MiCarl

http://b.cdnbrm.com/images/products/large/lights/hella_optilux_2020_dual_fog_driving_lights.jpg Hella Optilux 2020 Combo Rigged so they're fog with low beam, driving with high beam.

Mute button shouldn't affect intercom. Since you can hear the audio system the problem isn't with the ear phones. You could have a problem with the microphones though. Easiest way to check is to try your headsets on a known good system or their headsets on your system.

One problem you might have (I've done two in the last couple weeks) is with it broken off there is nothing to grab to pull the valve through. You'll likely have to pull them through the tire side of the wheel. After the bead is broken you should be able to cut enough rubber away (from the axle side) that the remnant falls into your hand.

The diaphragm lip pretty much only fits the carb body with the slide in the up position. This is true of the factory diaphragm too. The motion you describe with the lid is something we have to do with almost every carburetor that comes through the shop. It may be that without the diaphragm leaks it is running a bit rich. That would cause performance to drop off. After I replaced my diaphragms my MPG went to crap, and I eventually put in the skydoc needle shim kit to get back to reasonable fuel consumption.

I believe the hole should be "down wind" (toward the engine) from the needle. This would minimize effects of the hole on the atomization of fuel coming in around the needle jet. I doubt the hole position would effect the slide action much.

If you're a mechanical engineer you should understand this: The bottom of the diaphragm is exposed to atmospheric pressure - through a port to the air box. More correctly, exposed to the pressure in the air box. The top of the diaphragm, via the hole in the slide, is exposed to the pressure in the carburetor throat. Pressure is the way we measure potential energy of a fluid. When air from the air box enters the carburetor throat it accelerates - giving it kinetic energy. To keep the laws of nature in balance that energy has to come from somewhere - so the potential energy (pressure) decreases. That drop in pressure is communicated through the hole in the slide to the top of the diaphragm. The slide will rise in response to the pressure difference. As the slide rises the air under it slows down - increasing the pressure (potential energy). When everything (pressures and spring force) come into balance the slide will stop at a new position. If there are leaks in the diaphragm the pressure on top will be too high for the air speed and slide position. The slide doesn't rise as high as it should and restricts air flow and fuel to the engine.

Ok, found mine in another post: You might notice that what matters is pairs of terminals, not which connects to what. 85 and 86 connect to the original horn wiring. One of 30 or 87 goes to a fused (+) and the other goes to the air horn.

If you use a relay you can. I'm surprised you haven't burned up the horn switch running a pair of air horns on the stock circuit. I had a computer crash and cannot find my wiring diagram. Here is one Dingy posted in another air horn discussion: On my installation the 15A fuse is only connected to post 30 on the relay. The stock horns are removed and the original horn connectors go to posts 85 and 86. 87 is connected to the air horn (+) and the ground goes to where the mounting bracket attaches to the frame. I have a horn on each side and each has its own relay. They're both powered by a single 15A fuse. Use 16ga or thicker wire. My horns were weak with 18ga wire.

It's part of an in line fuse holder for glass fuse. Looks like the shroud is further down the wire. Not a stock holder - someone added something. There is another piece which isn't in the picture and may be gone altogether.

Or the WoLo Bad Boy, which seems to be the same thing. Use 2. Make brackets to attach to the frame where the original horn mount bolted up. You need to route separate power (stock horn wiring is too light) to the relays - which can be plugged right to the existing horn wiring to trigger them. You can ground the horn at the mounting bolt. The left and right brackets will not be symmetric, the mounting bolts on the horn are not centered.

I think it's unlikely to be fuel pump or filter. If the fuel wasn't getting to the carbs it'd draw the bowls down and it'd fall on its face. Make sure diaphragms are good and slides move freely. You could also try spark plugs - I've seen plugs that were just fine until you ran them under load, then misfire.

I disagree. If your buddy has something for sale that I'm looking for I'd like to hear about it. I often see people link stuff they see in their local craigslist or eBay when they think it might be of interest here. It's like having 1000 personal shoppers........

Think about the brake pedal on your 1st Gen, you pretty much had to use your toes. On your 2nd Gen you can put your leg into it - way more muscle power than you could apply to your old bike.

