saddlebum

Started from the beginning ever since some one here posted it and am now into season 2 eps 65

Ready or not here I come

I have been watching Itchy Boots and I noticed Noraly uses MAPS ME most of the time. Wondering if anyone here has used it and if so what their opinion is.

Depending on the conversation and personal stamina it may continue untill 11:00 to midnight

I was there last night Mama with Rbig1, Flyinfool, and ecbaatz. I even asked about you because you were not there. and apparently you left just minutes before I signed on. you than appeared for a few minutes but went right to Idle so Jeff and figure you must have fell asleep at the key board. Flynfool and I finally departed about 11:30.

Lets hope you stay that way along with the rest of us.

With only that little amount of tooth contact, it is easy to see that it would not take much wear for either in the teeth, pawl or pivot pin to have a failure. Having been pinned under a car that fell on me and barely lucky to survive, just thinking about it gives me the jitters.

I wonder who the manufacturer is. They may have made those same stands for other brand names.

Gee @Patch your such an understanding guy

A point well made about the face mask valve. Even though I am well aware of why that valve is there, what you just said never even dawned on me . So, if it does not occur to those of us who understand the function of the valve, what does that say for those who have no idea.

@Flyinfool could use his snow machine to build a snow drift then you could just tunnel over unseen.

I used PIAA led fog lights also available as a flood or running light and it only requires a 2 amp fuse. http://www.piaa.com/piaa-lp270-led-white-wide-spread-fog-beam-kit-clone.aspx I tried a couple LED replacement bulbs for the headlight but so far have not been happy with them. I found although they were plenty bright directly in front of you, they did not project very far ahead and I found the road surface lacked contrast almost as though it was white washed so for now I have gone back to a PIAA 5000k H4 Super Plasma Gt-X Halogen Bulb. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/161-H4-Super-Plasma-Gt-X-Single-Halogen-Bulb.aspx IMHO if you want to go LED for your headlight it is best to get a complete LED assembly. At least then the reflector is designed to properly focus the the LED for proper beam pattern. Some suggestions http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?urlRequestType=Base&catalogId=10002&categoryId=13091&pageView=grid&urlLangId=-1&beginIndex=0&langId=-1&top_category=15554&parent_category_rn=13089&storeId=10001#facet:-7000000000000003359766968&productBeginIndex:0&orderBy:&pageView:grid&minPrice:&maxPrice:&pageSize:&

Not sure but I thought he posted recently he was off to see one of his grandchildren and I believe there is no internet so he would be off the grid for a bit. But as is often the case I could be wrong

I find it hard to understand how anyone can say its is overplayed or even as in some cases claim it is a Hoax. In a few short months the US alone has lost double the number of American lives than then American Lives lost during the entire Vietnam war not to mention the number of lives lost world wide. Here in Ontario just from mothers day visits the numbers have jumped over 400 a day again. So lets face it we know nothing conclusive about this disease other than it spreads like wild fire and unlike other infections that are only contagious while symptoms exist, this one is what is referred to as a sleeper in that it can be spread weeks before symptoms even appear. So if all it takes is wearing a mask to reduce the number of infections if only to slow it down to the point where it brings the numbers down to a more manageable level for front line workers then so be it. This past weekend we had overcrowding in some of the parks by people who just could not care less. In the mean time front line workers are risking there lives and their families lives to fight this thing. That was real slap in the face for these hard working people. Its not just about the individual anymore its about all those around you as well as your self. If we can show team support for athletic events than surely we can show team support for fighting a highly infectious disease.

