Pasta Burner

I don’t know if I’d keep it in the top box but my thought looking at some of those is to strap it to the luggage rack.

@saddlebum before I go chasing ghosts am I correct that the CB and Radio use the same antenna? I pulled the CB out thinking maybe the antenna wasn’t connected or maybe something else loose. All looked good albeit 30 years of dust. The radio comes in very well and none of the buttons seemed to stick anywhere. RX / TX function and display as it should. On the surface the problem seems to be an inability to adjust squelch. I’m guessing a POT or Riostat.?. Going to take the CB to work tomorrow and pull it apart.

Well that’s a million dollar idea right there! 🍻🍻

Ahhh I didn’t know you could monitor on CB through the speakers, that makes sense though considering it plays static just fine, I’m surprised though that I can’t tune anything in or seem to set the squelch to no static. I don’t think anything is stuck but it’ll be good to check I’ve found with sticky buttons rather than taking it apart it’s often effective to exercise them while squirting some contact cleaner or 90% IPA in there. blanket idea is good, never heard of that, usually just put it down for comfort.

I can’t believe a search in title doesn’t return anything to “CB”! Anyway this just started happening this season but my CB is displaying a faint 7 when off. I don’t use it as I understand it only works with the intercom, although it does play static through the speakers if turned on. If I turn it on it seems to display fine but when I turn it off it has a faint erratic 7. Played with it some tonight in the garage and it eventually went away but we’ll see for how long. Anybody else have this phenomenon?

@skydoc_17 thanks so much Earl for that detailed reply. I didn’t know the Progressive springs in effect did the same as the anti dive, I replaced them because the old ones kept bottoming out. I’ve read last year about the R1 upgrade but I needed to get a little more saddle time with it before I made any decisions. Also I wasn’t sure if it’s the nature of the beast to have slow braking or my bias or just basic physics considering my comparison is my 400lb bike with dual Brembo up front. Do you have a website to purchase and browse your stuff? How much is the delink kit? What years R1 caliper fit or what is the PN I should be looking for? leave the stock rear caliper? Or is there an upgrade too? the stock master cylinders are still used? Mine appear to be in great shape. thanks again! Tom

I’ve been wanting to take a multi day canoe trip for a few years now. I did it as a kid many times in the scouts, but now our canoe just hangs in the garage, I’ve gotta do some research on where to go around here. Don’t get the wrong idea, it’s still loud at my home urban and Military noise. F35 are NOT quiet 😵‍💫 windows open or closed they rattle and be prepared to pause or miss whatever your watching. But when a storm passes through and the mountain air feels so nice.

Just expressing my appreciation for freshness, did a little brake maintenance this morning then out for a borderline sweaty ride, came home, did laundry and made Mother’s Day wifey some grilled shrimp and steak. Cleaned up, took a nice hot shower and into fresh washed jammies and sheets. Windows open with crisp spring mountain air, and a tasty nightcap. More often it’s the little things that make the most out of life.

@cowpuc @skydoc_17 @saddlebum I don’t know yet if I have a desire to delink, does doing the delink also mess with the anti dive? I don’t know if it’s the linked brakes or the anti dive or both that gives the sensation of “grounding” / “squatting” when firm to hard braking with the pedal. Don’t know what to call it but it feels like the center of the bike is being pulled to the road to stop and I like it. The reason I bring up the braided lines lies on the front brake, last year when I got the bike the right front needed new pads and only one side of the caliper was functioning. Also the entire rotor was slathered with what appeared to be lithium grease. I took it apart and rebuilt it albeit with the same gaskets caused I was doing this on the fly. Cleaned everything up, new fluid flush and rode it all summer with no issues. A month or so ago after it had been sitting all winter I moved it to my other bay to install the progressive springs, no work was performed just moved it 50’ to the left. The next day I noticed a drop of fluid on the floor and traced it to the banjo on the front right caliper. Thinking it odd as it hadn’t been an issue I wiped it clean and gave the banjo an extra little tightening. No more drip. Put the new springs in and oil and some gas leak and other issues if you remember from some of my recent posts and am out and about riding. But my hand brake just feels week, not enough to keep me from riding or even feeling scared it just feels slow to stop. So I sprayed it all down and wiped it clean with no improvement, today I bled it and still it feels very firm on the lever but slow braking. I for the life of me can’t say if it’s any different than last year, but I feel like there should be more stopping power. This is at neighborhood speeds 2nd gear 40mph tops. thoughts?

Where did you all get the stainless lines? @saddlebum how would I search for a shop that makes custom brake lines? quick google didn't return any clear results in my area. I would assume to just buy lines the same length with appropriate fittings. Does anybody know what length the three lines are? Does @skydoc_17 sell the lines without the delink? thanks, Tom

Curious too. I haven’t put any effort into how it works but my 87 self cancels about 50% of the time.

