Midicat Posted June 23, 2019 Share #1 Posted June 23, 2019 I have upgraded headlight to LED (shout out to Evan for the link on EBay.) It is phenomenally bright! Can someone provide graphic instructions (not language but rather, detailed ) (pics would be awesome for a simpleton like me) on how to rid my dash of headlight icon with red light as well as white headlight warning light? Many thanks in advance! Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted June 23, 2019 Share #2 Posted June 23, 2019 Jumper the CMS circuit board: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted June 23, 2019 Share #3 Posted June 23, 2019 Now that you have the pictures, do you need some help to accomplish the unknown? I might have to do another rightup on it later, just so the rest of the varmits can spend days on deciphering to figure out just how it happened that two of the best varmits managed to launch themselves into the great blue unknown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted June 23, 2019 Share #4 Posted June 23, 2019 Do you mind sharing this link to ebay to the wonderer whos been roaming from town to town and getting his kicks on route 66!! LMFAO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 23, 2019 Share #5 Posted June 23, 2019 The above instructions will make the icon and red light go away, You still will need to jumper the RLU to make the white light go away. If the RLU thinks the headlight is burned out it will switch to high beam and light the white light, if the high beam is out it will switch to lo beam and light the white light. It does this my monitoring the current draw on the headlight circuits. A bulb like an LED that draws less power can trip this safety feature. what happens is that the RLU can end up switching very fast back and forth between lo and hi beams, this can end up burning out the bulb. There are some threads on how to do this, I will have to see if I can find them. Unless someone else finds them first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 23, 2019 Share #6 Posted June 23, 2019 https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129385-1st-Gen-LED-Headlight&highlight=videoarizona+headlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midicat Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share #7 Posted June 24, 2019 Do you mind sharing this link to ebay to the wonderer whos been roaming from town to town and getting his kicks on route 66!! LMFAO Hi Snyper316, Here is what I have installed. It's fantastic. https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_156133886505311&key=e24a6de127caafe43f772df085fb6605&libId=jx9oufip0100a62s000MA80ko7nyz&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.venturerider.org%2Fforum%2Fprivate.php%3Fdo%3Dshowpm%26pmid%3D468877&v=1&type=U&opt=true&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.superbrightleds.com%2Fmoreinfo%2Fmotorcycle-high-beam-and-low-beam-headlight-bulb%2Fh4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-internal-drivers-4000-lumensset%2F5321%2F11896%2F%3Fmake%3D105%26model%3D3736%26scc_id%3D1940%26year%3D1988%23tab%2Foverview&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.venturerider.org%2Fforum%2Fprivate.php&title=Re%3A%20LED%20Headlight%20-%20VentureRider.Org&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.superbrightleds.com%2Fmoreinfo%2Fmotorcycle-high-beam-and-low-beam-headlight-bulb%2Fh4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted June 24, 2019 Share #8 Posted June 24, 2019 https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle/motorcycle-headlight-load-resistor-h4-led-headlight-bulbs/2932/6284/ Found this kn your link.... I wonder if it would work with our system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midicat Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share #9 Posted June 24, 2019 https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle/motorcycle-headlight-load-resistor-h4-led-headlight-bulbs/2932/6284/ Found this kn your link.... I wonder if it would work with our system. I am very interested in this. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Plug and play is much more convenient than unbolt, unplug, dismantle, solder, reassemble, replug, rebolt, cross fingers. Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted June 24, 2019 Share #10 Posted June 24, 2019 I am very interested in this. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Plug and play is much more convenient than unbolt, unplug, dismantle, solder, reassemble, replug, rebolt, cross fingers. Thomas Looks like it might work, but if you use it then there won't be any power savings by going LED only maybe better light projection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 24, 2019 Share #11 Posted June 24, 2019 (edited) I am very interested in this. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Plug and play is much more convenient than unbolt, unplug, dismantle, solder, reassemble, replug, rebolt, cross fingers. Thomas Will work. But understand you are still drawing 50 watts of power...so you care gaining nothing with respect to the low current draw of LED's. That plus the unit will get hot. It's a load resister. Edited June 24, 2019 by videoarizona ah.... Carl beat me to it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted June 24, 2019 Share #12 Posted June 24, 2019 How about a piece of black electrical tape applied over the offending light?!!