MiCarl

Much more likely you've got something loose rattling. A loose heat shield on an exhaust can sound like the engine is coming apart.

If it idles cold but not warmed up it is probably too rich. Check for: 1) float valve not completely shutting 2) float level too high 3) idle mixture set too rich.

If you want to keep the air shock you can get just a spring from Progressive. It's not too difficult to install, although you'll need a press to get the old spring off and the new on.

If you're using a Motion Pro Sync-Pro replace it. The tool works great on carburetors that are very close to being synced. If they're out even a little bit it will suck the fluid out of one. I used one for awhile in the shop. Then I put it on a bike that was a bit out and sucked a column or two dry. I got the repair kit but it's never been right since. I went back to my dial gauges.

We used to have them here. I had a Chevy S10 that I only changed the oil on. Every year the measured ppm went down. I had the lowest emission vehicle in town. Then the tail pipe fell off. I saw that the weld seam along the pipe had rusted out from the muffler to a couple inches from the outlet. Apparently I was mixing more clean:whistling: air in every year.

The uniform DOT date went into effect in 2000. Any tire without the new coding was made before then.

What you're describing sounds like an accessory or aftermarket part. Your title will give the model year of the motorcycle.

The holey diaphragms were adding extra air to the intake. Now the sync has changed and you're rich. You need to tune the carbs for sure.

I use Arvixe. $96 for two years, including one domain registration. I run all my business stuff and our STAR Touring site on that plan. Only extra charge is $9.95/year for registering a 2nd domain. They have a decent site builder and offer a huge selection of free applications. In addition to some static web pages I have 2 shopping cart systems, a forum and blog which are all lightly used. The heaviest use is a database application that I wrote to manage all our parts and service orders. That database application is used all day, every day. Theoretically you get unlimited everything, but that's not strictly true. There servers have hundreds of users and if you habitually use more than your share they will spank you. I've never been spanked. If you grow to where you use too many resources you can send them extra money to move you up - all the way to having servers 100% dedicated to you.

Depends on what kind of adult site you visit.

I want to point out that the cover bolt has a shoulder on it that bottoms out on the cam cap. At that point there should be enough tension in the rubber donut to properly tighten the gasket. If you use an insert with any kind of head or lip the bolt will be too high and the cover will be loose. Use a helicoil or some other insert that is flush or below.

In Firefox: Options-> Content. Mark the check box that says "Block Pop Up windows". Keeps most of mine off. Mozilla Firefox, Windows 7 Professional.

Atmospheric pressure is ~ 30" Hg. A perfect vacuum is 0" Hg. You really don't measure vacuum, you measure difference to atmosphere, so 30" Hg would be the maximum. We were working in cm Hg though. 30" = 76.2cm. 11" Hg = 27.84 cm Hg. ___ Whether one cylinder is running poorly or not the vacuum will be the same on all of them if it's synced.

It's not the stator you need to worry about overtaxing - it's the wiring and the switch.

Simply replacing everything is an expensive way to go. Most important thing is to check the connectors. I Have a friend with a TD that recently broke down because of a slightly loose battery connection. In the tech library you can find a link to a service manual. That and a $10 multimeter from Harbor Freight will help you diagnose the actual problem(s).

Most likely you're out of sync. Not sure about the Venture off the top of my head, but many service manuals call for them to be matched to 2" Hg, which is 5.8cm. So you're not way out. On my gauges a well tuned Venture pulls about 25cm Hg.

It's simply a plug in the cooling jacket. The threads are for removing it (a spark plug top fits them). A 2013 is under warranty. Let the dealer worry about it.

Well sure, on wet grass. How do you do when it's dry?

I'm not sure what you mean by "my left knee is exactly at the extended/ flex position", but here is what I've found with my 1st gen: Passenger, even a small one, makes a big difference when stopping, if the bike is even a little off balance you've got a lot of weight to fight. I practice my friction zone/low speed stuff so I can completely avoid some stops (coming up to a light that has changed but traffic still isn't moving). When I do have to come to a full stop I try to brake with a little bit of authority rather than coasting into it. I find that by doing that things don't seem to have time to get out of balance.

One thing you might try is fishing the pick up wire out and check for any breaks (you'll have to do that to replace the coil any way). Be a shame to get a new coil if you just have a broken wire.

Here is the parts fiche: (10), is the coupler. The oil seal (9) seals it to the bearing retainer (6), you can see the step in the coupler where the seal runs. The holes at the back of the coupler are exposed to the bearing (8). Oil needs to pass through the bearing to get in there. It takes some time for that to happen since it's not pumped, that's why it needs to be greased on initial assembly.

The pinion seal on the final drive is between the side of the splined coupler the bearing retainer. The coupler has two holes in the back that allow gear oil to splash in for lubrication. The seal around the drive shaft (which is holding it into your coupler) keeps the oil from leaking out the front. The diagram posted refers to initial assembly, not routine maintenance. If you look at the cam installation section you'll see it call for moly lube on the cams, but you don't lube them unless they've been disassembled. It won't do any harm to lube it, but as recommended you should replace the seal if you tear it apart.

I've had to repeatedly straighten the clutch lever on my wife's Shadow. In her case, I do it with the lever mounted to the motorcycle. I put a piece of pipe (actually, an old fork tube) over the end of the lever. Using my body and left hand I lever the pipe so it's torquing the lever to its original shape. Then I heat the bend with a PROPANE torch until it moves. Don't use excessive force! Too little heat and it might snap. Too much and your lever may end up a puddle on the floor (although it takes a lot to get there with propane). By having the bending force on the lever as I heat it I'm sure to get enough heat without melting the lever.

Your seal is a bit different than the one in the V-Max photo you have. You're unlikely to get it apart without ruining the seal. As previously stated, those splines are lubed by the final drive oil. I'd leave that end alone.

My motto too, but not in this case. By the time you notice a problem you'll be in for a MAJOR repair. Check them.