Prairiehammer

Jeff? Are you by any chance related to Bill Yeske? He has recently had issues of a medical/dental nature. Must be something in the air north of the Cheddar Curtain. heh. Be careful and only do what the NURSES say to do (ignore the Doctors).

You are probably right, the Second Gen may fit without modification. Usually, in the Yamaha parts system, the -10 v. -00 is a minor color, appearance, or 'improvement' that does not prevent interchangeability. What that -10 signifies is beyond my knowledge.

You would think so, wouldn't you? But the primary gear driven assy (clutch basket) seems not to be the same. Nor the clutch boss. SOME parts are interchangeable, but apparently not the clutch as an assembly.

Those are off a blue 1990, that is true, BUT that is a repaint in blue and not the stock blue. To the OP, if you are going to repaint the lid, there are several; remember, anything from 1986 onward is the same, except for color, heh! And also remember: the 1989 blue (dull blue cocktail) is same as the 1990 blue. There are a couple 1989 blue saddlebags (complete) on eBay, now.

Don, the Motocampers site was running an old version of VBulletin too, and like you there were problems occurring with the administration of the site. In August of this year the site software was updated to VBulletin v.4.2.2. There was an entirely different look and the loss of many customizations and 'hacks' did not move to the new software, just as you have mentioned would happen here when you upgrade. There was a few grumbles about the site changes (there are a bunch of old guys there, too) but the Admins were able to tweak the site incrementally for a week or so without any major downtime. So, as others have said, start making plans to upgrade so there can be a smooth transition. It sounds like you were able to dodge the bullet last night/this morning. Starting over would have been catastrophic. Thanks for your work and passion toward this site.

It is called a clevis. The three 'slots' are for adjusting draft on a drawn implement, possibly a potato plow. Some photos of it and others.

It is to the rear of number 1 cylinder (left rear). In your case, you have an add on chrome cover that is covering the rubber flap that in turn covers the clutch slave bleeder.

No action shots of me and '91, but here are a few of me and the '90. And a couple of OLD pics of me and the Honda.

I replaced my 1983 stock horns with horns from AutoZone in 2002. I used a high tone universal (FIAMM # BH101HC, AutoZone # 006073) and a low tone "Freeway Blaster" (FIAMM # BH103FBL, AutoZone # 345230) 132db! I initially hooked them up using the stock wiring and connectors, as well as the stock brackets. The high tone universal would sound off, but the Freeway Blaster would just "thunk". After determining that the Blaster was in fact good (by connecting straight to battery with jumpers), I determined that the setup was too much for the stock wiring and switch. Not wishing to burn up the switch (very expensive and difficult to replace); I wired in a horn relay and new 14ga wire to power the horns. As for the "trigger", I simply plugged in the stock horn connectors to the relay. A new 14ga wire from the battery to the relay provides the juice to fire the horns. The provided short wire was used to ground the horns. I was even able to retain the chrome covers from the stock horns and use them to cover the back side of the new horns. Now, the bike sounds just like my Chevy Silverado! My 1990 had RIVCO air horns, but I was not able to salvage them. While the RIVCO horns were fairly loud, the tone to my ear was rather high pitched. I prefer the sound of the FIAMMs. I'm going to replace the stock 'beep-beep' horns that are on the 1991 with the FIAMM.

Small one on the right in your picture. Don't lose the copper washer in the bolt hole at six o'clock. And you'd be wise to get a middle gear cover (that's the cover on the right) gasket before you begin.

Yes, all the copper 'crush washers' on the Venture can be reused (if not deformed too much) by annealing the copper washer. To anneal the washer: heat the washer to cherry red and then quench in water. If not deformed the washers will be reusable. Copper becomes 'work hardened' and may not seal as when new. Annealing returns the copper to a malleable state that will conform to the the case and fastener.

Yep! I've had one in my 1983 for many years. When dirty, wash with detergent and then re-oil. In fact there is one on eBay right now. The listing INCORRECTLY describes it as a "K&N" but it is a "UNI" that some one put into a K&N box. Prolly a take-off, and the seller knows no better. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-K-N-Air-Filter-YA-1283-1983-1993-YamahaXVT12T-Venture-Royale-/301351275757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4629ef8ced BTW: you can buy a brand new UNI filter for the price the other is asking for theirs, if so inclined. http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-FILTER-NU-2267-AIR-FILTER-ELEMENT-1983-1993-YAMAHA-XVZ1200-XVZ1300-/271611496667?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3d4e88db&vxp=mtr

Wow! NIP! OK, Jack. That IS a "Big Bike Parts" trunk lighted reflector that we have been talking about. "Show Chrome" was/is the brand that Big Bike Parts owns. Look closely, and you will see that, in fact, the amber lens and the red lens are separate pieces. Camos original post was pointing toward those EXACT SAME replacement lenses for your bling. Wanna sell that Show Chrome/Big Bike Parts Venture Trunk Light? Huh? Do Ya!?

