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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. Better than the wife announcing "You have to sell the trike, we're having a baby!". RR
  2. I assume this is a 2nd gen. Having done a few clutches, you have made a good choice with the Barnett. Couple of things. 1) If you are using a solid innermost friction disc, you don't need the wire. Gently remove it (so it can be reused when you don't like the limited clutch handle throw); 2) You don't have the discs aligned properly. Take it apart and carefully replace one at a time. Note the flat that has two notches in it. This is critical to the alignment. There are two corresponding dots on the clutch housing that mark the proper orientation of the clutch discs. I think this will take care of your issue. Make sure you are using an IN-LB torque wrench on the clutch pressure plate bolts. They don't take much and will easily strip out. Good luck. RR
  3. The pump is made by Progressive. HD just sticks their label on it. However, when I was buying one, the HD labelled unit was the same or less than the Progressive. And it was in stock locally. Works great. 7 psi max. Just a reminder - DO NOT USE A COMPRESSOR ON THE FRONT FORKS!!! IF YOU DO, YOU WILL BE REPLACING FORK SEALS IMMEDIATELY. RR
  4. I am going to be on the SE side for a short while on Saturday. Homestead High area (my folks live there). Once I leave, I am heading to Angola to visit a friend and then heading south. Going to Angola takes me right through that area. If you have 10-15 minutes, I would be glad to stop by and walk you through taking off the faring. It is pretty easy once you've done once or twice. Lemme know. RR
  5. Yup, to do it correctly, you need to split the faring. It's easy to do though. Where in FtW do you live? RR
  6. Does that mean the CL guy showed up for the VMax? RR
  7. Jeff, On 1st Gen knowledge, I bow to your superiority. Didn't know you could do the shims without pulling the carbs. It also makes sense about the valve issue. Will be interesting to hear. RR
  8. 1st - Valve shim check. First mechanic is likely used to working on older HDs where they need a top end refresh every 40-50k miles. I would bet on a tight shim. Don't run the bike until you get this part fixed. If it is a tight shim, it can burn the valve/seat which will require significant work to repair. 2nd - Seafoam for the carbs 3rd - if the Seafoam doesn't work, need to pull the carbs and clean them out. It is likely you will pull the carbs to do the valve shims anyway. So, skip step 2. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out. RR
  9. This is a great topic for those that ride long distances (I do). My sign of fatigue is when corners are no longer smooth. When fully rested, it is a clean sweep through a corner. When fatigued, I seem to step through it (turn, straight, turn, straight, etc.). Time to get a hotel. RR
  10. 2000 changed OEM shock at about 110,000 miles. Installed Baron. RR
  11. Don't worry. They'll send up an ironing board and iron to get the wrinkles out. RR
  12. I regularly get over 15k miles out of an E3. Haven't run one all the way to bald since I have a tendency to do my miles in chunks of several thousand at a time and starting a trip with a marginal tire is foolish. Usually keep my older tire for a backup if the new one gets cut, but haven't had to use it yet. Would like to see how many miles I could actually get out of an E3. RR
  13. http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/ RR
  14. AMA (American Motorcycle Association) provides towing service with membership. $40/year IIRC. RR
  15. They stopped by Bed, Bath, and Beyond on the way home so he would smell good. This morning they are browsing IKEA. RR
  16. RedRider

    Moonshine

    Wish I could go this year. Too busy. Went the last couple of years and had fun. The last picture is the line for a Moon Burger. Good times, good times. RR
  17. But his wife recovered the frogs they had gigged earlier. RR
  18. I purchased a Hagon shock last year and have liked it. Less expensive than a Works shock (or an OEM). The Hagen, as well as the Works, is rebuildable I do believe. RR
  19. Every morning. I may install a TPMS system if i can find one for relatively cheap. RR
  20. Yes, it was sold out in about 10 hours. Kind of like a Rolling Stones concert. I got in by getting signed up at about 5am. If I do better this year, 2019 is the year for me to run the Iron Butt Rally!! RR
  21. Steve, Yes I did. Sorry I didn't respond back. It was very interesting. Thank you for doing that. RR
  22. Just finished getting the bike refreshed. Had a few extra items that showed up that needed done. Swing arm bearings replaced Rear suspension bearings, sleeves, bolts, and dogbones replaced Upgraded all HIDs to LEDS (headlight and running lights) Still need to do a colortune and carb sync. Unfortunately, it is a little snowy around here to get the bike out of the shop to get it warmed up. Perhaps next weekend. Other than that, it is ready to go!! RR
  23. Chaharley, That is a lot of money and work to put into a $1000 car. Did you get it for free? RR
  24. Check bowl float levels. You have already mastered the most difficult part - removing and replacing the carbs. Check in the 2nd Gen tech section for the procedure to set the bowl float levels. RR
  25. That's why I bought two. RR
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