RandyR Posted June 22, 2011 Share #26 Posted June 22, 2011 Ugh, guess I need to plan to check mine just acquired an 02 RSV about a month ago with 28k on it. Up to 30k now and pretty sure its not been checked. What does everyone do for shims, sounds like it is a hassle to get down to it so would be nice to have aasortment of shims if needed and not have to let bike sit, or take everything off twice. Bob Marshall, il Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk Bob, I have a kit with shims and a tool that can be borrowed. I ask that any shims used be replaced and if you break the tool, replace it. MiCarl sells both. PM me. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scarylarry Posted June 22, 2011 Share #27 Posted June 22, 2011 $800 or $400, it don't matter...I can't afford it. Too bad we don't have enough 2nd Gen members close enough for us to have a valve adjust day. Randy if you want to get a one up for this I'm in, your place or mine don't matter. From what I know the motor has to be cold though, I could be wrong on this. I have never done it before so if someone that knows wants to show up that would be great... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfoster Posted June 22, 2011 Share #28 Posted June 22, 2011 Alleman cycleplex in Shreveport did mine this past February for $250. On the receipt they showed 3.85 hrs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted June 22, 2011 Share #29 Posted June 22, 2011 After reviewing the documentation I got from the previous owner, I can not find anywhere that a valve adjustment was ever done. I now have 42,000 on the bike so I need to do this. Anyone in the southeast Michigan area that wants to get together and tackle this job ? I have never done/seen a valve adjustment done, but I do have the service manual. How long should it take for a rookie to do this job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted June 22, 2011 Share #30 Posted June 22, 2011 Looks like I have someone coming over in early July to do valves - still working on setting the final date, but if anyone else in the North Texas area is interested in joining us, let me know. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galapagos Posted June 23, 2011 Share #31 Posted June 23, 2011 I have not purchased a manual yet for my 2006 RSTD. I have a fair amount of mechanical ability. Is it that tough to do? http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w109/chromeandleather/smwrench.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunboat Posted June 23, 2011 Share #32 Posted June 23, 2011 it is a big job alot of stuff has to come off the bike. but it is doable, a long one day. make sure you buy two valve cover gaskets ahead of time. it would help if there are 2 of ya, one on one side of the engine the other on the other side. there are a few who have done this & have shown others. v-goose is the best, ponch and buddy rich ( these guys are in texas ). there are others who have done this. but i'am not for sure in your area. reguards don c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pic Posted June 23, 2011 Share #33 Posted June 23, 2011 Looks like I have someone coming over in early July to do valves - still working on setting the final date, but if anyone else in the North Texas area is interested in joining us, let me know. Goose I need to get my 07 RSV done. I have 35K and past due. Let me know when, where and what I need to bring. Probably need Carb Tune done also while we are at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwx Posted June 23, 2011 Share #34 Posted June 23, 2011 In my case, I had other work done at the same time and possibly they cut me a break on the labor. Plus, the engine is now much quieter on startup than before...no more clicking sounds. And even though it may only be 'in my head'...it does seem to have a bit more pep now. Even if they did NOTHING....the receipt says they did...so if there should be a problem during the next year in that area, the bike's factory warranty would be in force, since I have the proof I had that service 'done'... Valves are a difficult subject. There is a myth that valves will get noisier as they near adjustment time. Valve clearances tend to tighten up over time, not get bigger, so I would expect a motor to be more likely to clatter a bit more AFTER a proper adjustment, rahther than just before. I have heard this myth so many times, that it must be nearly universal. It leads to another thing I've heard dozens of times, people saying that the mechanic listened to the motor and said the valves were OK. Nice and quiet. I'm a mechanic myself, and I know that most mechanics take great pride in their work. Unfortunately, though, the realities of working in the typical motorcycle dealer shop doesn't allow for the kind of precision work that we'd like to expect. The mechs have to keep moving to make any money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted June 23, 2011 Share #35 Posted June 23, 2011 Valves are a difficult subject. There is a myth that valves will get noisier as they near adjustment time. Valve clearances tend to tighten up over time, not get bigger, so I would expect a motor to be more likely to clatter a bit more AFTER a proper adjustment, rahther than just before. I have heard this myth so many times, that it must be nearly universal. It leads to another thing I've heard dozens of times, people saying that the mechanic listened to the motor and said the valves were OK. Nice and quiet. I'm a mechanic myself, and I know that most mechanics take great pride in their work. Unfortunately, though, the realities of working in the typical motorcycle dealer shop doesn't allow for the kind of precision work that we'd like to expect. The mechs have to keep moving to make any money. You are correct - properly adjusted valves make some ticking noise, and they get tighter as they wear in, not looser. Absence of valve noise is not an indication that they are in spec. On some bikes it's very hard to hear the valve noise. Just because you cannot hear it does not necessarily mean they are tight. On the other hand the Venture engine has 16 valves. Being able to hear valve noise does not mean that they are all ok either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted June 23, 2011 Share #36 Posted June 23, 2011 You are correct - properly adjusted valves make some ticking noise, and they get tighter as they wear in, not looser. Absence of valve noise is not an indication that they are in spec. On