Prairiehammer

Ray posted on VentureRider facebook page that Alex (EasternRider) was helping him.

The plug that you are going to have to replace is called a "Welch" plug. Commonly used on all carburetors. Go to an auto supply store or a small engine shop or parts supplier with the diameter of the open hole and start matching up with their stock. Good luck.

I presume you have checked with the members from Nova Scotia? Jay (jaymacdoo) lives in Antigonish. He doesn't ride a First Gen, but I'll bet some friendly assistance could still be administered.

If you are gonna pull the "silver" plug, drill a hole into it and screw a sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and yank it out. As for the "staking", it is sometimes not apparent and maybe it wasn't done on yours at all. "Staking" is usually just a dimple made by a prick punch or similar to deform the carb body enough to prevent the plug from falling out.

It's a bit late now, but most don't bother to replace the float valve seat. However, since you've pushed it down into the carb body, it will have to be replaced or at least pushed out to where it was originally. The seat has an O-ring and a screen at the fuel inlet end. The brass/aluminum cover plug on top is sometimes "staked" in four places with a punch. To get the plug out, use a small (~1/8 or 3/32") drill to drill a SHALLOW hole just deep enough to remove the staking/deformation at each of the four locations, but not all the way through the plug. It will come out easily, and the seat can be removed. You can re-use this plug by staking it with a punch in different locations when you re-install it. Just don't drill all the way through it. Alternately, drill a small hole in the center of the plug and after inserting a sheet metal screw pull on the screw to remove. But you better have a replacement plug or know a machinist to turn you another replacement. Also there is a strainer screen in there. You probably have deformed it by knocking the seat up against the plug. It looks like you have knocked the seat pretty good and have chipped the brass, so it will more than likely need replacement now, too. If you don't use a replacement screen, scrub the old one or soak it in an oxalic acid solution (the screen not the carb body) and clean it up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69927 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75834

Riding motorcycles or golfing or fishing in a thunderstorm...makes no difference if you stand under a tree. Don't seek shelter under a tree in a thunderstorm.

You might want to adjust your directions...HA! Also, a much nicer ride is to take US52 from I-39 in Mendota. Take US52 to Savannah.

True, that has been called a 1983½, however, the VIN would have either 47R (for a Standard) or 47T (for a Royale) instead of 26H (Standard) or 31M (Royale) in the first part of the VIN. For example: a 1983½ Royale would be 47T00xDAxxxxxx.

For you, Brian: FRZMAN

Les, Why did you relocate the battery? And what model Honda did the COPs come off?

Just needs re-soldered?

Chuck, do you still have the lowers on? Some have removed the lowers and encounter some similar symptoms. Just a thought.

My drain plug crush washer has been AWOL since I bought the bike. I didn't even know there was supposed to be a crush washer on the drain plug until recently. But it has never leaked in 15000 miles.

I know, I know, he's long gone, but has everyone forgotten Lorne Greene? You know, Bonanza! And don't forget: Pamela Anderson. Talk about the Great White...um! Or Raymond Burr. "Perry Mason". John Candy. I can't believe I just mentioned Pamela Anderson and Raymond Burr in the same post.

The following is courtesy of Neil McRobbie: The backrest mount over stresses the lid on the 1st gen....I installed a reinforcement plate that Rick Butler (Tri Star Industries) sold years ago. It’s sandwiched between the backrest and the front of the trunk, and screwed to the aluminum trim at the bottom of the lid, to stiffen the front of the trunk. You still would want to fix the plastic and then consider installing a plate. First pic shows installed plate...screws visible into aluminum trim. Second pic is a spare plate I had laid inside the trunk lid to show area covered.....on the plate...top holes are for Royale vanity mirror (mine is a standard, not used), middle holes are for the backrest studs and lower row is for the 4 screws for the trim. There’s a slight bend to the plate to fit tight to the trim and the trunk front face. This also bridges the very common broken weld on the trim center joint.