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PastorCurt Posted June 24, 2019 Share #13 Posted June 24, 2019 That was my solution for a number of years! And I never had to take anything apart or even do much thinking!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvmy40 Posted June 24, 2019 Share #14 Posted June 24, 2019 I wonder if it would be possible to mount a small magnet with the reed switch to boost the low power signal from the LED lamp? Or(lets get really deep in this) make an amplifier to run the read switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midicat Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share #15 Posted June 24, 2019 Looks like it might work, but if you use it then there won't be any power savings by going LED only maybe better light projection. I originally swapped the bulb for the benefit of visibility. Both to see and to be seen. Now I am thinking that less stress on the stator is a good thing. Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midicat Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share #16 Posted June 24, 2019 Will work. But understand you are still drawing 50 watts of power...so you care gaining nothing with respect to the low current draw of LED's. That plus the unit will get hot. It's a load resister. packing that load resistor into such an already cramped space does make me nervous. The fact that it will generate heat makes sense. I don't want to smell burning wires while out for a ride. Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midicat Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share #17 Posted June 24, 2019 How about a piece of black electrical tape applied over the offending light?!!? bongobobny, I like the way you think. I think that will be my short term solution. Thank you. Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted June 25, 2019 Share #18 Posted June 25, 2019 Here's how I eliminated the 'Reserve Lighting Unit' from my 89...... https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92344-How-I-installed-LED-headlight-kit-in-my-89&highlight=frankd+headlight This is the section you need.... (See picture #1) You can see the RLU (Reserve Lighting Unit) at the top of the picture. Follow the wiring out of it to the connector. On the motorcycle side of the connector, cut and tape the G/R, Y/G, and the light green wires (the light green isn't shown in the picture). Now, you'll be able to switch between high and low beam, and the HEADLIGHT white lamp on the instrument panel won't come on, but the blue high-beam light on the instrument panel won't work. To get that working, on the motorcycle side of the instrument panel connector, cut the Y and the R/Y wires leaving about 2” of them still on the connector. Tape the 2 wires not in the connector (that you just cut). Using two 12” lengths of 16-20 gauge connect them to the Y and the R/Y wires from the connector. I soldered mine and used shrink tubing to insulate them, but you could use butt connectors. (picture #2) Actually, I went back to the stock headlight because of the radio frequency noise (RFI) generated by the LED headlight I had mad my radio(s) useless unless you had a strong station you wanted to listen to. Right after I put the LED headlight in, we moved to Tennesee and we don't have many near by radio stations. Some of you that have the newer LED headlights could do me a favor. With your key in the Accessory position, tune in a weak FM station. Then turn the key to on and see if the station can still be heard. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted June 25, 2019 Share #19 Posted June 25, 2019 I originally swapped the bulb for the benefit of visibility. Both to see and to be seen. Now I am thinking that less stress on the stator is a good thing. Thomas MIDICAT If you have a stock GEN1 charging setup, your stator current is the same no matter how much load is on the system. The voltage regulator controls the voltage by switching on a load when ever the voltage gets to a threshold (14.4V) and dissipates this extra power as heat. It's known as a "SHUNT REGULATOR". The GEN2 bikes (at least some of them) have a 'SERIES REGULATOR" and with it the stator current will go down at lighter loads. I converted my 89 to the series regulator, but I had to mount it in the fairing because it's bigger than the OEM rectifier/regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 25, 2019 Share #20 Posted June 25, 2019 How about a piece of black electrical tape applied over the offending light?!!? If the white light is on a piece of tape will not fix it. You still have to disable the automatic switching of the RLU between Hi and Lo beam. The load resistor will only work if the bikes electrical system is supplying all the power to the headlight bulb, if there is a separate power wire to the battery then the load resistor may not help. As mentioned, the load resistor will also negate any power savings from the LED and may even make things worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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