MiCarl

Don, if I'm signed in the url you posted gives me the same error 1rooster sees. If I'm not signed in it shows the landing page. I think perhaps your permissions are only allowing guests and admins to view the page.

So sorry to hear that Puc. Been there.

If you use the same software you use on your other site you'll only have to be familiar with the one system and your custom code should work on either. While I'm offering opinions I'm not too keen on the orange/black theme. IMHO the blues are much more comfortable on the eyes.

I don't believe there is anything on the bike that indicates the model, other than it is encoded in the VIN. The model breaks out like this: XVZ13 - 1300cc Venture D - Royale package S - 1986 Model year C - indicates California emissions The only way I know to determine whether it is a California model is to look for the charcoal canister in the carburetor ventilation system. The non-California ones just vent to the atmosphere. I suppose Yamaha has some record by VIN that would indicate exactly....... The good news is that all the parts and specs for the XVZ13DS and XVZ13DSC are the same except for the fuel system, and the C being a couple pounds heavier.

When I re-ring an engine: I send the bores to my machinist who measures them and may true them up some. From there he advises me on which pistons/rings I need. Then I buy the pistons and rings and he does the final work on the bores to match them to the actual pistons I'll be using. It's never a case of just slap a new set in and go. Or if it works it won't be for long.

I absolutely would NOT start the bike until it's going back into service. You'll be putting combustion byproducts in the oil and moisture in the pipes. If you treat the fuel and take care of the battery there is no reason to start it.

Agreed - store it full. If you're only looking at a year the fuel should be fine for the first ride when he gets home. Good idea to put in fresh oil and filter, jam some window screen or wire mesh in any orifice a critter can move into.

I'm going to tell you about something we just did to a V-Star 1100 with the same issue. I cannot guarantee long term results. On the 1100 V-Star the middle gear set cannot be removed without splitting the cases. I found descriptions on the web where people drilled a hole in the output shaft and replaced that broken nut with a bolt. Some of them were only using 8mm bolts! A machinist friend made me a couple fixtures so I could drill and tap reasonably straight. I cut the threaded portion off and drilled and tapped for a 10mm bolt. Last I knew the repair only had a couple hundred miles on it, but was holding up. In your case, the output gear can be removed without splitting the case. You could get it to a machine shop for the drilling and tapping, much easier than on the bike. Might be worth a try......

Bottom line is the only thing on the dash the side stand should affect is the side stand indicator. The fact that the side stand does not kill the engine is a concern. Still think it's an electrical gremlin somewhere other than the side stand.

I think you've probably got an electrical gremlin unrelated to the side stand switch. Does everything work normally with the side stand up? Why are you pulling the clutch - is there an issue there? The side stand switch, side stand relay, clutch switch and neutral indicator all work together to disable the ignition and/or starter when the side stand is down with the motorcycle in gear. My guess is you've got a poor connection (most likely ground, as Flyinfool indicated) and the right combination of those switches provides an alternate path.

Air up the shocks to make the bike a bit taller to help you get it on the stand. You might like a light duty one under the front wheel to make it easier to move about......

To remove the fairing you have to remove everything ahead of the bags first. The good news is you don't have to remove the actual fairing for most service. The real tricky part is remembering where all the parts and fasteners go during reassembly. Some of the steps to remove the fairing halves: + Remove false fuel tank cover (screw under fill door, then slide forward). + Remove side covers (there is a rubber strap at the bottom, just behind rear cylinders, then they pull off. + Remove fairing top panels. + Remove front combination lamps. + Remove chromed strip below windshield (2 Phillips screws). + Remove windshield (4 screws). + Remove scoop under headlight. + Remove headlight (don't know how on MK1.....) + Remove trim panels along side radiator. + Remove lower fairing legs. + Remove mirrors. There are only a couple screws left to finish removing the fairing halves. I'm sure I missed a few things....

If you've resurrected a couple XJs you shouldn't have any problems. Process is pretty much the same. Major differences are you have to remove a bunch of plastic to get to anything and the electrical is quite a bit more complicated. The down draft Mikunis are a bit different than you've seen, but the principles are the same. Flyinfool is one of the people you seek. Find out what kind of beer he drinks..............

#29 is the part you need. The link for Thunder Valley Powersports is me. I don't stock the kit and it may be awhile before I'm placing an order with that supplier. Depending on the condition after you get in there the rebuild can run from difficult to impossible. If you pop an extra $50 for the whole slave (#27) you can slap it in and just be done with it. You will also need a middle gear cover gasket. The other parts in the thread sfcrader aren't a bad idea, but not essential.

The voltages you describe indicate the regulator rectifier is controlling it. Upgrading the stator won't affect that. Your voltages are consistent with what others see.

Without looking at a wiring diagram: Yamaha typically uses brown wires for switched hot. He probably grabbed power for something from the brake light circuit. Does the motorcycle have the original glass fuse panel? If so replace it. It's prone to failure with age and one of the "hacks" amateurs do is to steal power from elsewhere when it fails.

To reiterate: You should plug the air passages if you're removing the lines. The air trapped above the oil acts as an additional spring. Plus, you don't want dirt or moisture getting in or oil getting out.

Properly adjusted valves will tick a bit, especially cold. Only way to know for sure is to measure them.

Most are wasted spark ignitions like on the Venture. There are a few modern engines and the old OHC Honda singles and in line twins with breaker point ignitions that spark every other revolution. If you want to make it truly flexible just put a multiplier in your algorithm that can be set to 1 or 2. Default it to 1 and it'll work most of the time.

The fuel gauge is approximate at best. Check by filling up, if you put much more than a gallon in you're using too much fuel. The fact that you smell fuel is an indicator that it probably isn't the gauge. Vacuum leaks (including the diaphragms) tend to make it use too little fuel, unless bad enough to shut down one or more cylinders. If you are using too much fuel the most likely cause is the fuel levels are too high in the carburetors.

Not in this case Bob. This is what is known as a "wasted spark" ignition. The plug fires at the top (more or less) of the compression stroke to fire the fuel charge. It also fires again at the end of the exhaust stroke where there is nothing to burn - thus it's wasted. The system you describe has the trigger (points, pick up etc.) on the cam shaft which rotates at 1/2 engine speed - thus fires every other revolution. On most modern motorcycle engines the trigger is on the crank shaft, and fires once per revolution.

Each coil fires once per revolution.

Mine only reads about 13.6 at 4Krpm. Never had a problem.

You need to perform a leak down test to discover where it is leaking. It may be that those cylinders have valves that are too tight and $100 in parts and an afternoon will take care of it.

Put my vote down as "very skeptical".