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lwinders

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Everything posted by lwinders

  1. lwinders
    I checked the master cylinder the other day and found that the small holes you are talking about were in fact stopped up. I took a small wire from a wire brush and cleared the holes the best I could. Although they may need some more attention. I am going to pull the master cylinder off tonight and make sure everything is in good shape. And as I said, I am also going to pull the caliper and check it out. Where can I get new seals for the caliper?
  2. lwinders
    Thank you for the suggestions. I know for a fact that the reservoir is completely full because I filled it until it wouldn’t take anymore. I didn’t know this would be a problem. When I turn the rear wheel, I can hear the brakes rubbing. I took it for another ride after checking the proportional valve but the rotor still got hot. I will be removing the rear wheel to replace the tire so I will take the caliper off and give it a good cleaning again. When I worked on it the last time, I remember that the sleeves were pretty tight. They may need to be polished.
  3. lwinders
    Well, I finally got all the plastic back on my ’83 VR and took it for a little ride. I only rode about 5 miles because I still need new tires. I am really pleased with the way it is running. Now I’m really getting excited about getting it on the road. I’ve haven’t had the carbs synced yet but I really don’t see how it can run much smoother. Of course I’ve been riding my 1100 so maybe it just seems smooth because I’m going from a V-twin to the Venture. So now comes my question. When I returned from the short ride, my rear brake rotor was very, very hot. I knew my brake was dragging, but I guess it was worse than I thought. I’ve done some more work on the proportional valve and it seems a little better but I was wondering how much drag is acceptable. When I try to spin the rear wheel, it will only turn about ¼ turn after I release it. I would appreciate any ideas on how to free it up. I’ve had the calipers apart and cleaned them. The brakes do seem a little spongy.
  4. lwinders
    On my '83, there is only a round bumper pad that just rests against the bar at that position.
  5. lwinders
    I found the problem this weekend. I was in the process of checking to make sure I had a good ground and noticed to wires with in-line fuses. I checked and both fuses were blown. I replaced them and now the radio works fine. But there still may be a problem that may have caused the blown fuses to begin with. With the radio off, when I turn the key on, there is a pop that comes from the speakers and then you can hear a faint humming coming from the speakers. I am thinking this is not normal considering that the radio is turned off. When I turn the radio on, it seems to work very well.
  6. lwinders
    First of all, I'm not an electronics guy so I'm not sure where to begin to trace down this problem. The radio on my '83 doesn't work at all. All I have done so far is try to deturnine if I'm getting power to it. I unplugged the plug from the back of the radio and tested all of the pins. I am getting power to some of them but I don't know if that really means anything. Anyway, I guess I'm just looking for a starting point to find the problem. I don't know if the tape deck works or not because I've been afraid to put a tape in it. When I turn the radio on, I don't get any lights or anything. Where should I begin? Thanks in advance for your help.
  7. lwinders
    Thanks to everyone for the help. I'm getting closer everyday to getting her on the road.
  8. lwinders
    Marcarl, Did you add the additional resistor as well?
  9. lwinders
    I am going to put in the bypass for the battery level sensor on my '83 VR. I notice that there is already a resistor in the line. It looks factory. Do I remove this resistor when I put the new one in or do I just add the additional resistor?
  10. lwinders
    Does anyone have a windshield for an '83 VR? Mine has a film on it that I have not been able to get off. I've tried everything short of trying to sand and repolish. Before I attempt this, I thought I should see if I can find another windshield just in case I mess mine up beyond repair.
  11. lwinders
    Thanks, I'll give it a try.
  12. lwinders
    Monty, where did you buy it at?
  13. lwinders
    Before I got my VR, it had sat for a very long time and had gunk all over it. Last night I decided to put the windshield back on but first had to clean it. I took it in the house and put it in the bathtub (the wife was proud of me:whistling:) and thought it would be a easy job. After some gentle cleaning with mild soap, I still had a film on it. I am pretty sure it is tree sap. Is there an easy way of cleaning it that won't damage it. I've tried dish washing liquid. I know windex isn't recomended but I tried it on a small area but it didn't help either. I am able to scrape off with my finger nail so I know it should come off. Any ideas? The seat also is covered with what is probably sap, although, it actually looks like tar.
  14. lwinders
    Thanks Keemez, Now I know.
  15. lwinders
    Yammer, I'm not sure what you mean by di-electric grease:confused24:
  16. lwinders
    I re-soldered the connections on the board and now it works like a charm. Thanks for all the help. After letting it set overnight, I noticed that it lost some pressure. Lost 4 lbs. psi. on the front and 8 lbs. psi. on the rear. Is this normal or do I need to start looking for leaks?
  17. lwinders
    Thank you. This is very helpful. I'll pull the unit and check it out.
  18. lwinders
    Thanks Randy, I'll check that.
  19. lwinders
    Thank you very much. I guess now I have some work to do tonight.
  20. lwinders
    Well now that I have my "flashing warning light" issue corrected, it's time to move on. I'm trying to get the CLASS to work. I'm getting an E1 error. According to the manual, it may be a connection problem somewhere. I guess I'll just start and the front and work my way back, cleaning all connections with contact cleaner. This bike has been setting for a very long time so I'll probably need to go through everything. Is there anything I need to be aware of?
  21. lwinders
    I cleaned the sensor and now everything is good. (mostly) All warning indicators are off. The only problem now is that sometimes the gas gauge doesn't register and that gives a warning. After setting for a few minutes it finally begins to register and then the warning light goes off. I may need to take the unit out of the tank and give it a good cleaning. Thanks to everyone for the help. Now on to the CLASS
  22. lwinders
    Brian, It's a new batter. I filled it myself so I know the fluid level is good. The probe is corroded pretty badly so that may be the problem. I'm going to try cleaning it as suggested in a previous post. I don't see any signs of a modification being made to it so maybe the resistor will work.
  23. lwinders
    Condor, It's the red light in to top left corner of the display area.
  24. lwinders
    Thanks Twigg, I'll take that into consideration. You are probably right. If I go ahead and use the resistors, then I won't have to worry about it.
  25. lwinders
    I found the thread about adding the resistor. The battery I purchased does have the hole for the sensor. I tried putting the sensor probe in but it didn't seem to fit tight enough to stay in place. Also, when the sensor was in place, the batter indicator stayed on. The probe was a little corroded so maybe I just need to clean it. I'll try that first and if it doesn't work, I'll go with the resistor. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it goes. Then I'll move on to my next problem which is the CLASS.
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