Ivan
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Everything posted by Ivan
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Well, the diaphragms look good on the first carb. I was hoping to find the rubber plugs for the jet block and gaskets in a nifty kit. The carb kits for my XS were just a bowl gasket, a needle and seat and new jets. I may have to get out the hole punches and make new gaskets.
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I am having a heck of a time finding carb kits for this beast. Is there a model of Vmax that might have the same carbs? I can find some individual pieces, but $20 a pop for a jet block gasket isn't right. not right at all.
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sooner or later I will need fairings. I want to get it running well before I get into the cosmetics. I think the only pieces that survived well are the trunk and side bags. every thing else is really brittle. the false tank may be ok, but all the side covers and dash panels are so brittle, they crack when I even walk by them. You said they may be spoken for, and that is ok, as I am not in a terrible hurry.
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Thanks for the link. I have the master cylinders and water pump cover taken care of. let me know about the other stuff, if it comes up. I think my luggage is all ok, so I don't need that. I think it is a different type of plastic, and didn't get brittle.
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This bike shall be added to the hallowed listing of "That which does not suck".
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I have not checked this, but it is entirely possible. The turn signals aren't working either, but I didn't connect the two. You may be onto something.
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Thanks for the hints. I have several large tubes of ford electrical grease left over form an air bag recall on crown vics (I think, its been a while). This stuff works wonders for electrical connections. To use a bad movie analogy "Scotch-locks is the devil!" (waterboy). I hate those damn things. Wire nuts are great, if you are working on a house. I stick with the solder and heatshrink or weatherproof crimp connectors on automotive stuff. The weather proof crimp connectors are very good since they are coated with glue on the inside and make a great seal. Supposedly they are good for underwater, but I haven't tried it yet. I used to wrench on cars, with a specialty in electrical diag and repair, so I am good with the repair. The diag may be a bit of a problem, since I don't seem to find any good wiring diagrams. As for the parts offer. I have had several people offer parts so far (WOW!). So I might as well put up some of the parts I need. Front brake and clutch master cylinders Water pump cover starter solenoid Pretty much any body part. The bike looks like it sat out in the weather, and the panels are absolutely fragile. they break just looking at them. Instrument cluster, maybe. I still need to look into it. Now here's the catch. Boeing strike trickle down still has me on a short work week, novermber is the month for me to tag all my vehicles, and the holidays are coming up, and six kids need Christmas presents. I may have to buy a little bit at a time, so please bear with me. Any one in need of XS1100 parts, I may be able to work a trade.
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Yes that is correct. The center portion LCD screen goes blank. I pulled the instrument panel today and checked all the connections to be clean and not corroded, and pulled the LCD out of the panel and everything in there looks good as far as I can tell. No burnt traces or cold solder joints. It behaves just as you say if I turn the key on in gear, but when I shift into neutral, it dies. The illumination still works, but I think that is a separate system. After I got the thing running, I noticed the gauges and tach don't work either, but I wasn't able to shift into gear, since my clutch master cylinder is toast.
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Instrument panel disassembly help.
Ivan replied to sefner's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I attempted to do the same thing today, but couldn't get the little screw out. That was my first thought. Is it a crosshead or a hex head? I imagine mine is backed with 24 years of gunk. -
Good news, it runs. Still pretty rough, but it runs. Nexst step is a solenoid, and figuring out why the display blanks in neutral. I looked at the wiring diagram on one of the pdfs and there is no gear sensing switch on the diagram. Must have the wrong one or something. I am willing to bet there is a short to ground on the neutral wire some where. I did see where the PO ran some "extra" wiring and used those damn scotch lock connectors. Lots of work cut out for me.
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Well, the SR71 uses nitrogen in the tires because it doesn't expand as much at high altitudes like regular air does and prevents tires from blowing out. Also does better with the change in temperature created by the friction of the air at mach 4. So if you plan on riding mach 4 at 85,000 MSL you should probably get the nitrogen.
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Ohhhhhh...... Well I do have a tendency to indulge a bit too much. Probably why I look like I do. I have a furniture figure, my chest fell into my drawers. I have a connection to a packing house, and I can get steaks and such on the cheap. I may have to have a "bike meat" some time. Unfortunately, there are no good twisties in mid Kansas to work off the extra calories. During the summer, there are "biker pancakes" in a small town south of here on the third sunday of the month. Beer flavored pancakes, what could be closer to heaven?
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The solenoid is all rusted up, and when I supply voltage and ground on the primary windings, nothing happens. I have a nifty tool that attaches to the battery and has a probe with a switch that gives voltage or ground. It has a separate ground lead so one can test components. this is it: http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/N.21-Power-Probe-II/PID.PWP-PP2/prodid.51987/TID.%7B49765B43-DC28-47FD-AB20-BD2EB7A212E3%7D/qx/product.htm Anyhoot, I am sure that I need to replace the solenoid to make push button starting possible. My main concern is that if the LCD blanks in neutral, I may ot be getting power to the ignition system either. I am not looking forward to wiring harness repair, but it has to be done. At least I am not upside down under the dash of a FOrd Escort with my feet sticking out the sun roof. [url=http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/N.21-Power-Probe-II/PID.PWP-PP2/prodid.51987/TID.%7B49765B43-DC28-47FD-AB20-BD2EB7A212E3%7D/qx/product.htm][/url]
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The battery is off my XS11, and is good. It has enough to crank the engine with authority when I jump the solenoid, so i don't think it is a low available power issue. When the bike is in neutral, the LCD portion goes blank. I suspect this is a no start cause, leading to the bike sitting. Someone suggested seafoam in the carbies, but they are coming off soon to be fully re conditioned. I used to wrench on cars and have rebuilt hundreds of q-jets, holleys, carters etc. Not so long ago, I rebuilt the carbs on my XS 11, and it worked fantastically. On this venture, the slides on the rear cylinders are so gummed up, they won't move, so yeah, they are getting a bath hehe. I want to get the bike running before I start buying lots of parts. It needs a lot (master cylinders have the sight gage rotted out, and water pump cover is missing, etc and so forth) but I need to hear it run before I decide wether to restore it or not. Mostly I was hoping the blank LCD was a common problem, since my thinkin cap tends to get lost on the weekends. Probably under the cooler of beer.
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Here in KS, they leave the construction stuff up until it blows away or deteriorates over time. We have double fines in construction zones, all the severe consequences for hitting a worker etc. How here is my humble but very accurate opinion. If it were truly something the law makers were concerned about, the lives of construction workers, they would use DETOURS. If it is that dangerous, just make the traffic non existent. It may not be about revenue, but it sure as heck ain't about saving lives. Any bonehead could make traffic problems at a construction site less of a worry than the price of rice in China.
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Yes the fuel pump rattles when the key is on. The starter solenoid is toast, and I had to jump it to check that the engine cranks. The rest of the dash lights come on, but the LCD display only works in gear. Good thing its winter, I have time to work on this beast.
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Just bought an 84, not the Royale version (standard?) It needs lots of work. Been sitting for a couple years, every body piece on it is cracked some how, and the carb slides are stuck, just from my first looking over it. Good news is that I can jump the solenoid and it cranks over. I am sure I will have many questions, but my first one is this: When in neutral, the computerized display, the LCD part only, goes blank. In gear it displays properly. While I suspect t has something to do with the neutral start switch, is there a common place that I might check first as to avoid completely tearing apart the wiring harness? Also, is there a good place to find parts for this bike? Parts N more doesn't list it, and most other places I have found charge near dealer prices, or don't list it. Thanks