Yamaha did to fix the pin/tumbler problem was to make a solid unit that replaced the pin setup.

This was part of the change when Yamaha went to the 2nd gen transmission and it works great in a 1st gen engine, especially if you add a V-Max final drive that is about 10% lower geared. Comparing this setup to the stock 1st gen, you will have about a 10% lower 1st gear, a 5% lower 2nd, with 3rd and 4th being the same and 5th being about 5% higher geared. It is the ratios I feel Yamaha should have put into the bikes to start with.

If you are interested, I have a complete 2nd gen transmission with everything that you will need to do the changeover. This includes all gears and shafts, forks and upgraded shift tumbler. To make this work right, you will need a V-Max final drive and here is one on ebay right now for $83 and it includes the driveshaft, which is also a problem on early 1st gens if it was not lubricated routinely and most were not and the splines get stripped. Been there done that.

The reason I am suggesting all this to you is not only to fix your problems, but when you get this thing together and running right you will be addicted to the acceleration and you will be so mad at yourself for having to skip 2nd gear when you could be lifting the front wheel off the ground instead.

I have been thru these transmissions from one end to the other and I can absolutely assure you that you will love this setup. Let me know if you are interested. One more thing I may be able to help you with is some solid motor mounts that will help stiffen up the bike and make it handle better.

Link to V-Max final drive;

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/91-YAMAHA-VMAX-V-MAX-VMX-1200-Final-Drive-Differential-1FK-46101-01-00/202487048050?hash=item2f252b2772:g:XKAAAOSwIUVb2OEQ:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!37604!US!-1

 

Randy

Edited by Venturous Randy
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Hey, made2care, I am going to throw you one more BIG curve to think about. With the engine out of the bike, it would be the perfect time to permanently fix all your transmission problems. There are actually two problems with these transmissions, one being a soft thrust washer causing the 2nd gear problem and pins that come loose on the shifting tumbler that will only allow the gears to be shifted so far until you can get them replaced. What Yamaha did to fix the pin/tumbler problem was to make a solid unit that replaced the pin setup.

This was part of the change when Yamaha went to the 2nd gen transmission and it works great in a 1st gen engine, especially if you add a V-Max final drive that is about 10% lower geared. Comparing this setup to the stock 1st gen, you will have about a 10% lower 1st gear, a 5% lower 2nd, with 3rd and 4th being the same and 5th being about 5% higher geared. It is the ratios I feel Yamaha should have put into the bikes to start with.

If you are interested, I have a complete 2nd gen transmission with everything that you will need to do the changeover. This includes all gears and shafts, forks and upgraded shift tumbler. To make this work right, you will need a V-Max final drive and here is on ebay right now for $83 and it includes the driveshaft, which is also a problem on early 1st gens if it was not lubricated routinely and most were not and the splines get stripped. Been there done that.

The reason I am suggesting all this to you is not only to fix your problems, but when you get this thing together and running right you will be addicted to the acceleration and you will be so mad at yourself for having to skip 2nd gear when you could be lifting the front wheel off the ground instead.

I have been thru these transmissions from one end to the other and I can absolutely assure you that you will love this setup. Let me know if you are interested.

Link to V-Max final drive;

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/91-YAMAHA-VMAX-V-MAX-VMX-1200-Final-Drive-Differential-1FK-46101-01-00/202487048050?hash=item2f252b2772:g:XKAAAOSwIUVb2OEQ:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!37604!US!-1

 

Randy

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::clap2::clap2::dancefool::dancefool::thumbsup2:!!!!!!

 

DO THIS MADDY!!!!!!!! DO EXACTLY WHAT MY FRIEND RANDY IS SAYING!! DO NOT GO TO ALLLL THE WORK OF TEARING IT DOWN WITHOUT DOING EXACTLY WHAT RANDY IS SAYING!! TAKE THE XTRA TIME AND MAKE MAGIC HAPPEN!! :dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool:

 

DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Randy,, whats your take on clutch advice for Maddy? Is there any chance that a MK2/V-Max diaphram clutch setup would work and if so, do you feel its worth the trouble? I have countless encounters with, from being ridden hard in the upper gears,, the OEM 83 clutch just not being up to the task = like they shoulda had another inch or so on the plate diametger and dropped that goofy 1/2 plate buffer idea BUT,, I am sure taking some pressure off the clutch by dropping the gearing some like your idea is all about would help there too = thoughts? EXCELLENT POINT BROTHER ON DOING THE TRANNY SWAP!! :thumbsup2:

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Hey, made2care, I am going to throw you one more BIG curve to think about. With the engine out of the bike, it would be the perfect time to permanently fix all your transmission problems. There are actually two problems with these transmissions, one being a soft thrust washer causing the 2nd gear problem and pins that come loose on the shifting tumbler that will only allow the gears to be shifted so far until you can get them replaced. What Yamaha did to fix the pin/tumbler problem was to make a solid unit that replaced the pin setup.