83 has the module as well

Not sure what year your bike is But the 1st gen MK2 has what is called I believe a reserve lighting unit. Its a module that will throw your high beams on if your low beam fails. It could be stuck in high beam mode . You may also have a hi low relay the relay my be bussing because it is trying to switch but can't and may be defective or not geting proper signal voltage. Again depends on year of bike.

simple quick way without getting too fussy on a level surface pull your bike right up to a wall or garage door. make mark were the center of the beam is brightest on the door or if there is a definite shadow line at the top edge of were the light hits the door. Back the bike up 25 feet and adjust the beam so either the center point of the bright spot of the beam or the shadow line which ever you decided to use is 4 inches below your original mark. This is not the most precise method but is the simplest and close enough for all intents and purposes. BTW best done with 2 people one siting on the bike and one marking the wall but with a little ingenuity can be done by one person. If you really want o get fussy there is a method by which you draw a grid on the door etc but the rest of the procedure is pretty much the same as the quick method I just described.

I am glad we were able to help. I gotta say though, boy have you got patience!

Normally 5 to 10 inch lbs will not be an issue. if you are over torquing it to a worrisome point you will feel it as the bolt will begin to stretch or the threads in the housing will begin to to tear, normally noticed by a sudden reduction in turning effort. However as I said even being as much as 10 inch LBS over won't be an issue. I sometimes deliberately exceed manufactures torque by 10 in/lbs for one reason or another and have never had any ill effects by doing so. BTW most in/lb specs usually allow for a +/- 5 in/lb variance anyway.

If I am not mistaken which I often am any of the bikes that were repaired for this issue at a dealer are supposed to have an indicating mark of some sort stamped some where on the case. Somebody here on the site may know better. Like Puc I find skip shifting 2nd gear not to be an issue so for the most part I would just ignore. Were you may run into an issue is with the safety inspection depending on who is doing the inspection they may or may not overlook the second gear issue. You can try explaining to them that there are bike all over the continent running just fine without it but in the end it depends on the tech doing the inspection. Here are a couple links that may interest you: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?508-Second-Gear-Repair https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?133124-2nd-gear-issues-with-the-83-84-and-some-85-Ventures-Questions

Now your thinking

Theres always a way to open the truck if you try hard enough.

Not riding the bike because your working on the house is no excuse You always got to make hardware runs lots of which can be done using the bike. If you pick stuff up one item at a time you get to make more runs ...Just Say'n

Same Idea except I replaced the old fuse holder and put my block in the same place were the old one used to be.

These bikes do prefer to do their turns by leaning through counter steering rather than manhandling the handle bars which is one of the things I never liked about the goldwings. But once you get onto it and this includes counter balancing the bike in slow turns you will love it. With regards to fighting you in the bends and wanting to go straight I had the same issue and found the steering head bearings were adjusted to tight. you want them as free as possible but with zero bearing lash or play similar to setting up a trailer wheel bearing. If the bearings are dry or worn so that they are binding that can also give you a similar issue. I would start by resetting the bearings to proper bearing lash and if you still have an issue pull, clean and check the bearings. If they look fine repack them and re install them properly. I find the best way to set up the bearings is to follow manufacture spec using a torque wrench, If a torque wrench and/or special wrench is not available, then the next best method in my book, is follow the same procedure you would when setting up tapered wheel bearings such as those used on a trailer wheels. With the front wheel off the ground 1 - tighten bearing while turning handle bars left to right until some drag is felt on handle bars. 2 - back off the nut until loose. 3 - re-tighten until you just reach a point were there is zero lash 4 - back off the nut approx 1/8 of a turn (this can vary from bike to bike) this will leave a bit of lash 5 - tighten the lock nut this should eliminate any lash introduced by backing off the adjusting nut 6 - with the front wheel still off the ground grab the fork at the axle. push and pull, back and forth to feel for any free play (bearing lash) .001" to .005" which is barely noticeable is acceptable but zero lash with no binding is preferred. IF - there is too much lash back off the jam nut and just add a bit to the adjusting nut then tighten the jam nut. ALWAYS keep in mind that what ever you set the adjusting nut to the jam nut will add to it and this is why you do not want to remove all the lash with the adjusting nut alone or the bearing could end up too tight.