saddlebum

Ok so you say the wheel turns in neutral. When it turns does it feel relatively smooth with no odd noises. If so than I would say the final drive. drive shaft, u-joints and rest of parts in the parts breakdown Marcal posted are OK. With it in gear can you still turn the wheel with the clutch pulled in? from your description I am thinking you cannot, so my next move would be to check clutch operation. Start by making sure there is no air in the system. Then check to see if the master is actually functioning properly. It could be bypassing internally and not applying pressure to the slave. Check to see if you are loosing clutch fluid. The slave could be leaking internally and loosing fluid. Drain engine oil into a clean container. Does the oil look normal or is there metal in the oil? Remove the clutch cover so you can observe the clutch while actuating the clutch lever. you should see movement between the discs. If not then you will have to see why. Remove the Clutch. with the clutch removed and transmission in gear does the wheel now turn or is it still locked up. If still locked up you may have to pull engine and get into the transmission to see what is going on. Keep in mind this is all couch technique diagnostics If I had the bike in front of me I might take a different approach.

the rear brake is were I would start as well specially since it only locks when you pull the clutch in but will turn when you release the clutch and apply power. Generally if it locks up due to a drive line or transmission failure it stays locked up and whether the clutch is in or out would not make a difference.

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Cannot tell by pic which way oil seal was facing. The part in pic one is one of two pieces making up the water pump seal, the wide flange towards the pumps impeller. the second part of the W/P seal sits between the impeller and the flange of this part. The lip on the oil seal should be facing the engine and away from the water pump. This is to keep oil from leaking out through the weep hole.

The JIS japanese version of the philips screwdriver made by Vessel and available through Amazon is the best screw driver I found for the screws on these bikes the flute tapers and angles between the japanese (JIS) screws and the philips differ slightly and is why a normal philips screwvdriver will cam out so easily. The (JIS) even works better on the philips screws than the philps screw driver does. Thier grey handled impacta line is great for breaking loose tight screws without rounding them out. FROM AMAZON CANADA. https://www.amazon.ca/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=vessel+jis+screwdriver&qid=1624197256&sr=8-8 https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&ref=nb_sb_noss ------------------------------------------------------ FROM AMAZON USA. https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197497&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-Impacta-P2x100-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197633&sr=8-16

Is there a reward. I am not currantly working and could use the bounty money. Nothing personal @videoarizona

Location has an effect as well. In Ontario there is a 2 Km difference between my GPS and my speedometer. In Nova scotia they read identical.

He is talking about the bolt that holds the line to master cylinder. This type of through fitting is often reffered to as a banjo fitting and the bolt therefore referred to as a banjo bolt.

As long as it feels like it won't quit Take it for a good run You might be pleasantly surprised. start by circling the block a few times and if it is acceptable go for a good run. My bike acts up every spring and then clears up after a good run and then she is good for the rest of the season

Not entirely true depending on the quality of the plug it is better to plug and seal the hole than let water and debris enter the whole specially if salt is involved as the cords are more inclined to fail from rot or corrosion then having a few strands severed. As a person who involved in fleet maintenance and has installed several hundred plugs In 50 years of dealing with tires, I can honestly say it depends on the plug. I always use the Techcan plugs and have never had a failure despite not patching on the inside. The prep tool for these is not a reamer but actually spreads an opening in the cord for the plug. The supplier I got my tire supplies from demonstrated them by jamming them in the side wall of his steer tire (a definite no no but did prove his point. by the time he wore the tires out he had 250 plugs in it. I even have doubled up the plugs in large holes and they never had one fail running the tires out to the end of their usefull life. Now having said all that I would not use a plug or a patch alone on a motorcycle if possible. Experience has taught me it is always best to do both. if it is a straight in hole I would use a one piece plug patch. but if the hole is on an angle I would plug 1st then buff and patch the inside.

Its always a comfort knowing there is good rubber on the bike.

After all that work you did on the 1st gen now your gonna step down to a 2nd gen and you call that going one better. All kidding aside thats a nice looking scoot.

Home depot sells a carbon fiber pad that plumbers use to prevent heating stuff that does not want to be heated (except your fingers your on your own there). It has been a life saver for me on many occasions

I hate when that happens. I will check and see if I have one from an engine I stripped. Not sure if I salvaged that part or not as it was years ago but I shall look. If I do its yours for the cost of shipping.

I hate when that happens. I will check and see if I have one from an engine I stripped. Not sure if I salvaged that part or not as it was years ago but I shall look. If I do its yours for the cost of shipping.

Not without actually being in front or even better beside the bike so I can see what is actually going on.

This very true. I have had helmets were the buffeting varied from helmet to helmet. One was so severe that I had a sore neck and returned the Helmet the next day (fortunately it was one of those bike shops that would refund your helmet if not satisfied and not damaged or marked ) and I have helmets that resulted in no buffeting at all. All while riding with a cut down windshield.

Definitely a plug patch is the way to go but if the entry is too steep of an angle than plug 1st buff flat on the inside and then place the proper patch.

If they do repair it make sure the hole gets filled as well you do not want water and other debris getting in the hole.

sticking or improperly adjusted throttle cables and/or twist grip, idle adjust set to high, carb sync adjusters way out of adjustment, improperly set needles in the barrels, possible vacuum leak just to name a few that come to mind.

Have been down the same road numerous times. I am a firm believer in using a light coating of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray. I spray a light coating on both the gasket and gasket surface and allow to dry until it is still just tacky. If gasket thickness is not important then I just use a product called THE RIGHT STUFF instead of a gasket ( far superior to silicone). In many cases it is more reliable than a gasket such as some of the ford valve cover gaskets.

Mmmmm That used to be our standard repair technique when drivers brought their trailers into the shop with light faults and they had to get going. we used a tad more force behind our strikes though.

@UthredThat looks OEM. When you install the barrel the tab on the diaphragm should line up with the locating spot on the carb housing and the drain hole in the barrel should be at the six o'clock position. If required rotate the diaphragm on the barrel until alll lines up properly. The spring goes into the barrel and then the cover goes on. it should not be difficult. If need be get a small can of of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray (most auto parts sources carry it and is non-hardening and easily removable if needed ) and carefully spray a thin coat in the groove on the housing. Let it get tacky then set the diaphragm in place insert the spring into the barrel and then the cover.

After you pull the nail gently probe the hole to see how deep it goes and try to see if you can feel or maybe see any exposed cord material. if you feel fully confident that the tire has not been compromised in any way fill the hole with some vulcanizing compound to seal it from providing further entry of any foreign material. If you have any doubt as to the integrity of the tire play it safe and replace it.

@UthredI suggest you post a picture of the diaphram and the barrel as the OEM one does not have a slotted grove as per say. It uses two white nylon looking rings and a stainless lipped sleeve to hold them in place. The OEM diaphragm sits between the two white rings. There is an aftermarket diaphragm which eliminates the two white rings by cutting them out and sits in the resulting groove between the lip of the stainless sleeve and the body of the plastic barrel. These aftermarket diaphragms have a thick bead around the center hole and go on similar to mounting a tubeless tire on a rim. If you try to use the OEM type diaphram without the white rings it will not stay in place.