Prairiehammer

Another way to close the attachment is to depress the 'Esc' key.

Indeed his name is a link to his profile, but the name is not highlighted as most links are. Only after you mentioned it did I find that the name was a link, but I had to hover the cursor over the un-highlighted name to discover that it was a link. This is while using the gray skin.

Yes, I have contacted Motorvation three times, once via email (no response) and twice by telephone. I spoke with 'Gary' both times and he said he would send me information. I waited for more than two weeks without result. I followed up with another fonecon with Gary. That last conversation was more than a week ago and I have yet to receive any information about availability or pricing. Do you have another, different contact person, that I may try to get the information? Thank you, Les.

Don, is it possible to get the "Google" search of the site back?

shot of the right hand lower:

The jet block gasket (22U-14199-00-00)is still available at boats.net as is the enrichener gasket (22U-14536-00-00). AFAIK, these two are the only 'gaskets' required. The float bowl 'gasket' is a rubber O-ring profile (although irregularly shaped) and it is available at boats.net (22V-14147-00-00). Two other important items are the two rubber plugs that fit into the jet block, (22V-14968-00-00 and 22U-14968-00-00 CAP). These two rubber plugs (caps) tend to shrink while constantly immersed in ethanol laced gasoline. If those plugs don't fit well, numerous issues in carb performance are manifested. As for the jets, IMHO, unless the jets are damaged or irreparably plugged, there is no need to change them.

Most have found the the spacer is not needed, in fact the 'hollowed out cap' offers just about perfectly the recommended preload. I would open it back up, remove the PVC spacer and install the 'hollowed out cap'.

There is no need for the 6mm adapters on ANY (1983-2013) XVZ engine. The 'spigots' on the intake manifold receive the manometer hose without need for adaptation. The adapters are for most other Yamaha engines that have a threaded plug that is removed and the adapters are screwed into the 'manifold' to adapt the threaded hole to the hose of the manometer.

The MKII has a 14mm front master cylinder cylinder bore. The need to change this is debatable. Some say you must, some say to leave it.

I am not Neil, but I played him on TV once. Five-six hundred rpm is very slow. Try adjusting the idle speed to an indicated 1000 rpm. The Ventures (because of the CV carbs) are very finicky about a disrupted air intake. Attempting to run the engine while the airbox and filter are removed can be frustrating. Increase the idle speed and properly reinstall the air box with filter and warm the engine. See what the result is. The fact that the bike WILL idle without the 'choke' enrichener applied is good news. Most Ventures with dirty pilot circuits will not idle without the enrichener.

I recently obtained a circa 1990 Motorvation cargo trailer (thanks Rick Haywood). The suspension requires replacement (Broken torsion arm). The original suspension is a UCF Flexiride FR425 torsion suspension. The manufacturer (UCF America) of Flexiride torsion suspensions will not deal direct with the consumer. One of their authorized distributors (Southwest Wheel) offers the FR425, but are wanting $300± for a pair of the half axles. I am very hesitant to drop that much dinero when there other comparable torsion axles available for half the price. But, the other cheaper axles are not a direct bolt-on (that point is important, since this particular Motorvation has no external frame. The 'frame' consists of a steel plate imbedded in the fiberglass body and drilled for the FR425 bolt pattern.) Also, the original Motorvation used 425# torsion axles vs. the common 500# torsion axles offered. And the FR425 has an adjustable arm. This allows the owner to adjust the ride height and start angle for the suspension. It appears all the 500# axles have a fixed start angle with the resultant very high ride height. So, my question to others: anyone know where to obtain new or good used Flexiride FR425 torsion half axles? Thanks.

On the right side under the posters information is a highlighted ˆ which when clicked shows the thanks received, thanks given. That's cool. But a minor error? There is also a listing of 'dislikes' received and 'dislikes' given. Should that list reflect 'likes' and not 'dislikes'? There is no 'dislike' button.

Apparently only one spacer was a common mistake by Sonic back a few years ago. Still is, I see. Here is thread about changing to Sonics. Scroll down to the last two thread posts where the lack of supplied spacers was talked about and the remedy. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?55285-Beefier-springs-fork-oil-change-and-steering-head-lubed!&highlight=sonic

Looks like Don and Chris have toned down the red a bit. A bit more subtle. I think I am going to try it for awhile. While the blue is easier on my eyes, it is kinda boring.

Any 7mm solid core spark plug wire will work, it doesn't have to be 'high performance'. To avoid potential damage to the electronic ignition from EMI, you must use resistor spark plug caps with solid core wire. You should also retain the corrugated wire 'loom' around the spark plug wire. It is necessary to prevent spark leakage. But, before going to the minor expense and moderate trouble to replace the OEM wires, first try simply cutting ¼" off the OEM wires at each end. This action will remove any corroded conductor that may be at the ends. Some have found making an 'X' on the newly cut wire end surface assists with inserting the wire end onto the sharp prong that is in the caps and the ignition coil wire socket. If you MUST replace the spark plug wires, here is a how to: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81742-Spark-Plug-Wire-Replacement-MK2&highlight=spark+plug+wires

The pickup coils are in the stator cover, the larger cover on the LEFT side of the bike. The pickup coils look like this: You apparently removed the clutch cover.

From an '07

In tax happy Illinois, the cheapest I have seen is $2.87.9.

If you retain the stock linked brakes (front brake lever actuates the right front caliper, and the rear brake pedal actuates the rear caliper and the left front caliper), it is not recommended to 'disconnect' the proportioning valve. If you delink the integrated brakes, then yes, the proportioning valve is 'disconnected', but most leave the proportioning valve body bolted to the rear master cylinder and just remove the internal parts of the proportioning valve.

The pick-up coils are located in the stator cover, where they pickup pulses from the rotating rotor. Those signals are sent to the TCI. The four coils that are located under the battery (and over the TCI) are ignition coils.

OK. Thanks. I thought my computer was acting up.

The red icons are obscured, but not the blue icons. And thanks ChrisM. I am sure Freebird would not have been able to do it without you.

Yeah, me too. When I try to use that link, Don, I get a 'no permission' message.

Scroll all the way to the bottom left of the page and select "vB4 default style" for a close approximation of the old look (blue).