Marcarl

Personally I would just put the OEM pipes on and then go from there. The PO might not have re-jetted.

If the bearings feel stiff I would suggest they will be too tight and you will find the bike constantly wanted and going it's own way. There should be barely any noticeable drag as you move the bars, but there needs to be some. So the book calls for 5.1 foot lbs on the lower nut, but only finger tight on the next nut. Then when you torque the top nut down it will give just the right amount of pressure to the whole assembly including the nuts. When this procedure is done it's also said to loosen off the pinch bolts for the forks, that way any fork pressure or resistances are minimized.

No play is wanted, none! The steering head acts as a steering damper.

Keep up the good work and you'll love riding it.

Keep an eye on the Trump episode, there maybe more to come. The USA has fulfilled a lot of reruns from the old testament and may also get into similar for the new testament. You all have my attention. In this case Trump almost died, and years ago a soldier did as well, but just lost an ear,,,, temporarily.

That's a hard decision but am glad you made it. Great of you to give it away!

If it shimmy's at 75 then it will also do that at 50 or 30, but the right occasion hasn't been able to set it off just yet, You need to fix that!!

I can see one little glitch for you. 400 ml of oil will be the right amount for OEM springs, but not if the PO added Progressive coils, they take up more room and so require less oil. Best to do a fill from the top method or you'll blow the seals. All that really needs to be removed for easy of access are the handle bars and small grills. There is nothing untoward hiding below the top plug, it can all stay there. I would suggest though that you would be a happy rider if you did a total rebuild and added Progressive springs and properly cleaned our all the residue in the tubes.

I would guess the switch.

Seems that @RedRider membership has expired.

I would be thinking to take the kick stand switch apart to make sure that it is working right.

Welcome to the best site in the country. Let us be of help if we can.

That tool should work, shims should be available at your local MC dealer.

Next I would look for a loose connection, broken wire, bad ground. Start at the tach and see where it takes you. You can download a wiring diagram from the website here

Condolences to all who mourn.

Always a hard thing to loose somebody that's close. We will ask for comfort for those who need it. For those of us are still here, it's a good reminder that life is limited and eternity is forever.

Pull the plug wires one by one with the engine running, If all 4 are firing you should hardly notice that you disconnected one. If it starts to stumble you have another cylinder out. While you do this you can also check the spark consistency. It's also a good idea to replace all the ignition wires with new ones, I would go wire wire core rather than carbon core, make sure they are seated well in the coil towers.

It sue was.

What to keep in mind are a couple of things: Sidewall deflection and contact patch. Too much sidewall deflection leads to overheating and too little contact patch leads to loss of traction.

If you rode the F3 you might have thought different. 6' is too tall for an RS.

Looks to me like you could have got more corners out of the old ones, lots of tread there.

Best way to check something like this out is in the parts phish. Check both years and see if there is a difference in the part numbers, and what the differences are.. I don't think there would be a problem for your issue though.

Don't take this to the judge, but I have seen quite a few heavy weights on the bikes that easily pass the 400 mark, and some that haven't got close as well. They all seemed to make it home safely. Fact is I even have a picture of us 2 on the 85, and that put even us over 400. Now tire pressure is another story. Check the tires for the load limit and pressure limit. In your case I would go up to the pressure limit on a cold tire. That is your best bet to not over stress the tire. Tires are stamped with a max pressure and a max load. If you only run half load on the tire, then you can run less pressure, but half is not half. Full load, is full pressure.

Next is, check out the coils, I think it's #2 that governs that part of things, keep in mind that these machine will run very nice on 3 cylinders, so you might not even notice if you drop one.

That I haven't heard of at all. I thought used was just plug and play, but then I've been wrong before.