N3FOL Posted July 15, 2009 Share #51 Posted July 15, 2009 I think I have the 35-2629 in my tool box. So, I may have missed it...what exactly is the type of Shim Tool (part #) for the 2nd Gens? If it is the 35-2629 or the other part to the right of it, how in the world would you hold the tool and lift the cam lobe...is the stem long enough for leverage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponch Posted July 15, 2009 Share #52 Posted July 15, 2009 If it is the 35-2629 or the other part to the right of it, how in the world would you hold the tool and lift the cam lobe...is the stem long enough for leverage? On the proper tool (35-3462), there's a hex on the center of the cam that the tool fits on. When you rotate the crank/cam, the tool rotates with the cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted July 15, 2009 Share #53 Posted July 15, 2009 They say a picture is worth 1000 words.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 15, 2009 Share #54 Posted July 15, 2009 On the proper tool (35-3462), there's a hex on the center of the cam that the tool fits on. When you rotate the crank/cam, the tool rotates with the cam. Thanks Ponch for enlightening me. That now makes sense to me...so the crank is turned in order to lift the cam and remove the shim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponch Posted July 15, 2009 Share #55 Posted July 15, 2009 Randy Rick for the drawing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuthDaddy17 Posted July 15, 2009 Share #56 Posted July 15, 2009 I didn't realize thet the tool sat in a groove, I'm still learning!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddyRich Posted July 15, 2009 Share #57 Posted July 15, 2009 Thanks Ponch for enlightening me. That now makes sense to me...so the crank is turned in order to lift the cam and remove the shim. Doesn't lift the cam. Its got major bolts and bearings holding it down. What the tool does is push the shim bucket (and the valve) down giving you clearance to remove the shim. There really isn't any groove.What the drawing is showing isn't a groove but the space between the 2 shim buckets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 16, 2009 Share #58 Posted July 16, 2009 Got it BuddyRich. I now understand the concept. As we talk more about valve adjustment, someone may be able to put together an Excel file and list parts and part numbers and where to buy them for parts needed to be replaced ie: gasket, RTV, etc. Do you know if there is a pic of an opened 'valve cover' on the Venture floating around in this forum? I'm curious how it looks like in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share #59 Posted July 16, 2009 Got it BuddyRich. I now understand the concept. As we talk more about valve adjustment, someone may be able to put together an Excel file and list parts and part numbers and where to buy them for parts needed to be replaced ie: gasket, RTV, etc. Do you know if there is a pic of an opened 'valve cover' on the Venture floating around in this forum? I'm curious how it looks like in there. Look at the shop manual - that is why I included the exact page numbers in the original post. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 16, 2009 Share #60 Posted July 16, 2009 Sorry for being so picky. Perhaps a colored digital picture is nice. When I get a chance this afternoon, I will take pics of my shim collection that I use on my T-SHO. Not sure if they are the same as the Venture. Do you have a pic of a shim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted July 16, 2009 Share #61 Posted July 16, 2009 Sorry for being so picky. Perhaps a colored digital picture is nice. When I get a chance this afternoon, I will take pics of my shim collection that I use on my T-SHO. Not sure if they are the same as the Venture. Do you have a pic of a shim? Well, imagine a bigger Washer without a Hole in it ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 16, 2009 Share #62 Posted July 16, 2009 Hmmmm, that is not hard to imagine. Thanks anyway, I'll post the pic and find out what members think if I have the same shim or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share #63 Posted July 16, 2009 A picture of a shim will be of no value unless it is laying on a very accurate ruler. If it is a 25mm shim, it will fit. If it is not 25mm, it will not. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 17, 2009 Share #64 Posted July 17, 2009 FWIW, attached is a Shim pic next to a US Quarter with inscription of 2500 (not easily seen) and next to it is the special tool that I used to remove Shims on my Taurus SHO while doing my valve check / adjustment. I do have a caliper and I'll check if the Shim is 25mm in thickness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted July 17, 2009 Share #65 Posted July 17, 2009 FWIW, attached is a Shim pic next to a US Quarter with inscription of 2500 (not easily seen) and next to it is the special tool that I used to remove Shims on my Taurus SHO while doing my valve check / adjustment. I do have a caliper and I'll check if the Shim is 25mm in thickness. (I suspect you know this and it was just a terminology typo - but just in case...) The thickness is stamped on the back. 25 mm is the desired diameter. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 17, 2009 Share #66 Posted July 17, 2009 Yes, RedRider. You are right...25mm in thickness is not possible for a Shim to fit in the Venture. It is 'Diameter'. Heck, that is even thicker than my wallet. It is nice to know the spec. of 25mm diameter of a Shim...curious when I get home tonight and measure my Shims. Anyway, we've had some T-SHO owners who needed a certain size of Shim that was not readily available from a Ford dealership but were successful in getting the right size from a motorcycle shop ie: Yamaha dealer. (This was in 1995) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thistledown Posted July 17, 2009 Share #67 Posted July 17, 2009 Are there a few riders in the Richmond/ Fredricksburg, Virginia area that would like to get together and buy tool and shim kit to do this work? There or four going is together would ease the pain and a little get together to do the work would be fun.. any Takers ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share #68 Posted July 18, 2009 (edited) Just an FYI - I moved the original post and a few selected responses to the Tech Library, with