This is what she looks like with the tongue attached. That’s 6’ 4” from the A-frame to the ball. Here’s a link https://trailerparts.com/1-1-2-square-galvanized-axle-1-800-lb-capacity-with-1-spindles.html to the axle with dimensions 57.5” hub to hub. As @Flyinfool mentioned a rule of thumb is 1.5 - 2x axle width from axle to ball. I plan to cut the tongue down in length, curious if there are any suggestions on how far? I’m thinking it might be smarter to get the decking down and wheel chock mounted first to determine axle placement with the intended load. Also thinking about adding a tongue box. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-62253.html I also think I decided on 2x6 Douglas Fir decking. Next I’m gonna have to figure out where to store this thing 😬. She won’t be a big trailer but I already have four vehicles stuffed into our three bay driveway and another on the street with two steeds in the garage. Note: I don’t plan on using that crossmember on the back, the original design had two crossmembers fore and aft where the rollers were mounted for the Hobie hulls. So the axle width sat between the hulls.

Glad you’re back in the saddle again! As Gene Autry or Aerosmith would say. Do yourself a favor, tuck away any pride and take an MSF course. I took a five year hiatus between business travel and moving but got back into it again last year. Dusting off my old steed and buying my Venture, I took an experienced rider course and was very thankful, it’s amazing what you forget. Might even get you some reprieve from the sisters 😀

When we picked up our hardwood flooring from Home Depot two years ago they refused to load both pallets into my F150. They made us take two trips. I’m not upset about that, because when I saw the sag when the forklift was free I agreed.

Sorry life happened and everything took a back seat. Remember this was assembled as a Hobie 16 trailer so the tongue is exceptionally long. It measures 8’ total, 2’ of which are inserted into the A frame up to the first cross member. The axle and fender placement are fully adjustable the springs are mounted to a bracket and you just choose which holes you want. hope to get back to it tomorrow. Thanks for the tips, will keep you posted. Initial front to back rail measurements after bending are dead even.

Forgot about that little bend. Some redneck Ingenuity and I’m back in business.

I didn’t remove all of the glaze, if you look close you’ll see a bunch of black squiggle tar snake looking marks under the patched area. I did that intentionally to make this only a temporary but hopefully make it through the season patch. It’s not a structural piece so it shouldn’t have much other than wind stress. I spent a handful of summers fiberglassing boat repairs in my teens so it’s often a go to product for me. Wish I had done a little more looking around on ABS repair last year before I decided to fiberglass my trunk cracks when I first got the bike 🥴.

Thanks @saddlebum I knew about the codes but what I was coming across is a lot of trailer tires in these smaller sizes don’t contain a speed code. Looks like I can get the same tire and rim setup with a 87mph and load C rating for $55. https://www.harborfreight.com/530-12in-tire-with-5-lug-rim-load-c-64235.html discount tire also carries them for $32 for just the tire so replacements should be readily available should the need arise. as a go back to avoiding registration, aside from the hassle and cost, when I lived in PA I was ultimately unable to register this trailer because I couldn’t prove ownership. Highlander didn’t put VIN plates or even serialize the trailers at that time. I don’t remember all of the hoops and bull I was going to jump through but it wasn’t pretty or cheap. If memory serves I was going to have to claim it as a home built trailer and get it inspected all of which cost bit by bit more and more. Ended up relocating shortly after finding all that out and haven’t thought about any of it till the other day when I started this thread. Not sure if Utah would give me the same runaround trying to title it and I don’t want to find out 😁

Or which tires 🙄 some things you’re better off not asking

That’s interesting, same concept but gives the support we all seemed to feel needed. I just looked into that, I think I’d be in the same place as far as speed rating. Our posted limits are 80 and there is rumor of 85 test zones. My plan is to put it together and take it to a local trailer dealer and see what they can offer. Also pretty much decided on expanded steel decking, so hopefully they can point me in the right direction for that locally. If I don’t like what they have to offer I’ve picked out a couple choices. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM3H390.html https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM31951.html I’m leaning toward the radial vs. bias ply. Thoughts on that? I see very limited off road use. But the bias is cheaper and can go faster.

I didn’t know super tech had a degreaser. Mine isn’t too bad after I used the autozone brand earlier this week but it could use some more attention and foaming is an additional benefit.

Sorry this is late but I use the HF ones. I have both the top two tenders and have never had an issue. Works great too to keep hooked up when doing maintenance / troubleshooting to avoid drain. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=battery maintainer

I was mistaken it’s 750 but your statement would still apply. I’m gonna take my chances as my interpretation of the rule is the trailer itself. https://dmv.utah.gov/vehicles/trailers

No idea. My last house had a 40’ish tower too. I used it to get better signal with my Clear wireless internet.

Yeah I’m debating if I want to put a channel on or maybe decking to double it up as a utility trailer. If I go the channel method I could easily hang it on my wall for storage. One thing to take into account is if I keep it under 500lbs I don’t have to register it. Bearings, axle and tires are brand new.