Here is an article Rick Butler wrote for the Venture Touring Society's monthly magazine Venture Road: When I first heard of trunks cracking behind the rider's backrest (probably sometime in 1988), my first thought was it was probably caused by the weight of larger riders. Now don't get offended girls, because I discovered I was wrong when I disassembled my '86 Royale getting it ready to paint (after a couple of years and 30,000 miles). I was appalled as my trunk was cracked up pretty good also. Now my wife Linda only weighs 100 lbs, so I knew it wasn't caused from abuse. I started to really study the cracks and what appeared to cause the problem. My first observation was that the cracks were covered up by the mirror, so I never would have known I had a problem until it was probably too late. Nina, I noted that the butt welds of the aluminum trim were cracked on both the top and bottom of the trunk. This caused a misalignment of the sealing points and popping sound when the trunk was closed. When I observed how the backrest was mounted to the trunk, I found a 1" by 6" mounting point with 2 studs from the backrest and the same size strap on the opposite side where the nuts were placed, also under the mirror. I immediately realized this was not a large enough mounting surface to support the pressure received from this point that is located right at the lower lumbar of the rider's back. It allowed gradual flexing which caused the crack in the weld that joined the ends of the aluminum trim. Once this weld broke, it allowed more flexing to occur which let the plastic crack and spread further. I realized what was needed was a reinforcement plate to cover this mounting point, large enough to stop any possible flexing and one that should be located on the outside of the trunk. A key factor was that this plate should extend coverage over the aluminum trim and it would be best to attach to it to provide the maximum strength possible. Just placing a fiberglass patch on each side would be short- lived and it would end up cracking again. I ended up at my favorite hardware store trying to decide on the material to use and ended up with an aluminum kick plate which I cut to 4" X 8" and bent it to fit the contour of the trunk surface. The plate wasn't as heavy as I wanted, but I figured it would do as it wouldn't rust and wouldn't need painting. To attach it to the aluminum trim, I drilled halfway through the rail and into the slot that contained the rubber seal. Four short sheet metal screws worked perfectly and, when finished, resulted in a solid area that resisted any possible flexing. Once I installed this plate and mounted the backrest, I left it undisturbed for over a year and another 23,000 miles (mostly with my trusted passenger). It was unfortunate that I had to repaint the bike, but it gave me a chance to observe how the plate had performed. Since my original cracks were pretty long, I had put a single layer fiberglass patch on each side. Upon removing the plate, no further cracks or stress points were found. Now it was also about this time that Dave Henderson and I were returning from our 1st V-Daze at Taos, New Mexico, after forming up Tri-Star Industries. We were looking to enhance our product line and this plate surely seemed to resolve a problem that all '86 through '89 Venture riders with passengers would face at some point in time. When we decided to produce these plates, we chose to use a heavier gauge aluminum than my original test model. We also had to start with a 4' X 8' sheet of aluminum which yielded over 140 plates. Well, we sold these plates in a couple of years and now are on our second set. And we've heard some real interesting stories. I think the best one was one Dave and I experienced at the '91 V-Daze in St. Ste. Marie, Michigan. One couple carefully looked over the plate we had on our demo bike and listened to Dave describe how the problem started and how the plate resolved the situation. The husband thanked him, but stated that they didn't have a problem with their backrest or trunk. It wasn't 5 minutes later that they were back, with the wife chuckling at her husband who had a sheepish look on his face. They had left the show and when the wife went to get on the bike, the backrest (which she used as support when getting on) came off in her hand. The trunk was completely busted out where the backrest mounted to the trunk. Yes, they purchased one of our plates. I advised them to see about getting the trunk replaced under warranty. Fortunately Yamaha has been great about replacing trunks that have cracked or busted out from the backrest. However, it works best to have a dealer that will support your claim but sometimes you have to get pushy to get them to turn it in. I have lost count of the calls we have received for plates from riders that have gotten a new trunk from Yamaha, who want to stop the problem from happening again. I have determined from viewing trunks at shows and from talking to customers that it is not a matter of whether the trunk will crack from the backrest mounting as to when it will crack. For those folks with a 1990 or later model, Yamaha has revised the mounting surface to extend to the top bolts in the mirror which appears to resolve the problem. This is a rather expensive piece and I guess they decided not to retrofit '86 - '89 models with the update but to replace entire trunks instead. I say this with tongue in cheek as Yamaha has done sillier things in respect to warranties. The main reason I wrote this article was to let everyone that we had not already reached through our ads and word of mouth know about the problem looming behind the trunk mirror of '86 through '89 models. Dave and I are members of Texas Chapter 6, a pretty large chapter and most all of our Ventures are fitted with one of our backrest plates, many of which were installed during one of our many chapter work days (where we get together and work on each others bikes). It was my thought that we could make other chapters or groups a special deal on multiple orders to help resolve this evident problem of cracking trunks. Each plate kit contains mounting screws, a drill bit painted to form a depth gauge and detailed instructions. Rick Butler #00007

Here is the pinstripe for Graceful Maroon: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYAL-SADDLEBAG-PINSTRIPING-DECALS-/300388306366?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f089cdbe&vxp=mtr

That clip is a safety clip to prevent the loss of the handle bar holder nuts. The handlebars mount to the holder, the holder bolts through the upper triple tree, the nuts go on the studs projecting under the triple tree and the clip goes through the hole near the end of the studs. Number 16 in this pic.

All that and more. YamaMama you might consider deleting this post or any posts that show perceived remorse. Lawyers and courts have gone to reading social network posts of defendants and plaintiffs to get an edge. And yes, this is a social network.

Yes, of course. My mistake. Here is a brand new one for the right side: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XVZ12-13-Venture-OEM-Rear-Master-Cyl-Cover-NIP-/250686514888?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5e14a6c8&vxp=mtr And here are several used ones: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-XVZ1200-1300-Left-and-right-lower-plastic-guards-1983-1986-/221186661235?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337fc09b73&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-YAMAHA-XVZ13-XVZ1300-VENTURE-MISC-PLASTIC-COVERS-28-/350623365663?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a2c7fa1f&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-Yamaha-XVZ1300-XVZ-13-1300-D-Venture-right-side-lower-cover-panel-/261101590845?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccade193d&vxp=mtr And here is a chrome one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venture-XVZ12-XVZ1200-XVZ1300-XVZ13-HAND-MADE-STEEL-MASTER-CYLINDER-COVER-1983-/271112866148?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1f960964&vxp=mtr

Like I said earlier: the SIGNAL fuse. 20 amp. The tachometer, voltmeter, temperature gauge and neutral light all share the same brown wire and the brown wire is protected by the SIGNAL fuse.

I have to use my choke whenever the engine is at room temperature. I'd say it is normal.

Here is a brand new one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-NEW-DISCONTINUED-SIDE-COVER-3-VENTURE-ROYALE-MOTORCYCLE-41R-21731-00-00-/350831367634?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51af2dd5d2&vxp=mtr

No, there is just one place for the oil. The engine oil and transmission oil are one and the same. With the bike on the centerstand, very little oil will be drained through that six o'clock screw. Put it on the sidestand, however and more oil will be drained.

It is hard to tell from your pic but the screw at the bottom of the middle gear cover at the six o'clock position has a copper crush washer under the head of the screw to act as a seal for that hole. I think the case has that notch and the screw has that washer so as to act as a drain plug for the middle gear cover, if you were ever wanting to drain the area of motor oil. Double check that the 6 o'clock cap screw does indeed have that copper washer. It is sometimes misplaced and the leak you have is the result.