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Big_Iz

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Everything posted by Big_Iz

  1. Try the 00/01 calipers from the R1. I have them on mine, along with the black SS line kit and VMax splitter from Skydoc. He is great to deal with! I will admit that I stuck the 14mm master and calipers on with whatever pads were on them (from ebay) and was unimpressed. When I switched to the EBC HH pads, THEN I was completely impressed! Iz
  2. I thought the OEM front brakes wouldn't lock up as equipped J/K, never heard of an antilock retrofit for the RSV.
  3. It might be a 14mm, I don't know, but the ones I have seen are a totally different style.
  4. Remove both braces at the same time -- no problem
  5. Well, I'm looking for either a CD changer or a set of Kury offset pegs for my RSV -- figure I need about $150 so that's what I'll be asking.
  6. They are definitely loud. I put one on a friend's RSV I was working on yesterday and it was over my tolerable limit. I was thinking of stuffing some expanded steel into the inlet end to break up the sound flow a bit, but I might just sell them and have it over with.
  7. http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-1685-1336931445293.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-1599-1336931444739.jpg All I can tell you is they are deep at idle and bark really loud when you crack it open.
  8. I have a set of fishtail pipes for the RSV that I'm trying to ID before I sell. No identifying marks on it that I have found. RSV mounting tab for under the bags. No seams, can't remove the baffles. I'm thinking Samson, but don't know how to verify. Any thoughts? I'll get some photos posted later this afternoon. Iz
  9. The covers were on the bike when I picked it up last year -- sorry, can't help you there.
  10. Go ahead and run them with the stock M/C. It will work, many will say just as good, and you get at least partial benefit while you wait for a M/C to float your way. The 14mm M/C will give you better feel, fine control and more power per equivalent power of pull on the lever, but the 5/8 will still work.
  11. Agreed on it being too full, especially when you top it off just before you replace worn pads with nice thick new ones
  12. I thought that was the LOW line. I should know this since I have had it apart so much, isn't there sort of a lip or ring about 3/8" down from the top on the inside that indicates full (about the depth of the rubber boot when fully collapsed)?
  13. Fair enough! http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-21311-1336780621837.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-21309-1336780620103.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-36348-1336780620965.jpg http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/IMG_20120508_172850.jpg And the obligatory bike shot... http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l115/Big_Iz/stuff/photobucket-21589-1336780618331.jpg
  14. 02-05 Road Star 1700 is what mine came from. Looks the same as OEM, other than the stock says 5/8 (lower left relative to the sight glass) and the Road Star says 14. Mine came in a little rough for my taste, so I stripped the clear coat, wet sanded, restored the factory brush/buff lines with a 000 steel wool pad, and sprayed with clear lacquer. You wouldn't know it wasn't new.
  15. I didn't mess with the chain on the RSV. With the tool, the RSV was the easiest adjustment procedure I have ever done (except for the tear down/reassembly). I was referring to my other bike, the VStrom 1000, of which I don't have to mess with the chain either, compared to the next one lined up, a ZX-9R, which will probably be the biggest pain of them all.
  16. I have always done my own work, but I admit that this is the first shim/bucket valve adjustment I have undertaken. Disassembly of the RSV was tedious and intimidating this first time, but thankfully I had extra time this week to not have to rush. Tomorrow starts the teardown of the VStrom to do its overdue valve adjustment -- at least those cams are gear driven at the head, so you don't have to fight with the chain. Earl, I would like to try to sort some of the shims for you before I send the kit back, but I'll get it in the mail by Friday.
  17. I would rate the OEM setup with OEM pads about a 4 on the scale -- in my opinion, on the edge of being dangerously low on power. In comparison, I would rate my new setup at a 9 -- considering the mass of that large of a bike, the way I look at it, a 10 would be dangerous at the other end of the spectrum, being overpowered and prone to lockup or uncontrolled braking in adverse conditions if that makes sense. Maybe that helps, maybe that just makes it more like mud
  18. As both a procrastinator and one who's latest promotion has consumed a ton of my free time, I admit that I have had almost all of these parts sitting on the shelf for a full year. What a colossal mistake on my part. The last bit I was holding out on was a 14mm master cylinder. I found what I wanted on eBay last week -- had to strip and refinish, but that took less time than I expected. Skydoc_17 had provided the SS lines (I asked him to special order black so it would look more like stock and it does) and VMax splitter; all of which were still in the sealed USPS box that he mailed them to me in. I cleaned and painted my eBay sourced R1 calipers solid black to get rid of the blue anodized stars. Installation was straightforward and uneventful. Since I already had the bike torn down for the valve adjustment (another big thank you to skydoc_17) it was a couple days before I could get it on the street. My initial impression was, lets say much below satisfactory. I was actually pissed within the first 2 stops at how much time I had put into the project. To be fair, I had gone cheap and reused whatever pads (still had good meat, no idea what brand) were loaded in the calipers. Fortunately, my local shop had a pair of the EBC HH pads on the shelf. Second impression was light years ahead. I couldn't have asked for a better result. The albino water buffalo now bleeds off speed equivalent or better than any other big touring bike I have ever owned or ridden. If you are on the fence, let me shove you over to the other side. Even if you stick with the stock 5/8" master cylinder, its a step in the right direction. Iz
  19. Lacquer thinner and steel wool took it right off, so I'm thinking a can of spray lacquer clear coat. I want it to look stock.
  20. I'm the idiot on this one -- sorry about the question on the tall-vs-short, don't know what I thought I saw. Anyway, I have my 14mm master cylinder and have stripped off the old clear coat. Now, I need to figure out what to use for clear coat once I buff out a few imperfections.
  21. Is anyone out there loaning/renting a valve shim kit? I can't verify that the PO ever checked the valves and one of the cover gaskets seems to be leaking, so I might as well pull it apart and make sure. Thanks in advance, Iz
  22. On your 09, isn't your front brake master cylinder reservoir about 3/8" taller than your clutch reservoir? My friend at work just got an 08 and his is that way -- my '00 is the same height between both sides. I get the whole bit about added capacity and supposed cooling, not that I agree with the concept, but I'm just wondering if they made a 14mm M/C in the shorter version. I don't have measurements on either, but I can at least check mine.
  23. That's what I was thinking, but needed a 2nd opinion. Next question is can I find a 14mm master cylinder in the "short" version like my OEM yr 2000 has instead of just the "tall" versions I am seeing out there.
  24. On the 14mm master, is there a version out there that isn't the "tall" version, but still in the same style silver unit? If so, what bike does it come from?
  25. Does anyone happen to know about the finish on the OEM master cylinder? Is it paint, raw aluminum with clear, or some other kind of coating? I'm trying to get a used 14mm master cylinder but would like to make sure its the same color as my original silver color on the 2000 RSV.
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