saddlebum

BTW not to dispute anything posted here as they are all good comments. I just want to point out that it is not uncommon for these bikes to be a bit temperamental when you 1st attempt to start them up after sitting for a spell. I have many times taken the air cleaner off to find sticky barrels were I will wet them with seafoam or carb cleaner and then carefully reach down with a long screw and gently move them. the starting issue were it will only start on closed throttle and die when yo open it also will occur but fades as the bike warms up. Once I get it warm enough will run enough to get the bike moving I ride the bike staying in the higher RPMs 1st just riding around the block in 1st gear then adding gears as the bike starts run better. Finally after a good run the bike just seems to clear up and run normally firing up each and every time at the touch of the starter etc. I seem to go thorough this every other spring or so depending on how long the bike sits but then I do not go through a whole storage procedure when I park the bike for the winter. I just cover it and leave it sit outside under the cover until spring. sometimes I may add seafoam and sometimes I won't. the winters I don't seem to be the ones were I have to fuss more in the spring. This past winter I added 1/2 a can of seafoam to a 1/4 full tank of fuel and ran it until it started to smoke then shut her down. then I topped the fuel tank off with super gas from a Jerry can.. This spring other than smoking like heck for the 1st little while she fired right up no issues. Again just food for thought not a fix.

Thats the way the oem fuse blocks are mounted I mounted mine back much the same way on top of the battery with a slight modification to the strap some will screw them down on to the air cleaner cover. I just didnt want to have to fuss with the fuse block every time I wanted to remove the air cleaner cover.

Forget the the OEM fuse block replace it with ATM or ATC/ATO fuse block similar to the one in the link. They come in various configurations and number of fuses. ATM is the mini version of the ATO/ATC fuse all which are common automotive fuse https://www.amazon.com/PSEQT-Negative-Waterproof-Automotive-Standard/dp/B0821JSV79 An assortment of various versions of these fuse blocks are also commonly found an marine supply stores

The odometer is directly gear driven, by a small set of worm and spur gears on the speedometer input shaft just before the magnetic end, while the speedometer is magnetically driven countered by clock spring tension. So as per my previous description if the odometer is accurate but the needle is not than the fault lies within the balance between the force of magnetic drive and the tension of the clock spring. In which case the only and simplest fix is another speedometer head. Unless you have a whole lot of patience and tenacity and want to fiddle with the spring tension to try and get it right. BTW here is a little interesting point I noticed, regarding the difference in road speed between the speedometer and that indicated by GPS. When driving in Ontario, I have noticed the speedometer on my truck versus the GPS to be within 0 to 1 Km of each other. When driving in Nova Scotia with the same truck and GPS the difference is close to 4 km per hour. Something worth thinking about when comparing speedometer to GPS.

Sure this aint more your speed patch

Yeh but you make up for it the other 23 hours

That is a totally unfair statement This forum is known to be very open and friendly with opinions and opinions, and opinions, and opinions, and opinions, and opinions, and opinions, and opinions, and opinions,and opinions, Ok you may have a point there

What is the difference Don ? Just asking

or you can grab a 6" piece of 1-1/4 abs pipe and a 1-1/4 coupler and make your own no cost if you got it kicking around a couple bucks if you have to visit the hardware store (pvc would work too)

My 1st question would be does the bike have the proper size tire on it or does it have an undersized tire and rim. The smaller overall diameter of an undersized tire and rim will cause the speedo to indicate a faster speed than what the bike is going. In this case the odometer would be out as well indicating more miles added up than what is actually covered. On the other hand if the odometer is accurate but only the speedometer is off than the problem is probably in the head and you may have to replace the head. or as mentioned earlier rely on a gps. You could try getting into the head and see if you can repair or recalibrate it by adding tension to the spring in the head but that would be a real pain and lots of trial and error. The speedometer on that is as you are aware is cable driven directly from the from wheel. The cable then drives a shaft that has a rotating magnetic disk on the opposite end which spins inside a small metal bowl. This bowl is attached to one end of a small shaft. The speedo needle is attached to the other end. In the middle of this small shaft is a very small clock spring. As the magnetic disk spins inside the magnetic bowel the bowl begins to rotated against the force of the spring. The faster the disk spins the more force created to overpower the spring and the higher the needle climbs up scale. As the bike slows down so does the speed of the rotating disc allowing the spring to overpower the magnetic force and bring the needle back down. If the spring gets weaker or if it has been tampered with it changes the balance between clock spring and the rotating magnet. In other words the weaker the spring gets the higher above actual road speed the speedometer will read. You could try bending the tab to which the free end of the spring is attached to increase spring tension but this could be hours upon hours of frustrating trial and error. Answer try to find another cluster or speedo head.

