Prairiehammer

Keith, Were the worn out points on the fuel pump of the RSV or the 1986? The same basic Mitsubishi pump (with mounting changes) is used on several motorcycle brands. There is a repair kit for replacing the point/contact assembly available for $30-$50. An example here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Petrol-Pump-Repair-Kit-Honda-CBR-900-RR-Fireblade-/200694634286 And here (US seller): http://www.heartlandhonda.com/K&L-FUEL-PUMP-POINT-SWITCH-KIT-detail.htm?productId=17216829 And a How-To here: http://cbrforum.com/forum/stickies-91/how-repair-your-f3-fuel-pump-102151/

Out of the four turn indicators, just the right rear fails to flash? I would check that right rear turn signal bulb. But that is just me.

OK, but are the hardened metric bolts with the recessed head (Torx or Allen) available in the required flat head (for countersunk application)?

Broadly speaking, increased ignition timing should result in better fuel economy, correct? Retarding the timing usually results in poorer fuel economy, correct? So, with that, the Ignitech as delivered with the advanced timing should have better fuel economy. Perhaps, it is not the more advanced timing, but the actual ignition timing curve should be tweaked?

The vehicle manufacturer always specifies the recommended tire pressure for the tire that the vehicle is equipped with from the factory. Change to another tire and you should follow the TIRE manufacturer's recommendation for that tire, not the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation for the tire that came with the vehicle.

I replaced my TCI with the Ignitech this Spring. Previous to that I averaged 42 mpg while mostly two up and often fully loaded (GVW of approximately 1250#). Twenty-eight hundred twenty-six mile trip to Florida (solo, mixed Interstate and flower sniffing) averaged 40.85 mpg. Lake Superior trip, 2830 miles, 42mpg, two-up heavy load (camping for two weeks) mostly two lane. Two tanks this early Spring (before the Ignitech) averaged 42 mpg. Installed the Ignitech, and averaged 35 mpg for two tanks. Pulled a trailer to Freebird's MD and averaged 33.3 mpg (one-up, nearly all Interstate speeds). Took a 600 mile trip this past weekend (all two lane roads, two-up) and averaged 37 mpg. We are planning a 3500 mile trip next month, pulling a trailer, two-up and I am imagining average mpg at about 30-31. My question: since it seems installing the Ignitech has resulted in reduced fuel economy, what settings can I adjust and what should those settings be to more approximate the stock OEM ignition settings. I am presuming the current Ignitech settings/program deviates from the OEM settings.

Those screws are Yamaha part number 90149-08152-00. When I run that number, however it is obsolete. SOME parts fiche say that obsolete number has been superseded with this number: 90149-08013-00 The part number will tell you the size; in this case it is 8mm diameter, 13mm in length. BUT, this screw has a flat head configuration, making it more difficult to find a non Yamaha replacement. The Torx recess head is probably required in order to get a reliable torque. This place has the screws for $1.88 each: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-90149-08152-00-Screw-90149-08013-00-Made/dp/B005C5B2BE]Yamaha 90149-08152-00 Screw New # 90149-08013-00 Made by Yamaha : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

It is a Mitsubishi. Used on several different motorcycle brands. Only mountings vary.

Stupid democracy.

Do you mean on the left side of the engine? You took the middle gear cover off and found broken bolts? Could you describe the "tabs"? Are they (the tabs) the bearing retainers for the middle gear shaft? The bolts that are sheared off; are they Torx recess heads? Is this pic depicting where you are talking about? The middle gear cover is removed on the left side of the engine, toward the rear of the engine/transmission.

I know that I am beating a dead horse, but... I checked the forum this morning and found about thirty threads that had been updated since my last visit last evening. I DID NOT READ ANY OF THOSE THREADS, however, when I returned to the site 30 minutes later this morning, all but two of those thirty threads had been marked as read. Now I have to wade through ALL the posts since I visited last night to catch up. And because those threads have been marked "read", I can't use the "view first unread" feature, I have to start at the beginning of each thread (or the end of the thread and work backwards) and read down until I find those comments posted since I visited last. I SERIOUSLY don't get you guys' complaints about the "New Forum Change" other than the fact that it was a CHANGE. ("You can't teach an old dog new tricks" comes to mind.) How in the heck is this old way better in light of my recent experiences?

I'm leaving on a 3500 mile trip on August 3. I would like to take the OEM TCI with me as a backup to the Ignitech. Does that give you enough time to complete your trip and have it back to me for my trip?

It is stock with about 24000 miles on it. I have no idea what the hiccup was about. I replaced the TCI with an Ignitech from Dingy, but the stock OEM TCI never failed me.