This was part of the change when Yamaha went to the 2nd gen transmission and it works great in a 1st gen engine, especially if you add a V-Max final drive that is about 10% lower geared. Comparing this setup to the stock 1st gen, you will have about a 10% lower 1st gear, a 5% lower 2nd, with 3rd and 4th being the same and 5th being about 5% higher geared. It is the ratios I feel Yamaha should have put into the bikes to start with.

If you are interested, I have a complete 2nd gen transmission with everything that you will need to do the changeover. This includes all gears and shafts, forks and upgraded shift tumbler. To make this work right, you will need a V-Max final drive and here is one on ebay right now for $83 and it includes the driveshaft, which is also a problem on early 1st gens if it was not lubricated routinely and most were not and the splines get stripped. Been there done that.

The reason I am suggesting all this to you is not only to fix your problems, but when you get this thing together and running right you will be addicted to the acceleration and you will be so mad at yourself for having to skip 2nd gear when you could be lifting the front wheel off the ground instead.

I have been thru these transmissions from one end to the other and I can absolutely assure you that you will love this setup. Let me know if you are interested. One more thing I may be able to help you with is some solid motor mounts that will help stiffen up the bike and make it handle better.

Link to V-Max final drive;

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/91-YAMAHA-VMAX-V-MAX-VMX-1200-Final-Drive-Differential-1FK-46101-01-00/202487048050?hash=item2f252b2772:g:XKAAAOSwIUVb2OEQ:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!37604!US!-1

 

Randy

 

Thanks for all the advice and generous offers. I just want to say something t everyone so we are all on the same page. As most are aware I have restored some bikes but not as in depth as some are wanting me to do on this one. I am not familiar with this bike and all the vocab being mentioned is total "Greek" to me. Although stepping back it does make sense but I'm doing my best to take this all in and it is a little overwhelming. I'm definitely not downplaying these suggestions, I just want to take this a day ata time and assess every option. When I eventually get to these checkpoints I will be considering all these upgrades and changes, especially since I'm starting from scratch.

Thanx again to everyone for their help.

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Hey Maddy I'm cheap when doing stuff. I go to eBay every chance I get to find the better deal. But if you dont grab that final I might! Lol Not sure what it do to a plain Jane original Venture, but I like to see all the numbers right here. As far as tranis go and vmax rear. Pretty cool I tell ya. I don't know how far you are from Joplin, but got to say I'd be interested in watching the second gear be fixed permanently. I just recently wrecked my venture and went to Pittsburg KS and picked up Riva for $250.00! Guy just started working at his grandpa's company couple months ago and it was setting there along with an 83 gold wing. So now it gives me an opportunity to do something else I've seen done on here along with keeping the full tour pack to. If I am gonna pull a motor I personally would flip it upside down replace that issue and I will ad thus info to. I would replace both clutch rod and shift rod seals just cause! I bought tinker with a small oil leak. I finally got it fixed last year. It turned out it was the clutch rod seal leaking. But hey she has all new gaskets and seals now! I think it was @videoarizona who also has this pesky little leak. The biggest pain was getting it out from the tight spots there in. I would think if you have the ability to flip the motor over they would be a little easier to get too. I'm not 100% on this but I would definatly replace those seals.

 

Sent from my LG-M255 using Tapatalk

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I also bought it without knowing if it ran! I knew the motor turned is all. That's because I rolled it in gear and turned motor that way. 8 months of setting and once I got my key to turn the ignition I filled the bowls by rocking the toggle kill switch. Gave it some choke, hit the starter and she cranked over a few revolutions and roared to life. Only thing wrong it seems is the water pump elbow had a gash. I don't know if it's been mentioned or not but if you're has gash replace it. Also grind the ear down on the engine guard so if it falls it don't bust that elbow open again! That's all I'm gonna go Tinker with Tinker. Good luck!