71 = 761 lbs. 77 = 908 lbs. Their literature says the 140/90-B16 is a 77. But notice the "B", that indicates a belted tire which typically has a higher load index. Their literature doesn't list a plain vanilla 140/90-16. Clearly the product and marketing departments dropped the ball on communications. Yamaha calls for a 71 load index. But they only list the carrying capacity of the motorcycle at about 350lbs. I know I exceed the 350 lbs. That's one of the things I like about the Kenda Kruz, it's a 77. BTW, because I know people are wondering, decoding your tire: 140/90-16 71H 140 = width in mm. 90 = height is 90% of width, or 126mm 16 = wheel diameter in inches (we wouldn't want to stay with one measuring system...........) 71 = load index. 71 = 761 lbs. H = speed index. H = 130 mph. So theoretically your tire, loaded at 761 lbs., would last for awhile at 130 mph. That presumes it's inflated to its maximum pressure, the road isn't too hot, etc. What we don't know is what "awhile" means at Full Bore, it could be 1 mile or 10,000..........

Ok, phone pictures not so good. 1st picture is the cover the clutch actuator is behind. Note the clutch cable coming in at top. 2nd picture is the lever and adjustment screw. There is a lock nut on the adjustment screw but the picture is fuzzy....... The clutch cable comes down from top center and engages with the arm. You might pull the cover and see what's going on as you pull the clutch lever. If the lever behind the cover is moving you might have a problem with the adjustment.

Puc - I see the load rating. What is the designation on the tire: 140/90-16 77H or 140/90-16 75H

Thanks for the write up. I offer Full Bore tires here in my little shop on the park. So far I've only had a few sport bikes try them. Their reviews have also been favorable. You don't say which Full bore tire you got, but I assume it was the M-66 Tour King? Their literature lists it as load index 77 (908 lbs.).

It appears to be reading 1/2 the actual rpm. I looked up the user manual for it. It's designed for a distributor type ignition and you set it for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders. I assume you've got it set to 4 cylinder which means it expects the coil to fire twice per revolution (it counts the firing and divides by 2 to come up with the rpm). Problem is your coil fires once per revolution. When it divides by 2 it comes up with 1/2 the actual rpm. I can envision a way to trick it by using some diodes and connecting it to two coils, causing it to see 2 sparks/revolution.

I believe the V-Star has a cable actuated clutch. First thing to do is make sure the cable isn't broken. If the handle snaps back the cable is good. There is a device inside the left rear engine cover that actuates the clutch push rod (off hand, I don't remember its name). It is adjustable so there is the correct free play between the actuator and push rod. There is a lock nut that should keep the adjusting screw from turning. It's possible that that stuff worked loose and there is too much play. I've got an 1100 V-star in the shop that had a shifting problem. When the new gasket arrives later this week I'll be opening it up again to install the gasket. I can take pictures then if you haven't got it sorted. (By the way, you don't need a gasket for the cover over the adjuster - it's the one behind it that I needed to open to fix the shifter).

Often times I can cram the nozzle between the end of the grip and the switch cluster. On the clutch side you can remove the switch cluster and get right under the grip if you need to. Never had to do anything like that on the throttle side.

I haven't had to remove any heated grips but have found that with conventional grips compressed air works wonders. It breaks the adhesive, stretches the grip and provides a cushion of air to float the grip off (think air hockey).

It varies quite a bit by state. Here in Michigan if it's more than six years old and has a value of less than $2,500 it's pretty easy (so long as it hasn't been reported stolen and there isn't a lien against it). I believe some states are even easier. I know that some are almost impossible. He needs to check with the DMV in whatever state he intends to title it.

At 90K miles it's almost broke in. Your issues are much more likely to be from neglect rather than mileage.

I want to point out that MiCarl does not own a Spyder nor exhibit anti-social tendencies. I suspect you mean MarCarl. Please make sure the jar of gremlins goes to the proper recipient.

If the leads read 0.4 ohms you need to subtract that from your test result. So you're measuring the coils at 0.3 ohms. BUT, given the amount of internal resistance in your meter I doubt it precise enough to give you a reading with the accuracy you are seeking. Since they all read the same, and assuming you checked for shorting to ground, I'd say you're safe to assume the stator is testing OK.