I have a known good TCI from my 1990. The only glitch in it was a "hiccup" at 3100 rpm. I have sawn off the mounting ears, though. You'll have to Velcro or tape it to the top of the airbox.

As Freebird says, the Rivco adapter will work with the Bosch 3320. Additionally, NAPA 1381 Fram TG3950 Amsoil SDF44 AC/Delco PF1177 STP S3950 WIX 51381 Hastings LF144 Mobil1 M1 105

Thank you, Orlin for the invitation and hospitality. Great to meet some new Venture Riders and reestablish some older friendships. Couldn't have asked for nicer weather. Sorry to have had to bail out early on Saturday. We got wet heading back to Aaron's. Hope that is penance enough. But we had a nice ride home to Illinois on Sunday.

Strange. When I click on his globe it takes me to Marseilles in Illinois. Perhaps he corrected it? But your point is valid Trader.

Drain the carb bowls into a clear container, let it settle and see if there is water. If so, drain the fuel tank and change the fuel filter. Change the spark plugs, too.

Obviously, the cheapest and simplest thing to try first is to bleed them. The 1983 is a bit more difficult to get the air out because of the anti-dive mechanism (brake fluid actuated) and also due to the fact that there is no bleeder up at the steering neck (the highest point). After bleeding the left front and the rear, you will have to bleed the joint at the steering neck by cracking the fitting while pushing the pedal; hopefully some air and fluid will ooze out. Just as when bleeding the calipers, tighten the fitting before releasing the pedal. You will probably have to do this repeatedly, preferably with an overnight rest. Maintain the proper brake fluid level in the rear reservoir while bleeding to ensure no air is pumped back into the system. This would be a good time to completely flush the old brake fluid out and replenish with new. After all, most of the brake and clutch hydraulic issues erupt because of old fluid. BTW (actual two IMPORTANT BTWs). On that old rear master cylinder reservoir it is very common to break off the refill plug boss while attempting to loosen the fill plug. Don't go in there expecting to just slap a wrench on the plug and torque away. As a plumber, you know the technique of "holding back" with another wrench when trying to tighten (or loosen) a fitting; do a "hold back" on the plug boss with a Crescent wrench while trying to loosen the plug. You're welcome. The second important BTW: Brake fluid is extremely destructive to the (almost exclusively) ABS plastic on these bikes. Go to great lengths to protect the paint and plastic while doing any work involving brake fluid. Cover ANYTHING that may get fluid spilled on it. Use impermeable plastic (garbage bag) as the base layer of your protection scheme and cover the plastic with shop towels, several of 'em. When you are finished with the work, thoroughly rinse the plastic with water. BRAKE FLUID WILL DESTROY THE VENTURE'S PLASTIC. For a recent example see this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79647 Another tip: I find that brake (and clutch) bleeding on the Venture is easier if I use a Mity Vac vacuum pump. It is a good investment. And Speed Bleeders®, especially when trying to bleed the left front brake caliper without a helper.

When the speedometer starts it's wailing due to a lack of lubrication in the speedometer head, it can be very loud and high pitched, some/most characterize the sound as a squeal that rises and falls in tone based on ground speed. One way to diagnose: 1. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the speedometer. If the noise ceases, then it points to a dry speedometer bushing. 2. Remove the inner drive cable from the speedometer cable assembly. If the noise ceases, it is the inner cable or perhaps a dry cable sleeve.

Well, I still don't get what all the fuss is about. Other than the initial day of the change when EVERYTHING was marked as "unread" (I read all the new posts and then marked all forums as read), the new way is working just as I think it should. It is acting just like the "old" way, with the sole exception that the unread posts are not marked as read (as in the previous version). I enter the site from this bookmark ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/index.php ), then click on "new" posts and everything that I have not read is shown. Everything that I HAVE read is shown when I click on "Today's" posts. Easy, peasy and the way it should be. It has always irritated me that unread posts (by me) were marked as read, if I left the site and returned. Please, Don, keep this "new" setup. Just makes the most sense.

A Great AMERICAN band; from "y'all land" no less.

Oh, you Canucks... Zed. Humph! That's only ONE (of many) thing you can't get correct. Humour? Labour? Colour? Neighbour? Chevy doesn't call the Camaro Z-28 a Camaro "Zed-28". Datsun didn't put "Zed 240" on the grill either. Do you call the V-Max a Ved-Max? Didn't think so. Zed. Zed. Top? I once owned a Kawasaki Z1-R. Somehow "Zed1R" doesn't look correct. Since you guys are closer to America than England, I would think you would use American English instead of Commonwealth English. Less cornfusion. Love ya! AND your STRONGER BEER.

So, I don't understand how the eBay mascot was different from yours? Like I said, other than the background color all the mascots from 1986 on were the same.