Prairiehammer

As Freebird says, the Rivco adapter will work with the Bosch 3320. Additionally, NAPA 1381 Fram TG3950 Amsoil SDF44 AC/Delco PF1177 STP S3950 WIX 51381 Hastings LF144 Mobil1 M1 105

Thank you, Orlin for the invitation and hospitality. Great to meet some new Venture Riders and reestablish some older friendships. Couldn't have asked for nicer weather. Sorry to have had to bail out early on Saturday. We got wet heading back to Aaron's. Hope that is penance enough. But we had a nice ride home to Illinois on Sunday.

Strange. When I click on his globe it takes me to Marseilles in Illinois. Perhaps he corrected it? But your point is valid Trader.

Drain the carb bowls into a clear container, let it settle and see if there is water. If so, drain the fuel tank and change the fuel filter. Change the spark plugs, too.

Obviously, the cheapest and simplest thing to try first is to bleed them. The 1983 is a bit more difficult to get the air out because of the anti-dive mechanism (brake fluid actuated) and also due to the fact that there is no bleeder up at the steering neck (the highest point). After bleeding the left front and the rear, you will have to bleed the joint at the steering neck by cracking the fitting while pushing the pedal; hopefully some air and fluid will ooze out. Just as when bleeding the calipers, tighten the fitting before releasing the pedal. You will probably have to do this repeatedly, preferably with an overnight rest. Maintain the proper brake fluid level in the rear reservoir while bleeding to ensure no air is pumped back into the system. This would be a good time to completely flush the old brake fluid out and replenish with new. After all, most of the brake and clutch hydraulic issues erupt because of old fluid. BTW (actual two IMPORTANT BTWs). On that old rear master cylinder reservoir it is very common to break off the refill plug boss while attempting to loosen the fill plug. Don't go in there expecting to just slap a wrench on the plug and torque away. As a plumber, you know the technique of "holding back" with another wrench when trying to tighten (or loosen) a fitting; do a "hold back" on the plug boss with a Crescent wrench while trying to loosen the plug. You're welcome. The second important BTW: Brake fluid is extremely destructive to the (almost exclusively) ABS plastic on these bikes. Go to great lengths to protect the paint and plastic while doing any work involving brake fluid. Cover ANYTHING that may get fluid spilled on it. Use impermeable plastic (garbage bag) as the base layer of your protection scheme and cover the plastic with shop towels, several of 'em. When you are finished with the work, thoroughly rinse the plastic with water. BRAKE FLUID WILL DESTROY THE VENTURE'S PLASTIC. For a recent example see this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79647 Another tip: I find that brake (and clutch) bleeding on the Venture is easier if I use a Mity Vac vacuum pump. It is a good investment. And Speed Bleeders®, especially when trying to bleed the left front brake caliper without a helper.

When the speedometer starts it's wailing due to a lack of lubrication in the speedometer head, it can be very loud and high pitched, some/most characterize the sound as a squeal that rises and falls in tone based on ground speed. One way to diagnose: 1. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the speedometer. If the noise ceases, then it points to a dry speedometer bushing. 2. Remove the inner drive cable from the speedometer cable assembly. If the noise ceases, it is the inner cable or perhaps a dry cable sleeve.

Well, I still don't get what all the fuss is about. Other than the initial day of the change when EVERYTHING was marked as "unread" (I read all the new posts and then marked all forums as read), the new way is working just as I think it should. It is acting just like the "old" way, with the sole exception that the unread posts are not marked as read (as in the previous version). I enter the site from this bookmark ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/index.php ), then click on "new" posts and everything that I have not read is shown. Everything that I HAVE read is shown when I click on "Today's" posts. Easy, peasy and the way it should be. It has always irritated me that unread posts (by me) were marked as read, if I left the site and returned. Please, Don, keep this "new" setup. Just makes the most sense.

A Great AMERICAN band; from "y'all land" no less.

Oh, you Canucks... Zed. Humph! That's only ONE (of many) thing you can't get correct. Humour? Labour? Colour? Neighbour? Chevy doesn't call the Camaro Z-28 a Camaro "Zed-28". Datsun didn't put "Zed 240" on the grill either. Do you call the V-Max a Ved-Max? Didn't think so. Zed. Zed. Top? I once owned a Kawasaki Z1-R. Somehow "Zed1R" doesn't look correct. Since you guys are closer to America than England, I would think you would use American English instead of Commonwealth English. Less cornfusion. Love ya! AND your STRONGER BEER.

So, I don't understand how the eBay mascot was different from yours? Like I said, other than the background color all the mascots from 1986 on were the same.

I am on board with the changes. I always had an issue with the old way. Posts were marked read, even if I didn't read them. Confusing. This way is more intuitive; if I haven't read the thread then it remains unread. This new way is more inline with the way all the other vBulletin forums that I occasion are run.

Although four brush starters were introduced on the 1991 Venture and V-Max, one can not be sure when buying a used starter "from a 1991 Venture" that it is in fact from a 1991 Venture and is four brush. Your safest bet is to buy a starter from the Second Gen. They were all four brush and the Second Gen starter will bolt up to the First Gen without modification. As for the Second Gen starter CLUTCH, there are several things that have to be changed besides the starter clutch; ie, ignition pick-up coils and the rotor are different from First Gen and Second Gen. Dingy did a comparison of using Second Gen rotor on First Gen block. IIRC it was quite a bit of swapping parts, including stator and case?

