Pasta Burner

@Terry NB I’m not sure what your intending to show in the pics, I don’t recall a green connector (mine had a decent amount of aftermarket tinkering that I had to undo). To add to what @Patch said about stator issues and testing I had a battery drain issue last year that left me stuck for a few moments, I ended up soldering the wires from the stator to regulator rectifier and eliminating the connector to solve the problem. Here’s a link to that. I’m not familiar with the computer yet, but if the entire right side won’t fire it maybe points to a CDI issue. SOMEONE Please make sure I’m not advising wrong.

@videoarizona you don’t happen to know of an IPB for the CB unit do you? What I need is a PN for the squelch knob pot. The only indication was 503B but that isn’t specific enough.

Well kind of but in the full sense no. I wanted to ride and having that gaping hole wasn’t an option for me. I did confirm that the Squelch Pot is no longer functional. I bought a 50K pot from Radio Shack to confirm cb function and all checked out and Is working with the CB on. What I bought though is electrically correct but not physically compatible. So now I’m on the hunt for a replacement pot that fits the CB knob. As for the “7” displaying I haven’t gotten that far into it, I want to eliminate one variable at a time. So for now, I have the connectors disconnected And sealed. And the unit reinstalled. Thanks for checking in on it. This may be a wintertime fix.

How do you adjust the front then? Is it connects to the rear? Never seen one without CLASS so just curious.

The air suspension is controlled on the right side fairing above the CB controls. It only operates with the key in ACC position. There are fixes you can do to if it doesn’t come on or operate correctly, but start by seeing if it has life. air suspension will raise seat height. seat is bolted to the frame on each side underneath. the heel toe shifter I believe is a modification if it has been converted to floorboards rather then pegs. Use the heel to shift up and toe to shift down.

As for your clutch switch…mine (87) was only starting in N as well but just a few days ago I broke and fixed that problem. The switch has a spring actuated plunger activated my the clutch handle that was gummed up and not working. I took mine apart to clean. THIS IS IMPORTANT, inside the switch was pristine clean. I added some contact grease because I had it open but it was like factory inside. THE HOUSING BROKE DURING REASSEMBLY. So that sux. My point is start with some lubricant external and working the switch plunger before taking it apart. Here is an unrelated titled thread that gets you to where I ended up a few days ago. Oh also now the the clutch lever switch is “fixed” it’s really not, there is a gnats hair movement that will either let it start in gear or not, but these are the things that come with 30+ yo machines

That was my thought exactly. For a switch that is hopefully never used it obviously isn’t exercised and would likely be gummed up. Possibly giving intermittent results. Again just a thought.

I’m just throwing this out but have no personal experience. Isn’t there a tip over switch? Could that be something that got triggered and is maybe interfering? If it ran great before the drop I’d think it’s a variable worth looking at.

That’s a pretty good article. Utah definition of lane filtering differs from lane splitting. It can only be done between stopped cars at a traffic device. https://dld.utah.gov/lane-filtering/

@sleepy2 My apologies I should have clarified that I did this on my sport bike. The venture will be a progressive step in this practice. I actually last week almost knocked my sport over not realizing / paying attention to how wide the venture is in the back; just pulling her into the stable. My local PD put a Facebook post about it when it came about and @VentureFar there are a lot of posts being negative and aggressive toward bikes that Filter. I say instead of being uninformed or “jealous” go get a bike and join us

As far as anything you can do to prevent scratches all I can say is be careful. But to fix scratches I second touch up paint. And if I can find it I’ll be trying my first application of fluid film soon. I know I’m a newbie here but I interpret the Watering Hole as a place for all topics 😜

@Freebird Utah. It’s actually been legal for two years but the first year I wasn’t riding due to knee surgery and last year I completely forgot about it. I only remembered because the other day when in my cage I saw a rider do it. It appeared though that someone got mad at him for doing it because I saw some hand gestures. @Motorcycle Mike that’s the exact reason to do it and why it’s encouraged. A large purpose is to protect the rider from being rear ended by distracted and stupid drivers. The biggest problem I see with it is lack of education and awareness. Like I said even as a rider I went a whole season because I forgot. The local news did a clip on it a month or so ago but it only focused in that it’s legal and to expect it. They NEVER mentioned WHY! So cagers think a bike is just cutting in line and they get aggressive. It’s a well known fact telling someone what to do and WHY is tenfold more effective than just barking an order.

So I exercised my right to lane filter for the first time today. I’ve gotta say it’s a very odd feeling the first few time. Luckily I did’t encounter any aggressive cages. Honestly I’m so used to not being able to filter I often forget it’s legal and encouraged.

Well lemmi say this, there are certain things in life you only do once. Trusting the neutral light in my Duc is one of them. Now it’s become muscle memory to pull the clutch when starting, then hold the brake when releasing the clutch. At least now if you run out of gas you can get a few more miles driving it on the starter

Thanks! What you’d think was an easy fix turned into what you had. Mine was not cracked just gunked up and the spring wasn’t pushing the plunger efficiently. Cleaned it up greased it and the housing cracked like you described when reassembling. So now it’s held together with electrical tape zip ties to hold the tape when it gets hot and gummy. It’s crude but it works.

Link to the bike? Price? Can’t give advice without details. That being said I bought my 87 with 36k in what I would call great condition. Minimal plastic damage, ran good, stopped, needed tires. For $1800. A year ago.

Thanks @luvmy40 this really ended up being the starting point after all due to your posting this. It was the smoking gun. I still need to chase the left side clutch switch issue that @RDawson mentioned. But for the night I’ve had my fun chasing gremlins and enjoying beers in the garage. I can sleep easy now knowing the problem is identified. Thanks also to @dingy for the thorough write up!

Ok figured that out too with this thread. Still start switch. Woooohooo! Fixing and keeping these things on the road is pretty fun!

So the start switch was certainly the issue with the no start. Gonna have to source a new one, it’s cleaned and working now. Still stumped on the lack of headlight. I’m getting 1.23v low and 2.21v high beam. Even swapped in a spare bulb. Checked fuse and swapped it too for good measure. Headlight fault doesn’t trigger either but does when bulb is unplugged.

Ok I found this thread.

How in the world do you get the switch assembly apart! It’s stuck to the throttle cables and I can’t figure out how to detach

Thanks all! I’ll keep you posted on how I make out chasing the issue. Pop started it this morning and got it home. Headlight still not coming on, I know it was working during the speaker install because I was messing with the adjustment. Bypassing the interlocks to the starter sounds like a good place to start then work my way back.

This makes me think two issues. Clutch switch problem, but still start button switch problem. We’ll play with it at work tomorrow. One of my customer/ coworkers lives a block away so regardless we can truck it home tomorrow. luckily my building is an old WW2 warehouse that has railroad loading docks and concrete ramp so it’ll be an even load into the truck, and she’s safe on base overnight.

I didn’t notice if the kickstand indicator went away when I put it up, but it didn’t respond up or down in neutral. You do inspire a good question…and also confuse me a little. All of these interlocks are new to me so bear with me. What would the clutch lever have to do with the kickstand? also on a clutch lever switch note, there is one? and where? I think you may be on to something. If the kickstand is UP and the bike is IN gear and the clutch is pulled in should the bike start? I thought it used it but recently it will only start if the trans is in neutral. also I’m just putting this out as I’ve noticed very recently I’m getting intermittent neutral indications weather it’s green light or N on dash, is that normal?. I’m used to this with my Duc so I thought nothing of it, but my Duc has no interlock.