Freebird

It's been a long time since we had any type of contest here. So....we are having one now. Final day for entry will be Sunday October 13 at 9:00 AM. The contest is open to all SUPPORTING MEMBERS who simply reply to this thread. I'm going to send an email to all members in just a few minutes to let everybody know. You must be a supporting member before the end of contest in order to be eligible. There are a lot of members that we haven't heard from in a while so what I want to see in the responses is simply how you are doing, what you are riding or if you are still riding, just something to let us know that you are still around. We want to hear from you. So, whether you post everyday or haven't posted in a while, please respond to this message. The winner will be drawn randomly from all the people who reply to this message. Winner will receive a brand new VentureRider cap.

Not the bikes for me but there are quite a few K1600 BMWs on Facebook Marketplace in my area. Ranging in price from $6500.00 to around $14500.00. Many of them with 3500 to 14000 miles on them.

I'm not sure which one you are talking about but here is a parts diagram of the front brake caliper. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1996/royal-star-tour-classic-xvz13ath/front-brake-caliper Taking another look at your pictures, I don't think the parts diagram shows what your are asking. Hopefully somebody else can chime in. My thought would be that their would only be an O-Ring on one side but I'm not 100% sure.

LOL...that would certainly explain it. Hard to sync ONE throttle body.

This post got me thinking about the 'SVTC. I looked through the manual and found nothing about syncing the throttle bodies. Will look again but I looked pretty good.

LOL....yea that's it. I see that my spell check got me again. OK...CARBURETED

Just looked it up and it is indeed for injected or carbonated bikes. Looks good.

It's for synching the throttle bodies of a fuel injected bike. That being said, I don't know why it wouldn't work. You are still working with vacuum. I synced the throttle bodies on a BMW with my Carbtune. Same thing.

That is certainly a possibility. Many people use Yamahlube and it always caused hard shifting on in my RSV. Even before changing the break in oil though, mine still shifted very smooth.

Great write-up and very much the same way I feel about my SVTC. The heat really hasn't bothered me at all and in fact, I don't feel much. Haven't got stuck in a long line of traffic though. It is certainly no worse, and I don't think as bad, as the 2013 Road Glide that I had. Time will tell.

I don't know why some shift hard and others don't. Mine is probably the smoothest shifting bike I've ever ridden. Another VentureRider rode it the other day and actually commented on how smooth it shifts.

I posted another thread about it. The guy who has been providing them for years has shut down his business and no longer supplying them. He asked me to delete the ad. I will be looking for a new provider.

I'm sure you will. He told me that they were mailed yesterday. He's an honest guy. If he didn't get your order before running out, he will certainly refund your money. I'm betting that you'll get it though.

Well folks, I talked to Clif, who was doing our VentureRider caps. He had a few left over, in black only, and was selling out what he had but he no longer has his business license and will not be doing them any longer. So, at this time, we have nobody making caps. He said that if anybody is interested in taking it on, he would ba glad to send them the embroidery file. I was lucky enough to get a new one ordered but don't know if he has anymore or not. He asked me to remove the ad.

The spreadsheet is in our tech library here: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43410-Valve-adjustment-Excel-spreadsheet

Here is a write-up on adding a "Y" to the cable to bring it outside to another location. If you are removing the tape deck, simply forget about the "Y" and bring a straight cable out. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3905-Installing-an-Aux-line-splitter

The aux can absolutely be used without the tape deck. Many of us have done it. You simply unplug the cable, add an extension cable available most anywhere, and run it out to where you want it.

Pictures restored.

I never route a tachometer that was small enough to actually fit into the plate. I saw where somebody made the plate larger so that a small "Barons" tach would work but the plate had to be made differently and had a projection that dropped down at the bottom. As for the auxiliary, that is not an issue. There is simply a wire that you unplug and then plugin a 1/8" stereo jack and bring it out to wherever you want. A lot of us did that anyway. Even with the tape deck still there, a lot of us unplugged the wire, put a splitter on it, then ran it out to another location so that the door didn't have to be open to use it.

I'm about 6'2" tall but much of my height is my long legs. The article I posted about is a great source for determining the proper height for you. I easily look over it when down and about 3" below the top edge when it is up. I get little wind buffeting either way but slightly more with it down. I like looking through it unless the weather is fogging it up or something. Mine is about 2" wider on each side and I really like the extra width. Mine is the exact same height as the stock shield which was perfect for me. The new one that they are sending is lightly tinted and of course has the recurve.

I don't know what the problem is but I don't remember having that issue on my SVTC...should be the same system. I stop for gas and when I take off again, radio works fine. I'll take a closer look over the next day or so.

He asked me about it. I think they would do it if you wanted them to. I had one on my RSVs and liked it but with the adjustable shield, I felt the vent would be way too high when in the up position so I opted against it.

I did some testing on this prototype. They have a Sight Gauge writeup on their site but it turns out that the stock height was perfect for me. I ordered mine the same as stock but hadn't really ever done any measurements. They asked me to do it and it turned out to be perfect for me. You can go to their website to see the details but in a nutshell. Here is a link to their instructions. https://www.clearviewshields.com/about-your-shield/choosing-your-shield-height/ Put your bike on level ground. Measure 50 ft. from the front tire of your bike. Put something on the ground at 50 ft. for a marker. If you wish to look THROUGH the shield, the top of the shield should be 2" - 3" above your line of site when you look at the object 50' in front of you. If you wish to look OVER the shield, the top edge of the shield should be right at the object you placed on the ground. Having the adjustable shield gives me the ability to rider either way. With the shield, stock height, all the way up, I my line of site is almost exactly 3" below the top of the shield. With the shield all the way down, my line of site is EXACTLY at the top edge of the shield. Yamaha couldn't have gotten it better if they had used me for the model. Having 3" of vehicle adjustment makes it work perfectly when you like to look over it or through it. You just have to get the right height.

Well...I'm not sure what kind of seasoning they used on my but I don't like it.

hmmmm.....I'll have to get back to you on that.