All the factory mascots were the same from 1986-1993, only the background color was different (either black or red, depending on the bike color). Sounds like you may not have had a factory mascot/trim?

Thanks, Craig for the suggestion on the route. It appears I may be able chalk up Delaware after all. That day's ride will take us from the Water Gap to Delaware and then I was gonna try for Shawnee State Park near Mann's Choice, Pennsylvania. Don, I will post my itinerary later, but I haven't planned to ride into Ontario on this trip. We ARE going to Niagara Falls (Goat Island) and will spend the night at Fourmile Creek SP near Youngstown, NY. I've got an invitation extended to Semi-Retired for supper with us on Sunday, August 4. Anyone in the area want to join in?

Kurt, I know you like the look without the fender mascot, but in case you still want to replace the lost mascot, there is one just posted on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/q4vmmh6

Craig, Is there any of the above issues with this route?: http://goo.gl/maps/LbNAz It appears that Reading is the biggest city on the above route. What's it like to travel through?

I've planned out my New England motorcycle trip for later this summer to include all the States and Provinces that I have not ridden in. All is well; except for Delaware. First; I desperately despise riding in (a) Big cities, (b) high traffic areas, © Interstates or even worse: high speed bumper to bumper expressways/tollways (you people are crazy and dangerous to me and my mo'sickle). So, my dilemma: I would like to "notch" up Delaware while on this New England trip, but it looks like a lot of city congestion from Delaware Water Gap to Delaware. What would be the best way (see above abhorred scenarios) to go to ANY point in Delaware from Delaware Water Gap region?

Good luck with the surgery, Mike. That bike of yours wants to be ridden a LOT more.

There is a thread on the Motocampers site ( http://www.motocampers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6716) that got me to pondering about the insurance on my cargo trailer. The trailer has been in storage for the past ten plus years and I hadn't given a thought to insurance until reading that thread. I also suddenly realized that our planned New England trip was going to be the first trip in which I pulled a trailer, into Canada no less. So, I contacted my agent and here is his email response to my questions regarding trailer insurance: Kevin, See the answers to each question below. The answers in red are for as your policy currently is on the 1990 Yamaha. Currently you do not have comprehensive or collision coverage on the 1990 Yamaha. If you were to add those coverage items then that changes the answers to the answers in blue. To add comprehensive, collision and accessory coverage up to $3,000 with a $500 deductible would cost you $17 for today through August 26, 2013. A $250 deductible would be an additional cost of $20 for today through August 26, 2013. If the rates do not change between now and August 26, 2013 the annual premium increase would be $90 for those additional coverage items. Let me know if you have any other questions or if you want to add comprehensive, collision and accessory coverage. Ron, Is my Dart cargo trailer while hitched to the bike insured as if it were an accessory? Or is it going to need coverage as a registered vehicle? Several scenarios: 1a. Wreck the bike while towing the trailer; is damage done to trailer as a consequence of the wreck, covered? NO YES up to $4,000 for the trailer and all other accessories subject to one deductible 1b. Is the BIKE covered if I hit a deer or run off the road? NO YES subject to deductible 2. Someone backs into the trailer while unhitched (motel parking lot, for instance). NO unless the party that hits the trailer is not insured. YES subject to $500 deductible 3. Someone steals the bike and trailer while hitched. NO YES subject to one deductible 4. Someone steals the trailer while parked unhitched. NO YES subject to deductible 5. Someone steals the contents of the trailer. Not covered by Progressive but would be by homeowners 6. Tree falls on the trailer (at a campground). NO YES subject to deductible 7. Fire engulfs the trailer and its contents. NO YES subject to deductible for the trailer, contents would fall under the homeowners. 8. A fire burns down my shop or garage; is my trailer covered if being stored inside? NO YES subject to deductible 9. Is the trailer covered if in Canada? For liability only not for damage to the trailer itself YES subject to deductible 10. Will the Progressive emergency road service cover a flat or blown tire on the trailer? YES YES for the trailer or bike but you must call the Roadside assistance number for this to be good. Thank you. Kevin Ronald H Campbell Campbell Insurance Services Inc 416 W Main McNabb, IL 61335 Phone: 815-882-2126 Fax: 815-882-2526 Cell: 815-488-6828 WWW.Campbellsinsurance.com Perhaps it is needless to say, but I popped for the $20 premium for the additional coverage. Just a gentle reminder to all you trailer pullers out there in Venture Land to check your coverage.

Holy Cow! We've had some side stands break the pivot bolt, but breaking the mount off the frame is a new one to me. There appears to be a fair amount of corrosion in that area on your bike and the weld looks rather dicey. Perhaps it was "repaired" before?

Yeah, that's just what Dan collects!

Finally! I actually contributed to fixing someone's problem. Thanks! And glad I could help.

Yeah, it even shows an Ignitech number: [v88TCIP4full]

Fuses can LOOK okay, but the fuse holders can be dicey. You say you have no tools. How about a 12 volt test light (a light bulb)? Check the fuse holders for juice on BOTH sides of the fuse. Also, check the fuse in the OTHER fuse holder (black rectangular box in front of the battery) and especially check the "BACKUP" fuse for consistent continuity.