Indian regulator/rectifier group buy

[EnJay]

Found mine in the mailbox yesterday after work.

 

Thanks Dano, excellent job.

[Iowa Guy]

If you look into the Spec Sheet in the prior Thread mentioned right above, you'll see the Specs say up to 50 Amps if the Mounting Area is in a cooled and vented Surrounding.

 

Buckeye's higher output stator says it increases by 25%. If the Original was rated at 30 amps, then that would increase it to maybe 40 and this regulator/rectifier would work for the higher output one of Buckeye's if I decided to make that switch or have I missed something?

 

Iowa Guy

[Squeeze]

Buckeye's higher output stator says it increases by 25%. If the Original was rated at 30 amps, then that would increase it to maybe 40 and this regulator/rectifier would work for the higher output one of Buckeye's if I decided to make that switch or have I missed something?

 

Iowa Guy

 

Yes, that's right. It sure would work with the Buckeye Stator too.

 

I don't think it's needed to work with the high Output Stator, but seen from Technology only, this R/R is superior to the Stock Unit at both, 1Gen and 2Gen.

[Dano]

Thanks for the compliments guys, the last of the units went out yesterday. It's been a LOT of work, making sure everything was correct. Dave at Indian ( ddudziak@indianmotorcycle.com ) went out of his way to make sure we had all brand new units, never installed and made sure we had the hook-up for the complete correct connectors. Please send him an email thanking him for this. Great guy to work with!

 

I really think these new units will help out with a lot of problems, especially having higher voltage available at idle. I plan on putting mine in sometime in the next month. Here's a write-up I did for Skydoc last night for the wiring install, you can pretty much mount it anywhere you want, but I like the location SaltyDog picked in the original thread (posted above) inside the fairing.

 

The gray one is your 3 wire stator feed into the regulator, the black one your output, inboard (left) pin is DC +, the outboard (right) pin is DC-. Extend your stator wires (solder & shrinkboot extensions, minimum wire size #12 stranded) to the regulator. Put a blue insulator boot over each wire, then install the terminal with a good crimp tool. You may solder if careful and don't use too much (just heat up and dab the solder onto the terminal, a pin torch is ideal for this). Install the terminals in the black connector (order does not matter, one wire per hole), then slide the blue insulators up into the connector body. this seals up the back side of the terminal.

 

On the black connector, take the yellow plug and install it in the center hole. This connection is not used. Run a #12 (or even #10) red from the + terminal to the battery+ and the same wire in black to the - terminal of the battery. Hook up the terminals the same as before.

Mount your unit where ever you want, I'm thinking about the left fairing under the radio pocket.

BTW, just capoff the brown wire in the harness connector tothe old unit, it was a voltage sensing circuit and is not used on the new regulator. Of course you won't be using the paired red and black wires in the harness at either end any more, too.

 

That should screw you up good enough to get the job done

 

 

Once again, thanks for your compliments

 

PS I want to thank Condor for all his help in this project also! Thanks Jack!

Edited September 9, 2009 by Dano
Had the connector colors wrong! And Snaggle was SaltyDog!

[Condor]

Thanks for the write up Dan. It cleared up a couple of questions, but I still have one. I think I read somewhere in all the posts that the 'Indian' didn't get hot.... or produce heat??..., but it has some very healthy heat sinc fins. Get's me to thinkin' it might be better to mount it somewhere that has cool air flow as it does get a little toasty. Any input??

[Dano]

I SCREWED UP! (I told you I would!)

It was Saltydog, not Snaggletooth in the post who put his in the fairing, he actually mounted it in the air flow coming down the inside of the fairing if you look at the pics. This should deal with the excess heat, rather than putting it in the engine bay.

I also screwed up on the connector colors, corrected that in the post above. But really if you pay attention, the gray has 3 wire leds and the black has two, therefore it should leave you to believe the gray is stator input and the black is the output. Please refer to SaltyDogs post referenced above for the install if you want it in the fairing.

 

Dan

[saddlebum]

Buckeye's higher output stator says it increases by 25%. If the Original was rated at 30 amps, then that would increase it to maybe 40 and this regulator/rectifier would work for the higher output one of Buckeye's if I decided to make that switch or have I missed something?

 

Iowa Guy

Just for those who may not totally understand amps . think of it as a 5 gal pail compared to a 4 gal pail if all you need to carry is 3 gallons due to low demad (eg Fewer lights) both pails will do the job but if you need to carry 4 and 1/2 gallons due to high demad (eg more lghts) at a time only the 5 gallon pail will do the job, because the smaller pail would overflow.

[barend]

Got mine Dano, Thanks for your (major) effort on this!!

[SaltyDog]

Just a suggestion to those installing the new regulator. The manufacturer recommends that a fuse be placed into the 12+ wire running to the battery. And the Ground wire should connect directly to the battery also, not on the frame. This regulator senses the battery voltage through it's output lines and needs a low resistance path to the battery.

 

The unit I installed last month has given me ZERO problems and doesn't get any hotter than the surrounding air. I only mounted mine in the right faring duct work because it was such a new item and I didn't have any history of it's performance. It also was easy to mount in that location since I use that wasted space for my auxilary relays, timers and security alarm. I like that it is somewhat isolated from the engine heat and is still accessible for service without totally taking the plastics off the bike.

 

If you look at my earlier post before the group buy, you will find the performance graphs. It is rated for 50 amps but only with some air cooling. The unit also has a startup delay when you start the motorcycle. The output voltage will slowly ramp up over ~10 seconds to the 14.2-14.5 VDC. I like this as it doesn't give the electrical system a jolt at startup.

