bongobobny

Makes me wonder just exactly what happened! Stocks are not that easy to break...

Smart move IMHO...

I'm getting the impression from the pictures on the cover that it misleads you into thinking you can restore D cells, 9 volt, AA's, etc which you can't really!! Sure, you can rejuvenate lead acid batteries but for the most part, I'm smelling scam! Maybe you CAN judge a book by it's cover...

Another good tool is a Colortune plug for adjusting the richness, which is a lot less expensive than an exhaust gas analyzer...

OK as already mentioned, you should be getting around 40 mpg, give or take, depending on driving styles. Go over 70 mph and mpg drops drastically! As far as the K&N filters, yes indeed you will loose a couple of MPG! Everything is a trade off, so with the K&N it is more free flowing which gives you a slight increase in HP or performance, but at the cost of economy. Proper carb sync, or lack thereof, will affect gas mileage as well!!! Popping with deceleration is usually due to improper AIS operation as mentioned, but carb sync can add to the issue. I've heard both pros and cons concerning the Dyna ignition module as far as MPG...

Many of us buy from Bike Bandit, and Boats.net, both are very reliable and bargains. The chief differences between the Royale and the Standard are the Audio system and the C.L.A.S.S. or Computer Leveling Air Suspension System. On the Standard the air pressure for the front and rear is manually adjusted with a hand pump. Other than that, except for the color, as mentioned they are the same bike! Of course, the Royal is more desirable than the Standard, but as far as resale value, there is little difference. One thing to mention if you try to convert the Standard to the Royale, on the MK1 version ('83 - '85) the wiring harness is different so you will have to swap out the main harness. The two main issues with the 1st Generation Ventures is the carburetors, which are very complex and need to be precision set up, and the ignition module. Chances are any of your running problems are connected to one of these two issues. To properly rebuild your carbs you will need around $400 or so of parts, a couple of specialized measuring tools which are a carb sync set of gauges and an exhaust gas analyzer, along with a good instructional video so you know just what you are doing and why! The ignition module is best served by replacing with one of several aftermarket units out there instead of a used factory one or an impossible to find very pricey factory stock one! Aftermarket replacements run around $200. Engine wise they are known to go well over 200,000 miles! With the '83, however, there is an issue with 2nd gear going out due to a soft metal thrust washer which requires you removing the engine and splitting the case to get to. Other than that about the only thing you need to do is adjust the valve clearance about every 50,000 miles give or take. This can be done with the engine still in the bike. There is a special tool needed to do this. The last thing to mention with the '83 model year only is a known problem with the frame rusting from the inside at the area of the rear shock mounting. The mounting was modified with the '84 year model. I should also mention that your front forks will most likely need rebuilding and the springs replaced with Progressive brand springs which run around $80 for a pair. Do not use aftermarket seals as they usually leak. Many of us have replaced the front forks with forks from the MK2 ('86 - '93) so you can replace those inadequate brakes with modern 4 piston brakes from a Yamaha R1 or R6, and get rid of the hydraulic anti dives and use the electric ones instead. There's more little stuff besides the above-mentioned items... Hope all this hasn't scared you off too much! Once properly running they are one of the finest touring bikes ever made!!!

THANKS Dan, I think...

Vancouver B. C. has to be one of the most expensive places to live on earth!!

Yah! You have to be an East Coaster and been to Don's MD to understand Pond Monsters, Bert! The original Pond Monster was member Swifty about 10 years ago in Freebird's pond at Maintenance Day. Myself I don't find much to do about the FB group myself, most questions that come up could have been answered right here on the site. I usually post a link to the answer here on the site to the FB post...

Yikes!!!!!

Having driven thru Orlando on I-4 can't say as I blame you, Dion!!

Heh! My Sister-in-Law lives in Sun City in a gated community... Small world!

Yup! It is a pressure relief orifice...

Don't do any drilling, you will most likely damage the push button switch that the button pushes against. Yes, the other end of the push button is a split shaft with two tangs on the ends. To remove, you simply remove the cover from the controller and squeeze the two tangs together and push out. To remove the controller you just remove the whole assembly out of the dash then remove the controller, then the cover. It's just a few screws, I'm sure you will figure it out. Wouldn't surprise me if the two pieces of the push button self-launched and aren't even in the cover any more.

So true regardless of WHAT nationality your wife is!! Let me ask you a question if I may. If a man goes deep into the woods and says something where no woman can hear him, is he still wrong???

About the only place is from another junk radio controller... I used to have some spares but I think I gave the last one away about a year or so ago. This is, unfortunately, a common problem.

Hmmm, you don't know Becky that well then! That ain't happening!!!

As far as notifications, go to your settings and check things out there...

I'm a little late on this thread, but after reading the first couple of posts I was going to suggest looking at your proportioning valve. There's not a lot inside, pretty much just a spring and piston but the orifices could be blocked... The function of the proportional valve is to cause a slight delay in the delivery of hydraulic fluid to the front brake when the rear brake pedal is pressed. The spring rate determines the time constant of the delay. There is also a metering valve located near the front forks on the underside of the frame near the battery box. It is a simple orifice that regulates hydraulic flow to the front brake. How well is the one front brake working?? Wow, it's been a while, I think it is the right front that is linked to the rear, but if I am wrong somebody correct me...

Thanks, Dave!! I would say I'm about 95% now, just an occasional twang if I move the wrong way or try to pick something off of the floor...

Sometimes you just have to unplug them for a few minutes, and then reprogram them, Don! Mine did that once, as near as I can figure out I must have accidently hit a couple of the buttons and put ours in hibernate...

Yup!! Truly a great guy!! It's very good to hear from him and at least see a picture of him again!!

Hmmm, around here that is typical for Fed-Ex...

Some days you are better off staying in bed, eh Dan?!!?

Sorry Ben, but a family function came up that we can't miss so we are cancelling...