Torque Wrench Questions

[RossKean]

How many use torque wrenches for routine maintenance and who tightens until it is "about right"? I realize that proper torque is absolutely critical for some applications.

Do you use more than one wrench (i.e. low range 1/4 or 3/8 plus high range- usually 1/2")?

What type of torque wrench do you use (i.e. "clicker")?

I have heard it mentioned that the torque specification (by Yamaha) for the axles are too high. For instance on the Roadstar, I believe that 110 ft.lb is recommended for the rear wheel while the general concensus is that 80 or so is sufficient. Any opinions for the RSV?

 

In the past, I have generally borrowed a torque wrench to use only for things I consider to be critical but I am thinking about buying a couple of new ones to cover the necessary ranges. (I have used the "about right" method for most stuff) Thought I would solicit some opinions. I am not into major stuff - I would leave an engine teardown to someone who knows more than I do - but I prefer to do everything I can.

 

Thanks

 

Ross

[Sylvester]

I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" clicker type torque wrench and use them when necessary. You can get good quality units at Harbor Freight Sales, Wholesale Tools, and Northern Tool plus many other discount houses. I use them for spec. work but not for normal activity. The cost is not high so you might as well own at least one.

[StarFan]

I use a swedge rod that one can change the reading plates when extending the rod. Took it to a friend of mine who has a high end "click wrench" and we did some accuracy tests. Mine was around 5% off and is accurate enough for me. A good Click wrench in Iceland costs around 400 US$ but I got this one for 90 US$ and it does everything I need to do. I only use this for critical points like axles etc,. And I use "Lock Tite" the mildest version on most accessory and body part bolts. Never had a bolt get loose on my bike after putting the stuff on.

[Marcarl]

For your info:

Things like the clutch springs need to be torqued, so that they are all even and you get no chatter, the axles need to be torqued to spec's or you'll run the risk of loosening off and loosing a wheel, or bad alingment so you get a wobble. In some cases too tight is not good, not enough flex or movement, in other cases too loose and things fall off,,, then you need a trailer. In a lot of cases, good and tight is quite acceptable where the issue is not critical, in other cases too tight can break a bolt, such as in the clutch springs (6 in pounds only),, don't ask me how I know. I have two click wrenchs now, an 3\8 inch pounds and a 1\2 foot pounds. Doesn't take long to get them out and they're handie for other things as well.

[T.J.]

Just the other day when we did the swing arm on my DRZ400 and installing it back together. I asked my nephew what the torque was suppose to be on the nut. He said, "real tight, that's how I do mine". I looked it up in the book and it was only 57 ft. lbs. That is not real tight! He probably crushed the thrust washers that are on both sides of his bike. It pays to read what the torque is suppose to be.

 

I only have one wrench for medium range.

[Condor]

I'm pro'bly as guilty as most when it comes to torquing a bolt. About the only thing I do pay attention to are the rods and main bearing bolts when rebuilding an engine. Breaking off a bolt head due to over torque, or having one work loose can mess up your whole day. Here's a nice little web tool for figuring out torque specs in both metric and SAE.

http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx?mode=metric

[pegscraper]

I have a 1/2" clicker and 3/8" beam type, both Craftsman. Both of them have both metric and standard scales on them, which is real nice. On cars, I've never used them for anything more than internal engine parts. On the bike I tend to use them more because more things tend to be a little more critical, and if something were to fail it would most likely be a lot hairier of a situation. Plus my wrist isn't very well calibrated for aluminum. It's easy to strip an aluminum bolt hole.

[KiteSquid]

I have two torque wrenches to cover 99% of my torque requirements. Both are the click type with reattaching heads, as I am efficient, not lazy....

 

When I was on Active Duty in the US Navy, whenever we performed maintenance, we had to assure that the test equipment (in this case torque wrench) was calibrated and that the certification was in date... So, if you can get your torque wrenches calibrated, you will have a more accurate torque.............. mine are. HOWEVER this can be an expensive service.

 

 

If you buy H-F tools, make sure you get them on sale... as H-F sells cheap tools, inexpensively.

[Guest Lightnen]

There is one thing to remember for your click type torque wrench's is when done with it ALWAYS back it off to "0" or below DO NOT leave it at the setting you used it on last.

Reason being is it will weaken the springs in it and will not be accurate next time its needed. When I was working we had to send our wrenchs out every 5yrs to be tested and certified. So if you have one in your box thats 15 or 20 years old I'd suggest ya get a buddy that has a newer one and compare the two together just to be sure..

 

[RossKean]

Thanks for all of the input. Still haven't decided whether I am going to buy a pair of torque wrenches or continue as I have in the past. I would definately at least borrow one for serious engine or clutch work. Don't have anything major to do on the bike right now so maybe I'll wait awhile.

 

Ross

[5bikes]

I only use a torque wrench on head bolts. It's a fell thing. I hate overtightened bolts. I use grease on almost all bolts so disassembly is easy, reduces stripping and eases starting. I teach this to all my friends learning to work on bikes.