some bikes it's very hard to hear the valve noise. Just because you cannot hear it does not necessarily mean they are tight. On the other hand the Venture engine has 16 valves. Being able to hear valve noise does not mean that they are all ok either. On a few of the engines I have helped with, or gotten feedback on because my kit was used, some of the valves were on the loose side of the spec, even after 50,000 miles of no adjustment. That makes me wonder if the factory set them correctly in spec. On Sleeperhawk's bike this past weekend, some were out of spec tight, and some loose. Go figure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GG54172 Posted June 23, 2011 Share #37 Posted June 23, 2011 My bike is at 42k. I plan to do a valve inspection soon. What is it about the venture engine that causes the valves to tighten with wear? Seems bass ackwards to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted June 23, 2011 Share #38 Posted June 23, 2011 Most all conventional valves are like this. As the valve seats further into the head from normal wear, the valve stem moves closer to the cam, lifter, or whatever mechanism the particular engine configuration uses for intake and exhaust. Some oldtimers used to refer to the process as the stems getting longer. I think a lot of confusion comes from thinking that the valve stems, buckets and shims, or whatever that engine uses, wear away and the gap should be getting greater. Most of these parts are extremely hard and therefore very wear resistant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuthDaddy17 Posted June 24, 2011 Share #39 Posted June 24, 2011 Looks like I have someone coming over in early July to do valves - still working on setting the final date, but if anyone else in the North Texas area is interested in joining us, let me know. Goose Hey Goose. let me know when you get a firm date, I would love to make it up to check the valve clearance and enjoy great company! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted June 24, 2011 Share #40 Posted June 24, 2011 I just turned over 27,000 on mine and went straight to the shop with it. They gave me a price of $500 plus shims. If it weren't under warranty I would do it myself. As it is I fully expect to have to re-sync my carbs and adjust throttle play,... things like that, when I get her back. They have had her a month already but also doing clutch basket and rear shock warranty work. I do miss her sooo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22lyons Posted June 24, 2011 Share #41 Posted June 24, 2011 After reviewing the documentation I got from the previous owner, I can not find anywhere that a valve adjustment was ever done. I now have 42,000 on the bike so I need to do this. Anyone in the southeast Michigan area that wants to get together and tackle this job ? I have never done/seen a valve adjustment done, but I do have the service manual. How long should it take for a rookie to do this job? In the same place. I just bought mine last fall and just turned 31k. I have never done it and would not mind getting together to figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted June 24, 2011 Share #42 Posted June 24, 2011 (edited) I need to get my 07 RSV done. I have 35K and past due. Let me know when, where and what I need to bring. Probably need Carb Tune done also while we are at it. Hey Goose. let me know when you get a firm date, I would love to make it up to check the valve clearance and enjoy great company!Valve day at my place in Colleyville on July 6th. If you want your valves done on that day, you will have to do almost all the work on your own bike yourself with just directions and minor help. And you need to give me a call or PM soon (phone number is in my public profile); because, I want you to order 3 or 4 shims ahead of time for the kit to make sure we do not risk getting caught needing one in the common sizes. You can probably get by fine with your old gaskets, but you WON'T be happy if you end up with an oil leak! Considering how much work it is to get those covers off, I do suggest new gaskets. You should also have new plugs and a fuel filter (MicroGuard universal 33011 at O'Reilly Auto Parts is a good choice). Remember, this is a big job, and it does take most people pretty much the whole day! Anyone who just wants to observe is welcome. And if you want your valves done but think you need a lot of help or just want me to do the work, we'll need to schedule that for a different day just for you, and I charge $350 plus parts, which includes plugs, fuel filter, carb cleaning and mixture set along with the valves. Goose Edited June 25, 2011 by V7Goose correct dumb date mistake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwx Posted June 25, 2011 Share #43 Posted June 25, 2011 I'm frustrated by the difficulty of using the Yam shim tool. Mine may be worn, though. Not sure why, since I've only done three adjustment procedures with it. Before I started my latest check/adjustment last week, I seriously considered removing the cams so that I could have ultimate acces to all the shims at one time. I had a Honda CBR a few years ago that had 16 shim under bucket lifters. Adjustment required removing the cams. It was actually pretty easy. I don't see anything in the Venture cam removal procedure that would make this very hard to do, and it sure seems easier than the back-and-forth struggle of getting that Yam shim tool to work right. Maybe I will try this some day. About 30k miles down the road. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted June 28, 2011 Share #44 Posted June 28, 2011 In the same place. I just bought mine last fall and just turned 31k. I have never done it and would not mind getting together to figure it out. Let's make a plan and get it done. You can find my phone number in my profile. I'll see if I can track down the roaming shim kit and nail down an approximate date we can get ahold of it. I have tools a jack and air in my garage. Your place or mine it doesn't matter to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYred Posted July 14, 2011 Share #45 Posted July 14, 2011 Valve day at my place in Colleyville on July 6th. If you want your valves done on that day, you will have to do almost all the work on your own bike yourself with just directions and minor help. And you need to give me a call or PM soon (phone number is in my public profile); because, I want you to order 3 or 4 shims ahead of time for the kit to make sure we do not risk getting caught needing one in the common sizes. You can probably get by fine with your old gaskets, but you WON'T be happy if you end up with an oil leak! Considering how much work it is to get those covers off, I do suggest new gaskets. You should also have new plugs and a fuel filter (MicroGuard universal 33011 at O'Reilly Auto Parts is a good choice). Remember, this is a big job, and it does take most people pretty much the whole day! Anyone who just wants to observe is welcome. And if you want your valves done but think you need a lot of help or just want me to do the work, we'll need to schedule that for a different day just for you, and I charge $350 plus parts, which includes plugs, fuel filter, carb cleaning and mixture set along with the valves. Goose Sure as hell wish I lived in Texas about now...