RedRider

For opening the bottles of 'Black Death'. RR

Yes, '99 and newer are compatible. Mine went out at about 80k miles although it didn't leave me stranded. One of the pinion bearings was going out and the additional noise made me know to change it out. Replaced it with a left over from a trike conversion. Going strong at 140k. I do, however, have a spare for when/if the current final drive goes out at 200k miles or so. RR

An update on the KLR. My son put a new battery in it, added some gas, and it fired right up. Shifted up and down through the gears, and the brakes stopped it like they should. Too good to be true. Next week's challenge - title and plates. Everything appears to be in order, just can't for the life of me figure out the catch as to why this was only $500. RR

Only solution Then: Then: Just to be sure. RR

If coolant is leaking into the oil, the oil will look like a chocolate milkshake. Very distinctive. RR

Look at the API Donut. You do not want an oil that says "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" in the lower ring. You want it to look like this: RR

It would be less expensive, and much less hassle, to install a replacement motor. RR

Check the sidestand switch. It may need a cleaning. RR

House of Honda / Yamaha should be able to get it next day. Part number is 90338-11152-00. I believe they are about $5 each. With the age of your bike, I suggest buying 4 and replacing them all. RR

It is no longer winter - oil threads are banned until November. RR

One recommendation I have, lightly coat the axle with anti-seize before putting it back together. Makes removing it much easier next time. Don't get it on the threads. RR

Different bike then. The one I was looking at was blonde. RR

Just to clarify Patmac's post, the slippage will not be the starter clutch, it will be the gear shifting clutch. Different animals. And it isn't the synthetic vs. the non-synthetic. It is the additives. Car oils have anti-friction additives that do not play well with wet clutches (Ventures have wet clutches). +1 on the RotellaT (no experience with the Castrol). Personally, I don't like how the clutch feels and the bike sounds with synthetic. Been running dino oil for 140k miles and are pretty happy. RR

Hey - did you buy this off Craigslist a couple of weeks ago? Is it a blonde version with the plastics removed? I called to buy this and it was just sold. Anyway, my estimate is that you have a starter clutch issue. Not rocket surgery to fix, but not 'oil change' easy either. Some others with more 1st generation experience will likely pop in here to offer better advice. However, I suspect this is what you are facing. Do a search for starter clutch in the 1st Gen Technical section. RR

He has been going through the boxes of stuff that came with the bike. Garmin Street Pilot 2720 (in perfect shape) with a mount already installed on the bike. 6 oil filters, 3 inner tubes, extra mirrors, a Wolfman tank bag. Unbelieveable!! RR

I have never had the dash buttons stick. Not sure what would cause that. Perhaps spray a little contact cleaner in there. As for the running light switch, it is normally a rubber boot next to the 12V outlet in the lower clutch side faring. It is a push button type switch. Do you have the auxiliary lights installed on your bike? RR

KLR engine won't produce more than about 25HP anyway. Might want to stick to the marine outboard. Anyway - the KLR Kaper was entirely successful! 2008 KLR650 with a 685 kit installed, doohickey done, full aluminum panniers, skid plate, heated grips, multiple windshields, motorcycle jack, boxes of extra parts. Looks in near perfect shape. Son reports even the tires and chain/sprockets look good. He signed the title which is in his name and has a matching VIN. $500. It is in my son's truck heading towards Phoenix. The seller was moving and needing to simplify his life by getting rid of stuff. The KLR was one of the stuff he needed to get rid of. Will have better pictures tomorrow. We are still trying to determine the catch. It is just too good to be true. RR

Didn't think of that --- Here is the text of the ad:

Saw this ad on ADVRider and couldn't believe it. It has to be too good to be true. 2008 KLR650 for $500. This is even better than Puc's Crud for $1000 - well, maybe not. I bought it and my son is driving up from Phoenix to ABQ to pick it up. Will know in a couple of hours how bad it is. Heck, the extras are worth the $500. If the bike is salvageable, it is just a bonus. We shall see. RR

There is on O-ring on the outside. It will come out, just a little stuck. RR

27mm is the correct size. RR

Lugnut, Which lights are you referring to? The 'stock' running lights are also the turn signals. Many Ventures have the auxiliary running light bars with PAR36 bulbs in them as a replacement for the stock light bar. If it is the aux light bar, the installer usually puts a button switch in the inner faring next to the 12V outlet (clutch side, down low). Make sure this is on. Hopefully, that is all this is so you don't need to split the 'gaining' again . RR

Have changed out the rear tire lots of times. Generally only remove the brake side pipe along with both saddle bags. Still using the original gasket on the OEM pipes. And yes, lift with adapter works. Now, depending on mileage and where you ride, you may find the bolt that clamps the muffler on is really rusted. I have replaced both sides with a SS fastener. Helps lots. RR

Mr. Bird, Give the RDL a thousand miles and you won't want to remove it to even change the battery. Going back to the Corbin will be like sitting on the edge of a board. Best seat evah!! Great looking bike. Welcome home. RR

I assume the HID headlights are run through a relay. Replace said relay with a 10 second delay relay and you are good to go. RR