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So i called my nearest ymaha shop to get a new front tire. they asked what bike and year and after they looked up the tire they had service set up a time to install it. they again asked what bike and year. so all was good. the tire came in today and when i talked to service they said oh we dont work on any bike older then a 2000 :confused24: even just to install a tire that they said they would when i ordered the tire? I was pissed but they had already charged my card when they ordered it. they mount it but if i bring in the wheel though.:headache:

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So i called my nearest ymaha shop to get a new front tire. they asked what bike and year and after they looked up the tire they had service set up a time to install it. they again asked what bike and year. so all was good. the tire came in today and when i talked to service they said oh we dont work on any bike older then a 2000 :confused24: even just to install a tire that they said they would when i ordered the tire? I was pissed but they had already charged my card when they ordered it. they mount it but if i bring in the wheel though.:headache:

 

 

So these morons will work on a 2000 RSV, but not a 1999 RSV? :doh: IDIOTS!

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I've heard of dealers not working on bikes 5 - 10 yrs old but never not put a tire on an older bike. That's a new one. Guess you need to find somewhere else to get your tires. Don't blame you for getting mad, I would have too.

 

Margaret

 

I would have stopped payment through the credit card company. The only reason I could possibly believe anyone would consider buying a tire through a dealer at their inflated prices would be because you never wanted the aggravation of removing and reinstalling.

 

Dick

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The only reason I could possibly believe anyone would consider buying a tire through a dealer at their inflated prices would be because you never wanted the aggravation of removing and reinstalling.

 

Dick

 

Well, I've gotten my last couple tires from a dealer because with ordering a new tire, shipping and "on the bike" installation, the tires were about the same price across the board.

 

Some dealers cut you a deal on installation if you buy the tires from them. If I were to buy the tires from somewhere else and have a dealer install (keep in mind, not everyone wants to hassle with, or has the equipment for, taking off the wheels and taking them in to have the tire mounted) it would be, roughly $120 to $130. My dealer would do the install for $20 per tire if I purchased the tires from them. It ended up being the same or slightly cheaper that way.

 

That being said, I've also heard of dealers that draw the line at 10 year old bikes but, as mini said, never for just changing tires. I'd tell them to kindly refund my charge and I will go somewhere that WILL change tires on you bike. If they refuse, I agree, stop the payment and go elsewhere.

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Another good reason to let the dealer install - If you order a tire and there is a problem, you get to pay to have it unmounted shipped back and wait for a replacement. My guys put on a commander and it was bad - they had another in stock and replaced the same day - no charge. It was worth the extra $3 to get it all from them. and no hassles

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(I would have refused the tire but I wanted the tire for the weekend. I did fond a local bike shop who will work on anything and although I didnt buy the tire from him installed it today for me for $50. even with my extra covers and lights.

 

T & E Cycle

1700 Steadley Ave :thumbsup2:

Punta Gorda, FL

(941) 639-7200

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It's worth the price of the tools to take the wheels off yourself. Jack and a couple of sockets. Makes it also better because you don't have to wait 3 weeks before they have time to do the change for you. Time taken for taking the wheels off and on is about 1.5 hours max.

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Yah! Front can be taken off while on the centerstand. The rear is a little more work, and needs to be on a MC jack...

 

eh? on a 1st gen? never used a jack on mine...

 

What I have had to do is prop the front up on blocks to remove the front tire so that it don't come crashing down on the tubes.

 

oh, I get it now... if on the jack, ya don't have to take the bags, etc off....?? hmmm well, I'll have to be getting one of those jacks seein as I got my eyes on a 2nd gen now.

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I'm glad I had not read any thing about needing to remove bags when I replaced the rear on the 86. I may have done it the hard way if I had.

MikeM I do believe that T&E would be my new point of sale from now on too. If you start showing your face and buying nik-knaks from them they'll start doing you even better as a loyal customer.

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picture.php?albumid=163&pictureid=892i just got done doing the tires on my 88. I took em off as per the directions on this sites, how to threads. Its in the first gen section I believe. Wasnt to hard and didn't need a MC jack. Took the tires I got online for $137.00 shipped "Kenda Kruz" and the wheels to the stealer that quoted me $25/tire. After they were done he charged me $35 a tire. Even thou I specifically ask him about mounting the tires on the wheels I bring to him. A week before I took them up to them. "You didn't buy em from me' " I have to make a living" he said. He bait and switched me.:mad: I was pissed. I would have taken them to a small shop I know of, if he had not lied to me about the price
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my trick for pulling the rear tire only and i have a trailer hitch is to put it up on the center stand than put 2 jack stands under the motor crash bars and use a floor jack under the rear shock bracket just in front of the rear tire . all i have to pull off is the brake caliber and mufflers . a Condor wheel chock instead of jack stands work too and makes it easyer to strap down the front forks .

Thom

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my trick for pulling the rear tire only and i have a trailer hitch is to put it up on the center stand than put 2 jack stands under the motor crash bars and use a floor jack under the rear shock bracket just in front of the rear tire . all i have to pull off is the brake caliber and mufflers . a Condor wheel chock instead of jack stands work too and makes it easyer to strap down the front forks .

Thom

 

Interesting. I would like to see this method. Sounds safer and easier than what I did. When I did the 86 I sat it on the center stand, slid a 4 foot(app) long piec of 4" channel iron under the front wheel. I then tied off the handlebars side to side like I was tying it down for transport, then used a hoist to pick the rear up far enough to remove just as you did, with only removing one muffler. Pure redneck engineering, but it worked and was very stable.

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when i tryed using a m/c jack , it was not high enough to get the rear tire off , sometime when i want the bike real high , i jack it up on a m/c jack than put the 2 jackstand under the crash bars , than remove the m/c jack and use a floor jack but i allways strap down the forks

Thom

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A couple of 2X4's or 2X6's give you the extra room you need. Yes, it makes it possible to remove the rear tire without removing the bags, but by the same token the bags come off easy enough...

 

but think about it Bob , my butt is bigger and is closer to the ground than your the mark 1s.

i got to thinking [ one the rare times ] a stand like Carbon one's made to fit a 1st gen with 2 scissor jacks welded on top to raise the front or rear ?

Thom

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I have used the front kneeling method several times to access the rear tire. It works well. Center stand bike and tie forward with a strap.Put 2-3 bags of salt on rear seat to pop bike off the front tire. Remove front tire and kneel the forks onto a piece of plyboard. It may help to have 2 people. One could remove a salt bag and help the balance. As you grab the fairing and lower the front it will get a bit heavier. Then remove the other bags. Remove the RH muffler and the caliper. The wheel came out from under the bike easily. I am note sure about the extra light bar. Go here for a full description.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1393

 

JB

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