Jump to content

dingy

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,403

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    A faulty boost sensor will keep timing from advancing as intended. Gary
  2. dingy
    Attached a picture from another thread regarding this block, if it is the same one. There is some significant damage under the near main bearing in picture. That may be cause noise you are hearing., Maybe not, but a good starting point. Post #15: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=822076#post822076 Gary
  3. dingy
    Drilling plugs out is primarily to adjust idle mixture. This is one of the basic steps most often taken well in advance of re-jetting. Shimming of needles is a separate issue. What are your expect to gain from re-jetting. Any air box or exhaust changes? Have you gotten a base line A/F reading to see what needs to be changed? Gary
  4. dingy
    Sorry, I don't understand previous post ??? Gary
  5. dingy
    You have what Ignitech is supplying. Attached is a PDF file showing how I wire cables to use after market Sensor. I included some pictures of harness that has MAP wires added. I don't see a major difference between IAP & TPS settings other than the IAP settings are variable on left side of advance graph. The usage of either setting is dependent on an external sensor to vary a 0-5vdc signal in response to changing air pressure values. I have a TPS in place on Tweety, I just haven't hooked the Ignitech up to it. couple of pictures of what I did. 3D printed a modified spool in the throttle junction block to drive TPS. Gary
  6. dingy
    I tried the setup shown in attached pictures. I used a 5 port Vacu-tite fitting to tie the 4 sync ports together. The 5th port ran to a 1 1/2" PVC pipe with a cap on both ends. I tried several lengths of the chamber and the shortest possible worked to smooth out pulses while still not inducing to much lag. Not using it now, just running vacuum from #2 port. Gary
  7. dingy
    If it's looks like you could get a long drill down in there to put a helicoil in with. The tap drill to put a 6mm helicoil in is 1/4", closest American drill. This is an easy drill to find in an extended length. The helicoil uses 7mm tap to prepare for coil. As far as the tap drill for the existing holes being drilled through into oil pocket, this was knowledge of 1st gens, I don't know if the 2nd gens have same issue. Gary
  8. dingy
    I'm a happy camper with my Dano starter clutch. Tweety was starting to have issues. Higher compression in motor was accelerating failure. Picture of reworked rotor I got back from Dan attached. Also picture of stock starter clutch assy., removed from rotor. Rather puny in comparison. Gary
  9. dingy
    Pictures attached indicating timing holes in VMax camshafts. #1 is both cams side by side #2 is exhaust cam small hole #3 is exhaust cam large hole #4 is intake cam small hole #5 is intake cam large hole (180 deg from small hole+/-) Gary
  10. dingy
    Wayne, There is "14" cast into master reservoir near banjo bolt port on the 9/16" units. 14mm roughly equals 9/16" (.5511") 1/2" masters had "1/2" cast on them. Don't know why fractions once & metric on later unit. Gary
  11. dingy
    Since you delinked the brakes, it would be helpful if you put a 9/16" master on at this time. That will give you more volume to drive the doubled caliper piston volume. MKII's had 9/16" brake master's. MKI's were 1/2". Gary
  12. dingy
    Check the connector from the pickup coils to the harness. This is near rear shock dampener, left side by passenger footrest. There are (2) six pin connectors in that area. Pickup coil is one with 5 wires in it. I have seen this connector cause intermittent operation before. Gary
  13. dingy
    It is not a bearing retainer pin, they are far smaller than size of found pin. There are no needle bearings in block near this size. It is a shifter pin. Gary
  14. dingy
    Yes. Gary
  15. dingy
    Torch. Not red hot though. Google Red Loctite specifications Gary
  16. dingy
    Also #4 & #8, old screw is hard to remove cleanly. Use heat on it to break loctite. Gary
  17. dingy
    Picture of upgrade shift segment attached. You do not need the plate at top left, old one is fine. Picture of parts break down attached & link to page. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2003/ROYAL+STAR+MIDNIGHT+VENTURE+%28Onyx%29+-+XVZ1300TFSR/SHIFT+CAM+FORK/parts.html The shift segment pins will be hardened steel, not easy to cut at all. All needed pins are about $10. Shift segment is $33.32 Gary
  18. dingy
    Some pictures of the Hybrid as it progresses. Heel toe shifter replaced with a 1st gen pedal. Head light is dual projector units with HID unit on high beam. 2nd gen master cylinders may not work on the 1st gen bars due to angle of reservoir body, 1st gens are angled so top is parallel to ground. 2nd gens are at a quite an angle. I can install 1st gen masters if 2nd gens don't work out. Front shock spring adjustable pre-load spacers installed. 1st gen rear rotor, 320mm floating, mated to 2nd gen caliper. Front end is entirely 1st gen, except calipers, these are from YZF750 Yamaha 1997. 6 piston units. Gary
  19. dingy
    Shifter segment in attached picture. You have one on right side. Parts breakdown it is in Shift Cam section Gary
  20. dingy
    Fairly sure it is a gear shift segment pin. Clutch side, lower rear of case. Gary
  21. dingy
    Attached is PDF section from VMax service manual on replacing cams. It may vary from RSTC. Gary VMX12- Service-Manual Cam install.pdf
  22. dingy
    You also have third option of Manual setting. In attached picture, I drew an arrow to the 3 settings that are added when Manual dwell is selected. I have not worked with this setting though. It would seem that shortening the dwell time would help. Gary
  23. dingy
    The Ignitech can use either the stock Venture sensor or an aftermarket sensor. A one bar sensor is best option. I include an aftermarket unit that is wired into adapter cable. There were a couple of issues that drove the new MAP sensor. 1st, the stock sensor is a 12v output. Ignitech said 12v would be OK with TCI, which is 5V based input/outputs. 2nd, by supplying a new MAP, there was a known good replacement for the stock sensor, which has been known to have failed. I have been using TPS setting on units I sell. MKI, MKII and VMax settings are similar for MAP settings, no substantial differences. Gary
  24. dingy
    Pin outs shown in attached picture of where traces go to on board for connectors pins. You probably don't need this since you cut box open. Handy to have where pin ended up in case a trace was damaged when soldering pins. Picture of board shows replaced diodes. They don't have to be right against board. It is easier to leave them higher up, then a heat sink, like an alligator clip can be attached to longer leg. Gary
  25. dingy
    Attached are some pictures of one I cut open. Very center of board, there is a component I cut with band saw. Also a picture of section I cut out. This is a very bad one inside. It wasn't working. Gary
×
×
  • Create New...