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phertwo Posted July 14, 2011 Share #46 Posted July 14, 2011 I just finished the valve shim adjustment a few days ago. The job took a while but it really wasn't difficult at all. I do have one thing to add that I don't think that I read in the wonderful instruction guide written up by V7Goose or anywhere else.. If you remove a shim, make sure you put it back in if you plan to rotate the cam at all. I was stupid enough to remove two shims, then rotate the cams without putting them back in . Well the cams will push the buckets down, but then become stuck. The lip that goes around the shim to hold it in place kind of locks the cams, the only way to get the cam back out is to push the buckets down somehow; I just wedged something between the cam and the lip of the bucket.. I definitely wouldn't want to do that again! I had the logic of wanting to remove all the shims that needed replacement, swap them at the dealer, then reinstall them. DO NOT DO THIS! Just figure out what shims you need, buy them, replace them one at a time, then take your old used shims to the dealer and they will give you a credit. I'm sure that most of you know this already, but for anyone who is tackling this for the first time like me, be forewarned! Other that that its a pretty simple but time consuming job.. To me anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted July 14, 2011 Share #47 Posted July 14, 2011 Just a few thoughts on valve shims: First off, it is not something to be ignored. If you are baulking at the $400 or so cost to have the job done for you, consider the cost if your engine burns an exhaust valve! My 1st Gen. came to me at 56k miles. It was pretty clear that the valves had never been touched. The clearances were all over the place with some still in spec, and some quite tight. Not enough to worry about, but they are all in spec now. I had never done that job before, but it was pretty straightforward. Yes it takes time, and you need to be logical about it, but the actual process is pretty easy. As for sourcing new shims .... Dealers quoted anything from $4 per shim (which they then couldn't find having said they were in stock) to about $15 per shim. In the end I swapped out a few from Skydocs kit and supplemented them with 4 I bought from the local motorcycle breaker .... 4 for $15, so Skydocs kit went back to him with four more shims than it had when it arrived here. It is likely that our engines .... all of them from '83 on, will go 50k miles before you really need to change much. But that's not an excuse for not checking them at the suggested intervals. That's too much like Russian Roulette, and you might lose! Yes, I agree, it seems "backwards" that they wear tighter. That's because most of us were brought up on tappets. They wear wider and you can hear them clatter when they need adjusting. With buckets and shims the wear is on the valve, and the valve seat. Effectively the valves wear their way into the head, that is why they wear tighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwx Posted July 14, 2011 Share #48 Posted July 14, 2011 I had the logic of wanting to remove all the shims that needed replacement, swap them at the dealer, then reinstall them. DO NOT DO THIS! Just figure out what shims you need, buy them, replace them one at a time, then take your old used shims to the dealer and they will give you a credit. I'm sure that most of you know this already, but for anyone who is tackling this for the first time like me, be forewarned! This is why I like the idea of removing the cams. A few years ago I had a Honda CBR with shim-under-bucket arrangement. You first made your measurements, then removed the cams, pulled the buckets out to see shat size shims were under there. Then order the shims. Put them in, reinstall the cams, check the measurements, and you're done. The single most aggravating thing for me on this Venture motor is dealing with the Yamaha shim tool. Most of the work is spent on getting the thing set properly. All of this work could be avoided by simply removing the cams. It doesn't appear to me from the cam removal procedure that removing the cams is all that hard. Certainly no harder than it was on the old CBR. The biggest risk would be dropping the chains down into the case. Next time I do my valves, I may try it thisaway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperhawk Posted July 14, 2011 Share #49 Posted July 14, 2011 This is why I like the idea of removing the cams. A few years ago I had a Honda CBR with shim-under-bucket arrangement. You first made your measurements, then removed the cams, pulled the buckets out to see shat size shims were under there. Then order the shims. Put them in, reinstall the cams, check the measurements, and you're done. The single most aggravating thing for me on this Venture motor is dealing with the Yamaha shim tool. Most of the work is spent on getting the thing set properly. All of this work could be avoided by simply removing the cams. It doesn't appear to me from the cam removal procedure that removing the cams is all that hard. Certainly no harder than it was on the old CBR. The biggest risk would be dropping the chains down into the case. Next time I do my valves, I may try it thisaway. The tool was the easy part, putting the gasket and valve cover back on was the pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted July 14, 2011 Share #50 Posted July 14, 2011 The tool was the easy part, putting the gasket and valve cover back on was the pain. Agreed. The improved gaskets that Skydoc sells were a real bonus here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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