100 ft lbs on wheel axles is way too much.

Small bolts use less pressure, as the bolt/nut gets larger tighten more.

Going into aluminum? Grease/anti-seeze for sure and less pressure.

Yes I have lost a few noncritical bolts/nuts but always from forgetting to do them not from under tightening. I've worked on 125+ vehicles.

Always double check you tightened all fasteners. Tighten same/surrounding bolts evenly. Brakes, axles, pivot points are critical.

If you don't have "the feel" use a torque wrench.

 

I had a piece of **** BMW K1200LT. The swing arm 14mm (head size) bolts had 125+ ft lbs! Broke 2 sockets trying to loosen them. Had to use a 1/2" drive heavy duty thick wall impact socket, 15" breaker bar and a 2 foot long cheater bar to get them loose. My wife came out after they cracked loose asking if I was ok!!!

[hcdagen]

A torque wrench is a a LOT cheaper than a Heli-coil kit.It is also much quicker to use than tearing everthing off the side of a bike so you can get at a stripped case bolt hole.Ask me why my 21 year old son no longer works on my bikes.

[Sling]

IMHO, A torque wrench is very important. I work on Corp.Jet aircraft Engines,

and just about every bolt and nut is torqued.

Under torqued bolt or nut could be bad as it can back off and it might give a warning

prior to something going wrong. BUT----an over tightened bolt could be disastrous.

It will be over stressed and could possibly break with no warning break,and doesn't have to break when you over tighten it. Could be while you are on the road .

I own 3 torque wrenches 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive, 1/2" drive. all click type

[starman]

How do you convert in. lbs to ft.lbs. just did my clutch and couldnt find a in. lb wrench?

[BradT]

How do you convert in. lbs to ft.lbs. just did my clutch and couldnt find a in. lb wrench?

 

12 inch pounds = 1 ft lb

 

Brad

[Ivan]

I have a 1/2 inch Snap-on clicker and a 3/8 Mac clicker. Most bolts have a standardized torque, I.E. a 5/16 NC bolt is generally 35 ft-lbs. There are published charts for torque standards that are available, probably with a simple google search. When I worked on Detroit Diesels (the old ones) the spects would say things like:

 

Rod cap nuts: Standard

Crosshead Bolts: 75Ft-lbs

Main bearing cap bolts : standard

and so on.

 

Detroit had a handy little book that listed all teh standard torques from a 4-40 thread all the way past 2" threads.

 

While torque is critical, at some point, you'll get a "Calibrated Elbow" that lets you know when it is good. Common sense should tell you when you need to find a critical torque. Oil pan bolts on a Chevy 305 are finger tight with a 1/4 rattle wrench, while head bolts on a Ford 4.6l will be something like torque to 45 ft-lbs, loosen two turns, torque to 75 ft-lbs and an additional 74º.

 

Anyone that can prove they have a torque-angle meter gets bonus points in this thread, and a free styrofoam cup. (The coffee is extra)

[Squidley]

There is one thing to remember for your click type torque wrench's is when done with it ALWAYS back it off to "0" or below DO NOT leave it at the setting you used it on last.

Reason being is it will weaken the springs in it and will not be accurate next time its needed. When I was working we had to send our wrenchs out every 5yrs to be tested and certified. So if you have one in your box thats 15 or 20 years old I'd suggest ya get a buddy that has a newer one and compare the two together just to be sure..

 

Excellent advise with this post, always back a clicker off. I have a 3/8" snapon clicker that goes up to 100 ft lbs and that does pretty much everything on the bikes. I would absolutely suggest you get at least 1 and if you can afford to get a 3/8" and a 1/2" then do it, they are a great investment

[RossKean]

I have been looking at a couple of wrenches at Canadian Tire (on sale this week). One has a range of 30-250 inch-lb and the other is 20-250 ft.-lb. Unfortunately, both would be required to cover the ranges on the Venture.

 

Ross

[Squeeze]

I have several Torque Wrenches and different Styles also. Clicker, Dial Gauges and Angle Scaled From 1/4 with 10 ft.lbs up to 1/2 with max 120 ft.lbs. Not that i'd need them, they found their Way into my Shop over the Years.

 

I'd recommend a 1/4" with up to 40 ft-lbs or so and a 3/8" up to 110 ft.lbs to cover our Bikes. No need an no Sense for 1/2" Clicker on the Bike.

 

The Thing is. every Torque Wrench has a typical Error. It's usually 4 or 5 Percent of the upper End of the Scale. If you use a 1/2 Wrench with a Range from 20 up to 150 ft.lbs the Error being in between Specs would be 6 ft.lbs. Now .... add 6 ft.lbs typical Error to 20 ft.lbs and you get a 25 Percent over torqued Bolt while everything is fine in Specs and Range.

 

You always want to choose the Wrench which your desired Torque is at least in the upper third near the End of the Scale. Just because the Error is not so significant the higher you reach to End of the Scale.