Marcarl

Oouchhh!! Guessing that it sitting for a length of time didn't help any either. Thinking you'll be happy to have it all cleaned up, and then be able to enjoy the ride once more.

Just for shets and giggles. Raise the bike up on a jack, making sure that the jack is perfectly level and the bike sits perfectly level on the jack, us a good level!!. Now set the front wheel to perfect center and keep it there by cross tying the handle bars so that the front wheel can't move, it needs to be perfect. Now take a string, butcher twine works well, and run it from the front wheel to the back wheel. The line should start and stop on the opposite side of where you run it. There can be no obstructions between the tires, so you'll have to be low enough to pass any issues, but the higher the better. Now the string should be touching 4 points on the tires on the measuring side. If not, then something is out. Adjust as necessary, but I wouldn't know how. Now that the bike is level you can also put a level on the wheels to check for plumb, but don't go by the tires, use the wheel only, because the tires will not be perfectly the same size at every point in their circumference.

I will be very interested in the opinion of others, I'm not very savvy when it come to rusty tanks and what to look for,,, but,,,, Yah you knew that was coming,,,, but,,,, looking at what I can see my thoughts are, there is rust there that is just waiting to plug a fuel filter, and if what I see is only a sampling then there is a great possibility that there could be just one little spot somewhere that is almost rusted through, which in short time will become a leak. Now how to fix that? well some have tried and been successful for a time, others have tried and had no success, but I will leave that up to them to tell the tales.

OHHHHH,,, so they are loaded your saying?

Are those tires tubeless?

Well,,,, welcome to you. Hope this site is everything you want it to be.

So does this sound happen when the engine is running, or when it's off, or both. If it happens when the engine is off it has to be electrical, so then it's time to chase down the circuits.

It might be helpful to determine where the sound is coming from exactly, front of engine, back of engine, upper, lower, etc. Another approach would be to remove fuses one at a time to discover the circuit that is causing it, and then hopefully trace it closer to the point. Also removing the gas tank and/or seat might help you to locate it.

Lookin not so bad!!! Need more close-up pictures though.

It can be difficult to determine a noise once it's recorded and then played back, but it sounds like it might be the fuel pump.

It might yell at yah for a brief moment if you get on it hard, not a problem really. The sensor is not a pressure sensor but rather an oil level sensor. So when you crank on it then the oil in the pan will slosh to the back and cause a red light. No problem.

Looking better all the time, can't wait to see it complete.

The oil in the air box comes from having too much oil in the crankcase. Should be no more than halfway up the sight glass.

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Great to hear,,, Thanks for posting.

Keep in mind: If it ain't broke, don't try fixing it. And you have no idea how much we like helping those who need it. Some of us were born to be doctors, some politicians, some lawyers, some plumbers, some builders, some electricians, and some mechanics. If we all work together we can easily do what one alone would find difficult. Oh yah, after we all built the house we also need somebody that can live in it.

Too many people think that screws are there to be played with (any screw), and seeing as the idle circuit has very little to do with the running of the engine as long as things remain clean and un-obstructed, there should be very little reason to 'play' with them, but if you do, it could make it somewhat miserable for a nice idling power plant. Now if things get gummed up or dirty, then it's time to dig deeper, hence there is a screw and the cap can be removed. Note: if the carbs were cleaned and the screws were not removed and the circuit cleaned, then you just might be running into what you are presently experiencing.

Idle circuit adjustment screws are hidden behind a sealing plug.

The top right bolt looks like somebody made an attempt to drill it. Wonder who broke those bolts?

Any idea of how much fluid was in the reservoir by the handle?

Lets hope that they are as pretty as they look.

One question I would have is: where are the heads of those bolts? and another: what were they doing inn the middle drive area for a clutch issue?

Put the carbs in place so that they are still half hanging out of position, so just safely kind of sitting there ready to go further into the bike. Now hook the cables being sure that the return cable is on the inside of the rod with the plastic bushing on it. Once hooked, move the carbs in place.

I can hear it now already: Didn't I tell you to go fishing,,,, annnnd what did you bring me???? NOTHING???? Just where did you go?? What WERE you doing???

If it runs awesome,,,, then,,, if it ain't broke, why fix it.