Prairiehammer

When you get this new thing all lined out, the 'vanity' in me requests a link to "my threads" (those started by moi) and a link to "my replies" (a link to those threads in which I have replied). Yeah, yeah, I know we all have priorities. Thank you.

So 'Steamer' is Bob?! Who knew! I am going to try and post the pics you posted on Facebook here. With the new forum look and features, I am not sure it will work. Well, I'll be... It certainly is different, but it got done.

I HATE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My condolences, Scott.

That item is not an 'air compressor'. It is the cruise control vacuum pump. Someone should set Pinwall straight.

The VIN will indicate the model and the intended market for importation. For 1986: 1NL=US49 ROYALE 1UN=CALI ROYALE 1UM=CDN ROYALE 1VE=CDN STD

The 'SEEK' button is on the handlebar remote control. And on the passenger remote audio control.

The screws holding the TCI are #3 JIS, as Neil says, however, I removed those screws utilizing a #3 Phillips bit, one inch long screwdriver insert bit; inserted into a ¼" socket attached to a stubby handled ratchet, worked well. Tape the #3 (NOT the common #2) screwdriver bit onto the ¼" socket to keep the bit from falling out. It helps to spray the screws with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them.

Does the 'SET' light flash? If the 'SET' light flashes every two seconds, the vacuum pump or related parts are faulty. If the 'SET' light flashes three times every two seconds, the control unit or its connectors is faulty. Check the 'IGNITION' fuse for proper function and continuity.

The radio should in fact tune to any station. And on a well functioning tuner, it will, especially when in 'SEEK' mode. Although it doesn't sound like this is your problem, if the antenna lead is corroded at the antenna base, or the matching box, or at the tuner, the tuner may not be finding a strong enough signal to lock onto a station. The problem seems to be, in your case, moisture or debris or corrosion in the station select buttons or probably in the multi-pin connector beneath the removable audio unit. Check all the connector pins (male AND female) for corrosion and also for accurate engagement.

To clarify: you may use a an '84 through '89 TCI, 1990-1993 will not work.

Jeff? Are you by any chance related to Bill Yeske? He has recently had issues of a medical/dental nature. Must be something in the air north of the Cheddar Curtain. heh. Be careful and only do what the NURSES say to do (ignore the Doctors).

You are probably right, the Second Gen may fit without modification. Usually, in the Yamaha parts system, the -10 v. -00 is a minor color, appearance, or 'improvement' that does not prevent interchangeability. What that -10 signifies is beyond my knowledge.

You would think so, wouldn't you? But the primary gear driven assy (clutch basket) seems not to be the same. Nor the clutch boss. SOME parts are interchangeable, but apparently not the clutch as an assembly.

Those are off a blue 1990, that is true, BUT that is a repaint in blue and not the stock blue. To the OP, if you are going to repaint the lid, there are several; remember, anything from 1986 onward is the same, except for color, heh! And also remember: the 1989 blue (dull blue cocktail) is same as the 1990 blue. There are a couple 1989 blue saddlebags (complete) on eBay, now.

Don, the Motocampers site was running an old version of VBulletin too, and like you there were problems occurring with the administration of the site. In August of this year the site software was updated to VBulletin v.4.2.2. There was an entirely different look and the loss of many customizations and 'hacks' did not move to the new software, just as you have mentioned would happen here when you upgrade. There was a few grumbles about the site changes (there are a bunch of old guys there, too) but the Admins were able to tweak the site incrementally for a week or so without any major downtime. So, as others have said, start making plans to upgrade so there can be a smooth transition. It sounds like you were able to dodge the bullet last night/this morning. Starting over would have been catastrophic. Thanks for your work and passion toward this site.

It is called a clevis. The three 'slots' are for adjusting draft on a drawn implement, possibly a potato plow. Some photos of it and others.

It is to the rear of number 1 cylinder (left rear). In your case, you have an add on chrome cover that is covering the rubber flap that in turn covers the clutch slave bleeder.

No action shots of me and '91, but here are a few of me and the '90. And a couple of OLD pics of me and the Honda.

I replaced my 1983 stock horns with horns from AutoZone in 2002. I used a high tone universal (FIAMM # BH101HC, AutoZone # 006073) and a low tone "Freeway Blaster" (FIAMM # BH103FBL, AutoZone # 345230) 132db! I initially hooked them up using the stock wiring and connectors, as well as the stock brackets. The high tone universal would sound off, but the Freeway Blaster would just "thunk". After determining that the Blaster was in fact good (by connecting straight to battery with jumpers), I determined that the setup was too much for the stock wiring and switch. Not wishing to burn up the switch (very expensive and difficult to replace); I wired in a horn relay and new 14ga wire to power the horns. As for the "trigger", I simply plugged in the stock horn connectors to the relay. A new 14ga wire from the battery to the relay provides the juice to fire the horns. The provided short wire was used to ground the horns. I was even able to retain the chrome covers from the stock horns and use them to cover the back side of the new horns. Now, the bike sounds just like my Chevy Silverado! My 1990 had RIVCO air horns, but I was not able to salvage them. While the RIVCO horns were fairly loud, the tone to my ear was rather high pitched. I prefer the sound of the FIAMMs. I'm going to replace the stock 'beep-beep' horns that are on the 1991 with the FIAMM.

Small one on the right in your picture. Don't lose the copper washer in the bolt hole at six o'clock. And you'd be wise to get a middle gear cover (that's the cover on the right) gasket before you begin.

Yes, all the copper 'crush washers' on the Venture can be reused (if not deformed too much) by annealing the copper washer. To anneal the washer: heat the washer to cherry red and then quench in water. If not deformed the washers will be reusable. Copper becomes 'work hardened' and may not seal as when new. Annealing returns the copper to a malleable state that will conform to the the case and fastener.

Yep! I've had one in my 1983 for many years. When dirty, wash with detergent and then re-oil. In fact there is one on eBay right now. The listing INCORRECTLY describes it as a "K&N" but it is a "UNI" that some one put into a K&N box. Prolly a take-off, and the seller knows no better. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-K-N-Air-Filter-YA-1283-1983-1993-YamahaXVT12T-Venture-Royale-/301351275757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4629ef8ced BTW: you can buy a brand new UNI filter for the price the other is asking for theirs, if so inclined. http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-FILTER-NU-2267-AIR-FILTER-ELEMENT-1983-1993-YAMAHA-XVZ1200-XVZ1300-/271611496667?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3d4e88db&vxp=mtr

Wow! NIP! OK, Jack. That IS a "Big Bike Parts" trunk lighted reflector that we have been talking about. "Show Chrome" was/is the brand that Big Bike Parts owns. Look closely, and you will see that, in fact, the amber lens and the red lens are separate pieces. Camos original post was pointing toward those EXACT SAME replacement lenses for your bling. Wanna sell that Show Chrome/Big Bike Parts Venture Trunk Light? Huh? Do Ya!?

I can't say how the "Big Bike Bandits" reflector/lighted trunk thingie is constructed. (Note that he and I are talking about the aftermarket trunk lighted reflector by Big Bike Parts). I had a Big Bike Parts brand lighted trunk reflector on my 1990. The Big Bike Parts lighted reflector consisted of three lenses; one long red lighted reflector lens in the middle and an amber lighted reflector for the turn signals on each end.