saddlebum

Its not uncommon for a bike to veer a tad when you let go of the handle bars it often much to do with balance both of the bike and by the rider. Also keep in mind the venture is top heavy making it more sensitive to balance changes. On a positive Note, if it is going to veer, better to the right than to the left. A few things to check is the preload on the steering head bearings, tire wear pattern and tire mounting. By tire mounting I mean is the bead properly set in the rim. Some tires have a ridge line on both sides just above the tire bead. Check to see if the spacing between the ridge line is even to the edge of the rim all the way around. If not or if you want to do anyway let the air out of the tire, break the bead down (don't remove tire from wheel ) and coat the the bead and rim lavishly with some type of tire rim slip or linseed soap. (Don't use household soap or detergents even though some say it is Ok, as they are too alkaline and not Rim friendly over the course of time ) re inflate the tire. TIP: make an alignment mark on the rim and tire so the tire goes back in the same spot and you should not have to re-balance the tire. This should allow the tire do properly seat itself when you re-inflate it. Often tire installers do not but enough lube on bead area and because of the dryness they do not seat properly. Avoid hard stops and starts for the first few miles to prevent tire from shifting around on the rim. I found whether on a motorcycle or on a commercial truck proper tire mounting can make a big difference. I have even seen tire hop in transports caused be improper mounting of tires and eliminated it by following the above procedures. On a final note, all the above is based on there not being any structural issues with the bike such as bent frame or forks.

Since most points have already been stated I will cut this short in my usual manner, Steering I found the gold wing heavy handed were as the 1st Gen Venture MK I & II you can almost steer by simply shifting your weight there is no heavy feel to the handle bars at all. I found shifting an issue on the gold wing was difficult due to what I would consider cramped foot room and even worse with the heel toe and floor board setup. The Venture can handle riding off road reasonably well for a big bike as I noted during a trip along what was nothing more than a cow path with sections washed out by run off. Even gunned it over a small jump when faced with a 45 deg 4 ft high mound ( landing was somewhat hard due to the weight ) and it handled it reasonably well all things considered. (not something you want to make a habit of though - jar's every bone in your body ). I certainly would not attempt any of this with a gold wing. I also found the 1st Gen far more comfortable. On the other hand if your doing very long trips you do have more access to parts and service although I can't say as that I have heard of too many break downs for either gold wing or Venture. A friend of mine switched from the Venture to a gold wing because of his short legs but stated ride wise he preferred the Venture.

Most rotors tend to develop a shoulder along the outside and inside edge, usually around 1/8" to 3/16" wide. This can keep the pad from fully seating against the main face and will reduce braking until it wears in. I have actually had it so bad that breaking was less than 50% until the pads were broken in How I deal with it is to grind a bevel along all four corners of the pads. Just enough for the pad to clear the raised shoulder and fully seat against the rotor. Initial pre-break-in braking is much better and actual break in time is reduced significantly. Keep in mind that rotors also have a minimum thickness specification. Also contrary to some beliefs never burn your brakes in with doing hard stops. All this does is overheat and glaze your pads and even the surface of your rotors, as indicated by blue spots or worse a mirror like finish. Just let them wear in through normal riding and breaking. The time frame difference is barely noticeable and you avoid unnecessary overheating of your pads. The only exception to this is racing pads and rotors as they are designed to function at extreme temperatures and some actually need to get good and hot first to perform to the best of their ability. Obviously not recommended for street use since street riding does not generate the same operating temperatures as racing does. In other words don't fall for the idea that if its good for the track it has to be better for the road. NOT always true. In actuality just the reverse is often more likely. You need to use the pads and rotors that are designed and matched to the riding conditions. Another consideration is if your pulling a trailer a lot you may want to give some thought to a higher temperature rated set of pads. Keep also in mind that pads which last longer also tend to introduce more wear on the rotor as well as reduce braking power until they warm or even heat up. I have even come across pads that where almost useless in the rain until they where warmed and dried up first through a few brake applications when you 1st hit the road.

oh I fully understand there buddy. And it's not that I don't appreciate it. But if I'm at risk at my age you have to be at Double the risk at your age. And I just couldn't expect you to take that kind of a chance on my behalf. Besides on long trips like that she's used to doing all the talking she might not be able to listen for 14 hours straight.

I will try my best. Today I worked extra hard because my wife is coming home from IL. its about a 14 hour drive and she normally likes to do it over two days but because of the currant situation she plans on trying to shoot straight through and stop as little as possible. She plans on leaving very ealy in the morning and hopes to get home while its still light.

Sorry Peggy I have been keeping myself so busy around the house now that I am stuck at home that by the time I think about settling down for the night its past midnight. Don't give up on me yet though I'll slow down eventually.

True enough I was thinking of the 1st Gen. I admit I am not familiar with the second Gen, as far as how they plumb the hydraulic system. That said basic bleeding principles, regardless of which method is used, still apply. I have no issue with conventional bleeding methods, I was simply describing the the basic procedure, behind the other two methods. Obviously one would have to adapt according to the particular system they are bleeding but the basic technique for each method still applies.

Glad things are looking up. Hope and pray he makes a full recovery. BTW if he does catch any big fish don't post any pics. My son and grandsons are already making me jealous.