some minor revisions here and there. May you all have many happy hours adjusting valves! Goose Edited July 18, 2009 by V7Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperhawk Posted July 18, 2009 Share #69 Posted July 18, 2009 Hmmm, seems like those little foam thingies sealing the crankcase vent connection to the air plenums might not be available. Has anyone had any luck replacing them? The foam rings to which I refer go around the openings on both sides of #22 in the parts breakdown below, but I sure can't find any sign of a seal or foam ring in that diagram:[ATTACH]33199[/ATTACH] Goose Looks like part 22 contains the foam things which means the that part comes with the foam rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperhawk Posted July 18, 2009 Share #70 Posted July 18, 2009 They are 25 MM shims. Same as in this auction which has Triumph as one of the makes. I have never used anything bigger the 285 and nothing smaller than 255. So some of those in that kit will be kinda of useless.Which also means you can get them at your local Honda ,Truimph, dealers .I think Kawasaki also uses them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CBX-Valve-Shim-Shims-2-50-to-3-10-25mm-size_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem5d256f0eccQQitemZ400059993804QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Honda CB750, CB750C, CB750F, CB750K, CB750SC dohc (79-83) CB900, CB900C, CB900F, CB1000C, CB1100F, CBX (all) Triumph Hinckly triples and fours Speed Triple, Tiger, Daytona, Trophy, Sprint Yamaha SRX250, XT250 TT350, XT350 (86-00) XJ600 Seca II (92-98) XVZ12 XVZ13 Venture Royale Royal Star (83-93) XVZ1200, XVZ12 VMX1200 V-Max (85-02) Vmax, VMX12 FJ1100, FJ1200 (84-93) Ok, still slightly lost or overloaded with info here. The shim kits come with two of everything, but what if I need more than two? So my bike is tore apart until I can order more of the shims I would need, right ? Also, unless I missed it some where in all of this, are the spark plugs removed too? to make it easier to turn the engine. Remember, Mechanic and I will be doing this since I have the ticking noise now, 28,000 miles on the bike. So I am looking at parts about $250, between shim kit, special tool, some kind of feeler gauge, gaskets, plugs, anti freeze, any other tool needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share #71 Posted July 18, 2009 Ok, still slightly lost or overloaded with info here. The shim kits come with two of everything, but what if I need more than two? So my bike is tore apart until I can order more of the shims I would need, right ? Also, unless I missed it some where in all of this, are the spark plugs removed too? to make it easier to turn the engine. Remember, Mechanic and I will be doing this since I have the ticking noise now, 28,000 miles on the bike. So I am looking at parts about $250, between shim kit, special tool, some kind of feeler gauge, gaskets, plugs, anti freeze, any other tool needed? The basic shim kits probably won't be good enough for the first job or two - I'd pretty much bet it will need more than two of one size or another. But like I said in the original post, there is no way of knowing for sure. A lot of it will depend on what sizes get taken out of the engine. The shims can be bought individually for about $5 each at most bike shops, and many of the service departments will just swap shims with you for free. The drag with either of those options is that you have to either keep making trips down to the shop every time you find a valve that needs a different shim, or you have to do a LOT of extra work to first pull all the shims that need to be changed, decide what size new shim you probably need for each of those valves, then go get the shims and start all over again putting them in and re-checking the clearance. All of the above is why I keep suggesting you try to find someone who already has a shim kit and is willing to loan it out. It really does not make sense to build your own unless you intend to help a lot of other members do this job. But if you do start a new kit, the first thing to do would be to trade in all the shims below 250 and above 280 for more shims between 260 and 275 - that would give you a much better chance of having what you needed. And yes, you do pull the plugs - that is mentioned in #4 of "The Job" in the first post. At 28,000 miles, the valve check is due, but I suspect you won't need to change many shims that early. My guess is that a few of the valves will be fairly close to minimum tolerance, but still OK; however, by the time the second valve service is due around 50,000 or 60,000 miles those particular valves will have moved to less than minimum, and you will need to change four of five of the shims by then. Unfortunately, you have to do all that work just to check the clearance and know for sure if any changes are needed. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim44 Posted July 19, 2009 Share #72 Posted July 19, 2009 Ok you CO people. Do any of you have the shim tool and or shim kits. Maybe we need to set up a time for a maintenance day. You know set valves and adjust floats and drink beer:thumbsup: Respond or pm me and we will see if we can make something happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 19, 2009 Share #73 Posted July 19, 2009 (I suspect you know this and it was just a terminology typo - but just in case...) The thickness is stamped on the back. 25 mm is the desired diameter. RR This is what my used T-SHO Shim measured on the caliper...see pic. (Slightly bigger than what is stated in this thread). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share #74 Posted July 19, 2009 This is what my used T-SHO Shim measured on the caliper...see pic. (Slightly bigger than what is stated in this thread). 29mm is another common shim size for older engines, and as you noted, it is not the same as 25mm. Now wasn't that easy? Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted July 19, 2009 Share #75 Posted July 19, 2009 I was just hoping that the Shims I already have would be the same exact Shims for a motorcycle. Oh well, I still have 20,000 miles to go before my first valve adjustment. I hope to be ready then and have all the parts needed on hand. I may start a parts list sometime soon. N3FOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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