I am not certain as to what all the differences are and if I am not mistaken those differences can vary from year to year and is mostly based on extras such as the class air ride system which on some standards only has front and rear shrader valves to manually adjust air ride and I believe that may not hold true for every model year as well. Also I think the std my not include the cb radio. Other than that I really am not aware of other differences. I have 1 86 and 2 89's all three are royales. I parted out an 88 std and it had no class system, no CB and no sound system other than that I saw no difference between it and my royales. Others on the site who actually own std's could probably tell you better than I can.

Hi @CALEDON these are really great bikes I have had my 89 since 2006 and I just love this bike. The engines on this are about as bullet proof as you can reasonably get and probably can probably claim some the of highest trouble free miles of any motorcycle out there, providing they are reasonably maintained. When I say reasonably I mean simply good old basic TLC. They do not need to be babied, and you do not have to go over every nut and bolt like some bikes. Mechanically they are very hardy machine and will stand up very well to less than ideal riding conditions like getting onto some off road tracks (not that you want to make a habit of it). I don't think there is a more comfortable bike out there for long hours on the road and the bike handles curves amazingly well for such a big bike. Small crawl speed tight turns take a little more practice to get the hang of then with some bikes but not impossible to learn. its just a matter of getting used to how you sit and balance the bike which can be a little different than other bikes with a lower center of gravity. But once your up over a couple KM/HR right up to beyond highway speed this bike handle beautifully and without that heavy front end feel you get with many other bikes specially at slow speeds. Acceleration is amazing and more than adequate for a none sport bike. And don't be afraid to feed the RPM's to it because this bike loves to rev out. As @cowpuc can attest as he has probably but as many if not more mile on these bikes as anyone For the most part you can expect lots of enjoyable miles on this bike. If you do end up purchasing this Bike I highly recommend you become a full member here as you will find more info expertise and well informed help here than anywhere including most dealerships. The membership here is full of down to earth friendly people who will go out of their way to help each other whenever possible.

Thats how I ggot out of ever having to cut the grass. I did such a bad job I was told never cut the grass again fron now on she will do it. I walked away with my head hanging in shame ------until I rounded the corner of the house whooppee!!! Not sure if this helps but at one time many years ago there was this thing called a picnic basket. I am sure there is still a few around to be had if you look. Could always give that a try. Just say'n

What Marcarl is probably saying is the terminals inside the connector are in bad condition resulting in poor connection. When a lot of currant is passed through it, it will heat up thus indicating the poor connection. Checking a connection like this with an ohmmeter is not always a reliable test because the ohmmeter draws very little currant and as a result may indicate an OK connection when in fact it is not ok because under a heavier load than that placed on it by an ohmmeter it can still fail. There are better ways for testing for a bad connection than using an ohmmeter in a case like this but because of the time and amount of set up involved your just as well off to either replace the connector or just cut it out and hard-wire it as Marcarl suggests. Keep in mind here that depending on the condition of the wire they can sometimes be difficult to solder properly since they need to be clean and free of oxidation for a good solder joint and use rosin core solder not acid flux. If soldering is not working out use un-insulated butt connectors with a good crimping tool and double wall heat shrink tubing with sealer.

I did post it because of the chorus but then when I listened to it there was a line in there about going separate ways which was not what I had in mind so I deleted it but I guess you got it any way because I did the @ thing. Anyway the intent was to get back to being peaceful friends and accepting our differences.

Apparently there's no cure for that either:confused24:

https://www.bike-urious.com/april-fools-2020-in-motorcycling/ Apparently an April fools announcement

Bummed out is an expression a lot of us are getting very familiar with. Unfortunately no one has a real handle on this covid thing. Caution right now is the only real defence . Whatever you do assuming your married or equivalent DO NOT use the phrase {{what to do with myself that week}} out loud or someone is bound to offer suggestions

Ok you do realize SD can be translated in many ways from the very nasty to the very complimentary. So depending on @Marcarls mood this could be wide open to translations of all sorts.

All these people getting rid of their bikes or converting to spyders. Is this an indication that we are becoming a vanishing breed or worse getting old.

I am all good with the play it by ear / wait & see strategy Does this skill come from years of stake outs not to be confused with steak outs the later being more of a retirement thing I would guess. Being in a tourist area may effect how this plays out as well and then for us Kanuckians (as cowpuc likes to refer to us) there is the cross border issue that may or may not play into it.

OLD HATS are hard to forget---of course your remembered. Have wondered were you vanished too though. Nice BBTW.

Hey it's all Patch's fault He be the one that steered this thread into the compression thingy. Just ask cowpuc

and we know who don't we @Flyinfool

Prayers sent