 

Sent from my LG-M255 using Tapatalk

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Thanks for all the advice and generous offers. I just want to say something t everyone so we are all on the same page. As most are aware I have restored some bikes but not as in depth as some are wanting me to do on this one. I am not familiar with this bike and all the vocab being mentioned is total "Greek" to me. Although stepping back it does make sense but I'm doing my best to take this all in and it is a little overwhelming. I'm definitely not downplaying these suggestions, I just want to take this a day ata time and assess every option. When I eventually get to these checkpoints I will be considering all these upgrades and changes, especially since I'm starting from scratch.

Thanx again to everyone for their help.

You got it right, one step at a time. It's still winter for most of us and everybody is suffering from PMS and rider brain is in overdrive. Give it a month, bikes will be rolling and the suggestions will slow up a little. As far as the PMS we get to ride most of the winter here but I'm 2 weeks post-op and the bike won't get to move for at least another 6 weeks. I don't know how those snow bound Yankees park them half the year.

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You got it right, one step at a time. It's still winter for most of us and everybody is suffering from PMS and rider brain is in overdrive. Give it a month, bikes will be rolling and the suggestions will slow up a little. As far as the PMS we get to ride most of the winter here but I'm 2 weeks post-op and the bike won't get to move for at least another 6 weeks. I don't know how those snow bound Yankees park them half the year.

 

INDEED :sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

 

Even though my long distance CTFW days are over :cry: and Tip and I are stranded high and dry having to do our serious chasin/campin and frolickn in Trooper,, old habits do die hard = I can personally vouch for :sign67::sign67::sign67::sign67::sign67::sign67::sign67::sign67: =this cabin fever is TORTURE!!:fiddle::fiddle:

Come summer,, this club house will calm wayyyyy down,,,, maybe :innocent:

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I would replace both clutch rod and shift rod seals just cause! I bought tinker with a small oil leak. I finally got it fixed last year. It turned out it was the clutch rod seal leaking. But hey she has all new gaskets and seals now! I think it was videoarizona who also has this pesky little leak. The biggest pain was getting it out from the tight spots there in. I would think if you have the ability to flip the motor over they would be a little easier to get too. I'm not 100% on this but I would definatly replace those seals.

 

Sent from my LG-M255 using Tapatalk

 

Snyper, we need to talk. I never even thought about the clutch rod as the area looked fine with no residual oil under the slave.

Tell me more about how you replaced the seal? I think I saw a write up a long time ago...came in from the other side?

david

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Snyper, we need to talk. I never even thought about the clutch rod as the area looked fine with no residual oil under the slave.

Tell me more about how you replaced the seal? I think I saw a write up a long time ago...came in from the other side?

david

I wish it was that simple Video. Talk about tight spot. I did take the clutch cover off and I believe the rod went that way. I could be mistaken but getting the seal out was well a pain. The easiest part of the hole process was using the socket just as the right up says to insert new seal. My clutch seal reminded me of the leave a in the middle of the pile. Where there crunchy but also a little wet. The shift shaft one on my bike was in better shape. I still replaced it because I was getting tired of ppl running over to my bike thinking it was on fire! I also got tired of my yamaha being confused with a Harley when it marks what it thinks is its territory!

 

Sent from my LG-M255 using Tapatalk

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Don't go too far everyone. I will have a million questions , soon! With that being said, the next 2 months are very busy for me work wise. Then, I'm fortunate to have 3 months off during which time I hope to make major progress on this bike ! With your help of course.

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I am very late arriving at this party, so pardon me if I missed something in the five pages of this thread.

 

1. Check the engine number. Both the clutch cover and the stator cover indicate that this is a 1300. I can identify the year of the engine if you give me the engine number.

2. If it IS a 1300, the second gear "missing" may not be because of the transmission damaged. It may be because of the linkage train; either the shift drum or the shift linkage on the left side. (The foot pegs are not stock MKI pegs, nor are the peg mounts. The left peg mount looks like it may have been part of an aftermarket floorboard retrofit. The linkage may have been cobbled.

3. Final drive is not stock MKI. Either MKII or maybe V-Max. EDIT: Upon closer examination, the final drive appears to be from a Second Generation Venture. I can just see the speedometer pickup port.

4. Trailer hitch is not made for a MKI Venture. Either for a MKII or perhaps a GW.

5. (minor point): The mufflers are from a MKII. Muffler mount is not proper for a MKI and the turn downs are as for a MKII.

6. (another minor point): The fairing bags are added. The 1983 Royale did not come with fairing bags; the brackets that hold the bags are also not stock Venture.

Edited by Prairiehammer
Addendum to final drive comment
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