I can't say how the "Big Bike Bandits" reflector/lighted trunk thingie is constructed. (Note that he and I are talking about the aftermarket trunk lighted reflector by Big Bike Parts). I had a Big Bike Parts brand lighted trunk reflector on my 1990. The Big Bike Parts lighted reflector consisted of three lenses; one long red lighted reflector lens in the middle and an amber lighted reflector for the turn signals on each end.

Yes, Jack, you are confused. As Camos pointed out in his post, he was posting links to Big Bike Parts and the replacement lenses for the aftermarket lighted trunk 'reflector' by (wait for it...) Big Bike Parts! Not OEM trunk reflector.

Since my Firefly antenna does not fold, I have no issue with interference. You can have the longer bolts and spacers, Jack. Thanks, Les.

Well written letter. I hope it helps. BTW: what is your FIRST language? Serbian?

Full tank of treated fuel. Turn the petcock to OFF and run the engine till it dies from lack of fuel. Drain the carb bowls after running. (The carb bowls will not be empty even after running until it dies). Prevent critters and insects from 'hibernating' in the exhaust AND air box by blocking entrances to mufflers and airbox. Scatter dryer sheets or mothballs around the interior of the bike to deter rodents from nesting and gnawing on wires. Remove battery, but still plan to have a new replacement on hand for the 'christening' upon his return. And extend my thanks for his service. ( I don't suppose you or he can say where his current deployment is?) Stay safe SIL.

The arm on my 1991 is about 7½" overall, like yours. Here is a pic of mine as related to the aftermarket trunk light bar. I think the one you have will work. PM sent. Thanks.

Thanks, Les. How much for one? It is my understanding that the 'left' and the 'right' are identical, correct? I have but one mounting boss on my 1991, but I just bought a 1987 trunk mount with bosses on each side. I thought I would swap the 1991 trunk mount with the 1987 trunk mount, thus having both bosses for the antenna arms. I am curious, though; I have a trunk lighted rail on my 1991 and the stock antenna arm is fine. There is no interference between the rail and the antenna on mine. Maybe there is a difference between the different aftermarket trunk light rails?

I am attempting a 'Marshall Mod' on my 1991. I am in need of the antenna mount (the chrome 'arm') that the antenna attaches to. The attachment bolts would be nice as well. Just to be clear: the MKI antenna mount will not work; it is not long enough. I have a MKI antenna mounting arm if anyone wants to swap. Anyone? Thanks for your consideration.

You will require an 18mm thin wall, deep socket. If you get an 18mm thin wall spark plug socket, it will probably have a hex on the end. Get a ratching box end wrench to fit the socket's hex and you will turn the job into a five minute chore. It can take a very long time to change the spark plugs on the Venture if you don't have the proper tools. Make sure to clean out the spark plug 'well' in the head before attempting to remove the plugs. Assorted debris (coins!, nuts, pebbles) have been discovered sitting in the spark plug wells. Sometimes this debris and foreign materials prevent even the correct socket from engaging the spark plug. Other times that debris will fall into the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed.

The TCI is located under the battery, in front of the air box. BUT, you do not need to disconnect the TCI in order to check compression. You should ground the removed spark plugs to the engine block, though, to prevent possible damage to the TCI. Proper compression check on the Venture requires the throttle plates/butterflies to be wide open when cranking and checking compression. Most Ventures are showing 125-170 psi when the compression is checked, however the absolute pressure is not as important as all four cylinders exhibiting similar pressures.

Yes the fuel pump makes a dull clicking noise for about five seconds when the ignition is switched on IF the float bowls are in need of fuel. Sometimes, if the float bowls are full, the fuel pump may not run. The fuel pump only pumps when the float valve is open. Two things of note in your description of the problem: the fuel pump should not run for more than five seconds or so if the engine is not firing. That is a safety feature built into the fuel pump electrical system to prevent fuel spewing in the event of a mishap. Twenty seconds of pumping indicates an issue with that safety device. Secondly, if one or more of your float valves are stuck open, the fuel pump will fill the float bowls to the point of overflow. The overflow lines (one for each carb) terminate above the swingarm pivot point.

Here is a pic of a stock 1987 trunk mount showing the small brackets to which the antennae arm is mounted. All the 1986 and 1987 Ventures (Standard and Royale) came with this trunk mount with two antennae arm mounting points incorporated into the trunk mount. The Standard would not have the antennae arm installed onto either of those two brackets, but would have the same trunk mount as the Royale. One could purchase the antennae arm and attach it to the trunk mount and then install an antennae on the arm. Some also just added a long bar to the trunk mount rack, extending beyond the trunk on each side. They would then mount an antennae to each end of this added bar. One antennae for CB and one antennae for AM/FM radio. When two separate antennae are utilized on the First Gen it is called a Marshall Mod. The stock 'matching box' aka splitter is eliminated when the Marshall Mod is performed. Yamaha dropped the left antennae arm mounting point on 1988 and later trunk mounts. The antennae mounting arm is also pictured below.