Back feeding works great but in order to do it properly you need to 1st completely drain the system. 2nd you need to remove the caliper from its mounting and position it so the bleeder screw is at the lowest point and the line is at the highest point. Then you slowly pressure feed the brake fluid in through the bleeder screw until fluid reaches the master and at least half fills it. I say half because the last thing you want is brake fluid to overflow the reservoir and run all over the bike also why you back fill it slow because it gets up there faster than you think. To back bleed the front brake on the left side you do the same accept you open the extra bleeder screw found up by the steering head and put a clear line on it so when the fluid comes out it can be directed into a catch container. Once clear fluid comes out of that screw close it. Finally you will have to bleed the line from rear master to that bleeder screw. Open the screw and depress the brake pedal slowly until it bottoms out and then close the screw before you let the pedal back up. Continue until clear fluid comes out the screw and you should be good to go. And your right it is a pain in the butt but effective. My prefer method for brakes is to used a sealed 1 quart container that I can put under vacuum. (I use an old plastic alcohol injection bottle that I modified for the purpose. Old truckers would know the bottle I'm talking about because before they put air dryers on air brake systems in trucks these were used to inject alcohol into the air system to keep any moisture in the system from freezing in winter.) Anyway I run a line from the container to the bleeder screw and another from the container to a vacuum pump. I build max vacuum in the container about 28 inches vacuum. with the reservoir full I crack open the bleeder until clear fluid runs through the clear line. Be careful you do not suck the reservoir dry You may have to open and close the bleeder several times while topping up the reservoir. Also it is preferable to have the container higher than the master since air goes up. I hang mine on a string. This method works very quickly and leaves no mess. For the front brakes finish off by bleeding the master at the banjo fitting to make sure no air is trapped there.

Just for the record :backinmyday:I did remember the chat room tonight . At about midnight n:bang head:

Whyyy dont they come cheaper in threes.

well You Know I do appreciate your kind offer but as you well know also I is a pertee independent feller plus I would not want you at your age to over exert your self, So, I will take it on the chin and do my own snoozing cause that's just the kinda unselfish type feller I is.

Thanks but I'm good. Got a yard full of leaves :canada::canada::canada::canada:

Hey now wait a minute that comment was totally unfair ...............you only allowed for one snooze between tasks............what about the other three or four snoozes. As matter of fact there should be one snooze between each task. each snooze kicked off with a cold one. ...You did see the part about Marita being far far away i Highland IL didn't you. I mean thats almost St Louis just barely across the river. No telin for how long either since she is looking after her Dad. ......That was a lot of typing .....time for a cold one and a snooze. In Stumpy Nubs words at the end of his wood working videos >>>I deserve it. BTW other than the idiot shown at the start of this video its an interesting Vlog.

Me too came up from working in the basement all afternoon and evening sat down to a cup tea. I passed out and tea got cold. At 12:15AM my Airedale Rio woke me up to remind me it was time to feed the cats. Don't know how he does that without a watch, I'm not that good even with a watch. - - - - Wait for it....

Mmmm Ok thought about that long and hard and this part ""now I has to be careful and not say anything,,,,, nice"" has me confused :confused24:thought that part came natural to ya

See how I deliberately left that part out so you would be able to have some input. And here you always accuse me of not giving you a chance to have your say.

You are right about how important it is to be in the Garage but with Marita being 1400 KM (870 mi) away I no longer need to hide out there, at least for now.

I see glasses and binoculars on the table. Were my hugs that good that he now keeps a close watch on you?

Naw he just knows that every once in awhile he needs to score at least some good points with the powers to be.

Here is how I bleed the slave. 1st I do not pump the clutch lever. 2nd I open the bleeder screw slowly apply the clutch until it bottoms out then close the screw and wait a few minutes. 3rd I again open the bleeder screw only this time as I slowly apply the clutch then close it when it when the clutch lever bottoms out. I continue with step 3 until brake fluid comes out of bleeder screw. 4th I now slowly apply the clutch with bleeder screw closed, pause for a few seconds then open the bleeder screw and quickly close it again before the clutch lever totally bottoms out. I continue with step 4 until no more air comes out of bleeder screw. 5th with handle bar in straight ahead position so fitting at master is at its highest possible point in comparison to the reservoir, I apply the clutch lever slowly until it stops. I hold it for a few seconds then slowly open and then quickly close the fitting bolt. I continue with step 5 until it no longer spits out air around the banjo fitting. Make sure everything below the the clutch lever is covered and protected from over spray and toss a rag over the banjo fitting while you bleed it to avoid getting sprayed in the eyes. When doing the final part of the bleeding you do not need to look at the fitting so cover it with a rag because you can hear the difference between air coming out or pure fluid. Or if you prefer wear safety goggles.

The weight is most likely there as a vibration damper to keep the cover quiet and prevent it from developing fatigue cracks.

I have used oven cleaner for years and it has always worked. You have to be careful with lacquer thinner. It can damage some painted surfaces depending on the type of paint.

One of my neighbors who is a member of southern cruisers told me they were informed that group rides are cancelled because if the person in front sneezes the ones behind catch it. He said it did not concern him..... He is a ride captian. Moped must be in his Glory. On another note even though my wife is in Highland Illinois she still seems to be able to work the honey-do-list I have done some major cleanup in my basement wood working shop, around the yard and soon will be moving stuff around in the garage (I used to refer to it as, clean the garage but hey I may as well call it what it is)

Thank God there is a Sunday. At least that way ONE day a week Marcarl is nice ......Even to @Patch.