 

The old regulator on my bike was left in place. Since I already upgraded the wire connectors previously to a higher quality/amperage type, all I had to do with the stator wires from the new regulator was to install a similar plug and leave the old one tucked away. That way I have a onboard spare regulator for road trips or fellow riders use. The old output connector was used as a source for power to the rear of the bike. I added another relay at the plug so I have ignition switched power to my trunk. It also feeds out to the trailer for "on the go" charging during trips (laptop, camera) or to run a trouble light at the campsite. All this new wiring can be easily disconnected and returned to original if I wanted.

[Dano]

Thanks for the update Salty, another SCREW UP I forgot to mention...... the fuse........

 

sounds like you have a few options for electrical on your bike. Good go, we appreciate the tips.

 

Dan

[barend]

Just a suggestion to those installing the new regulator. The manufacturer recommends that a fuse be placed into the 12+ wire running to the battery.

 

Since the unit will handle up to 50 Amps, may i assume that is the size fuse you would install??

[SaltyDog]

I would install the appropriate fuse for the size of wire you are running between the regulator and battery. If you have a short in the regulator, any fuse will open up, even a 100 amp fuse. The fuse is to protect the wiring. If you are using #12 wire then a 30 amp is good and if you use # 10 then I would go with a 40 amp. These sizes will keep you from melting your wiring and protect the bike from burning down due to melted wires. The stator is only rated for a maximum of 30 amps @ 5000 RPM in a perfect world. The claims of the aftermarket stators of increased output are just that - claims.

 

Bottom line is to protect the wiring with a fuse of the correct size for the type and size of conductor used. This is just from my experience of over 30 years of avoiding being electrocuted in the Navy and civilian sectors. It's your bike so you are the final authority.

[GigaWhiskey]

I just saw this, I miss out on all the fun, lol.

[rumn1]

Dano - Received mine, thanks for your work.

[Marcarl]

Just recieved the units shipped here, 7 all told, so that would be 5 for me and one for Wayne and one for Ben. Now let's see, if there was 2 broken ones, who would they belong to. No real fear though, I do have 2 extra to sell them if need be.

[Dano]

Now let's see, if there was 2 broken ones, who would they belong to.

 

Why, that would be Wayne and Bens of course!

[Marcarl]

Why, that would be Wayne and Bens of course!

That's kind of what I was thinking,,, I'm glad you feel the same way.

 

And thanks for doing this,,,,,, bet it kept you busy for a while.

[Squidley]

Just recieved the units shipped here, 7 all told, so that would be 5 for me and one for Wayne and one for Ben. Now let's see, if there was 2 broken ones, who would they belong to. No real fear though, I do have 2 extra to sell them if need be.

 

 

Carl,

Keep me in mind for one of those please

[Dano]

bet it kept you busy for a while.

 

Yeah, you could say that!

[Marcarl]

Carl,

 

 

 

Keep me in mind for one of those please

Shall do buddy.

[SmilingJack]

Dano - received mine earlier in the week - just wanted to say thanks for all your efforts and a job well done!

[saddlebum]

Why, that would be Wayne and Bens of course!

Hey Dano Wrong answer I am in Highland Illinois right now which means I have to go through Indianapolis on the way Home. Think about it.Oh and my wife is with me and she gets mean.

[jasonm.]

being in electronics for 30+ years. I don't understand why people are stating.we "should not connect to the original wires" using solder or connectors. I believe these go to the battery and appropriate circuits as OEM designed.Those paired black and reds equal a single 12awg wire. I do understand the brown wire not being needed. ALSO did anyone do a current draw check with the ignition off ? Reason I ask, the old R/R has the brown sense wire. IT was switched by your simple ignition switch at the handle bars. You ask why it was switched. REASON...the regulator would draw power even with the bike totally off. The sense wire ie. tells the R/R to work. My bike has always only had a 1 milliamp draw for the clock, etc. when off. I suggest someone do a test with a digi-amp meter and see if there is a draw of any more than a milliamp or 2 when off ?

[Dano]

Hey Dano Wrong answer I am in Highland Illinois right now which means I have to go through Indianapolis on the way Home. Think about it.Oh and my wife is with me and she gets mean.

 

Oh, go ahead now, you gonna pull the WIFE card on me now? Honestly Ben, I never thought you would stoop so low (LOL). I guess we'll just have to throw yours and mine in the cage out back and see who wins! In the meantime we'll have Charlie or Hal bring some "Apple Pie" down and have a few (might even throw Gayle in there for funsies!)!

 

 

 

Then, I ask, why do some models have the brown wire and others do not? I have 2 original r/r's here, one has the brown wire, the other does not. Where and how is the r/r drawing power? That would be the same as a battery charging transformer draining the battery if unplugged from the 110v source. Never seen that happen.

One reason for running new wires to the battery is this- no connectors to run through to add resistance, other than the connector on the new r/r. Also, relocating the new r/r may not allow you to use the harness wiring, depending on location.

 

JMHO

 

Dan

[jasonm.]

You have to understand all that I say....I have seen. We have people who have the brown wire connected to the battery at all times in regards to my other old Yamaha Vision. Doing this helps regulate the voltage slightly better. BUT They end up with a dead battery if it is already weak and not riddin much. I did the brown wire direct thing on my other Yamaha. And measured the current being sucked thru the brown wire alone was over .10A(100 milliamps)... which is not a lot. Which is a bit more than nothing and yet enough to kill your battery in 2 weeks. I use a relay for that brown wire to be a direct connect to the battery on my '83 Vision that only is active when the ignition is on. Also noticed a draw on the positive wire if the brown is connected direct. The exact amount I do not remember. MAybe it was the same 100 milliamps. Some memory details are fuzzy but there. Seriously disconnect the battery positive and put the ampmeter correctly connected(polarity) and see if there is a draw when off. You know how to do that...right? I would hope it will be as I stated in the previous post.